Skiing in Sölden, Austria: A Curated Guide (& James Bond 007 Elements visit)

last updated: November 2023

Solden ski resort guide



There are many ski resorts built with purpose, but few with vision. Avoriaz was created with the dream of a playground for the young and the young at heart; a car-free place where snow sports are celebrated and enjoyed care-free. And the dream has come true. Ever since the 1960s, the big draw is, of course, the high altitude ski area: the pistes of Avoriaz itself, but also the wider Portes du Soleil, one of the biggest ski domains in the world. However, the skiable town turns heads too. Avoriaz’s seemingly eccentric design was actually founded on the principles of sustainable development before that was even a thing. And it is eager to maintain that core strength.

Call it cyclical trends and mid-century nostalgia. Or just the appeal of fresh powder and pistes for days in one of the most renowned areas of the Alps. We loved our time in Avoriaz and can’t wait to go back and explore more.

Slide 1
AVORIAZ SKI RESORT
SKI RESORT STATS
Ski resort doodle 500

SKI LIFTS: 35 (Avoriaz only*)

PISTES: 50 [78km / 48 miles] (Avoriaz only*)

BEGINNER (green): 8
INTERMEDIATE (blue): 25
ADVANCED (red): 13
EXPERT (black): 4

SNOWPARKS: 4 (Avoriaz only*)

*Avoriaz sits in the middle of the enormous Portes du Soleil ski area, comprising 12 ski resorts with 600km of pistes & 208 lifts! Plenty of these are only a few chairlifts away from Avoriaz.

ALTITUDE & LOCATION
Altitude doodle 500

A high altitude resort in the heart of the enormous Portes du Soleil ski area. The Swiss-French border is only two chairlifts away from the town’s centre! Sitting at 1,800m (5,900ft), with lower slopes at 1,100m (3,600ft) and rising all the way up to 2,280m (7,480m), Avoriaz is perfect for early or late ski trips and great throughout the season.

Avoriaz not only has links (through chairlifts / bubbles or quick bus rides) to the French resorts of Morzine, Les Gets and Châtel, but also to the Swiss resorts of Champery, Les Crosets, Champoussin and Morgins.

GETTING THERE
Get There doodle 100

Closest airport:
Geneva airport (1h 45min drive)

SKI RESORT AT A GLANCE

Staying in Avoriaz is probably the best way to explore Portes du Soleil. However, the resort itself can keep you busy for a while, especially beginner and intermediate skiers. The purpose built town’s architecture is quite distinctive. It’s also car free and skiable. Perfect for families but there is après ski to please everyone.

RESOURCES
Avoriaz town view sunny

SKI RESORT OVERVIEW: AVORIAZ – PORTES DU SOLEIL

Avoriaz is a purpose built, ski-in / ski out town located in the heart of the Portes du Soleil, one of the largest ski areas in the world. Portes du Soleil encompasses 12 resorts in France and Switzerland with 600km (370 miles) of slopes suitable for all levels, and 208 lifts. It would take weeks to explore this enormous snowy playground! However, there are three things that set Avoriaz apart: the ski area of Avoriaz itself, its links to most of the other ski resorts and the distinctive town.

The town of Avoriaz is the ski resort base and sits at a lofty 1,800m (5,900ft). A few of the slopes of the resort drop to 1,100m (3,600ft) whereas chairlifts rise all the way up to 2,280m (7,480ft). It goes without saying that, due to the high altitude, Avoriaz is a great option for a ski trip in early winter or late spring and, of course, throughout the season.

The varied terrain of Avoriaz is perfect for beginners and intermediate skiers. This is an ideal resort for families since nursery (green) slopes are located in the town centre. Furthermore, adult beginner skiers will enjoy skiing in the nearby network of gentle but longer tree-lined pistes. Intermediate skiers, on the other hand, will definitely enjoy the plethora of high altitude blue and red pistes.

SKIING IN AVORIAZ – PORTES DU SOLEIL:
AN INTERMEDIATE SKIER’S PERSPECTIVE

When it comes to blue (intermediate) and red pistes (advanced), the terrain variety of Avoriaz and Portes du Soleil will definitely enable you to have a challenge but also relax and have fun. Narrow and wide pistes, smooth or with moguls, runs at lower or very high altitude… There is so much choice.

The skiing starts from your doorstep. You can explore Avoriaz itself, head to Châtel or cross the border to explore the Swiss resorts of Les Crosets, Morgins and Champéry. If you don’t mind a quick bus ride, Morzine also has a great network of blue and red pistes.

The great thing about Avoriaz is that along with a red, there is also a blue piste down from most chairlifts. So, if the weather is not great or you just want to take it easy, you will be able to relax and enjoy the ride! You are on holiday, after all!

SKIING IN AVORIAZ – PORTES DU SOLEIL: A BEGINNER SKIER’S PERSPECTIVE

There are so many green (nursery) slopes in Avoriaz! This is truly a great place to take your first turns on the snow. In low visibility conditions, they form quite the haven too, as they are located at slightly lower altitudes.

Start with Dromonts and Ecole button lifts in town; they are, literally, a two minute walk away from a hot chocolate break! Then, continue to ski around Proclou and Seraussaix, towards Morzine. There is a variety of long, beautiful tree-lined green and easy blues there to practice and have fun.

Skis doodle 500x300

FOR A TYPICAL TRIP OF 6 FULL SKI DAYS: IS THERE ENOUGH SKIING IN AVORIAZ?

For sure. You could spend a month here, skiing every single day! Even super adventurous & experienced skiers who ski all day, non-stop will have new pistes to explore every single day (weather permitting, obviously!). Start with Avoriaz, head towards the Swiss resorts, go north to Chatel or head to Morzine and Les Gets. Details about how the resorts are linked are covered below.

Avoriaz sun valley
Avoriaz sunny slopes

FRENCH-SWISS BORDER CROSSING

More excitingly, the Swiss-French border is only two chairlifts away from the centre of the town of Avoriaz! Within a day of skiing, you can easily explore one or more of the Swiss resorts of Champery, Les Crosets, Champoussin and Morgins, even if you don’t stray far from easier (blue) runs.

The French-Swiss border crossing also holds a special surprise for expert skiers. Those who feel no fear will have a blast going down ‘The Swiss Wall’, a run frequently named as one of the scariest in the world. Ski Club of GB leader Chris Tomlinson writes in his blog post that the Swiss Wall is ‘…so steep that you can’t see the face of the slope while standing at the top. It’s often covered in moguls the size of VW Beetles’. If you chicken out, catch the Chavanette chairlift and you’ll be on time for Swiss fondue!

Avoriaz Swiss border
Avoriaz sign post

SKIING FROM AVORIAZ TO MORZINE

Interestingly, even though Avoriaz is often marketed as a sister resort to Morzine, there is no chairlift-only option to reach the slopes of Morzine. Nevertheless, it is not hard to get there.

One option is to ski down through the nursery slopes of Proclou to the Super Morzine gondola. From the gondola drop-off point, it is either a short walk to the nearest lift or you can wait for 10 mins or so and take ‘Le Petit Train’, a Disneyland-esque train which also gets you to the edge of the pistes of Morzine.

The other option to reach Morzine is to ski down the blue run Crot to Prodains. From there, take the free bus which quickly enough will get you to about 50m from the Pleney bubble.

Avoriaz the stash
Avoriaz snowy forest

WHAT CAN NON-SKIERS DO IN AVORIAZ?

There is a variety of other winter activities in Avoriaz like Nordic ski, tobogganing and snowshowing. We only skied so I cannot really comment on these, but, if you’d like to know more, head over to the official Avoriaz website

As I will explain more in the ‘How to get around’ section of this post, a great advantage that Avoriaz offers is that non-skiers and skiers can easily meet up for lunch, a quick break or a toboggan ride in town! During our trip to Avoriaz, my fiancé’s brother and his wife were able to take turns between skiing with their older children and looking after their young baby. They were also able to meet up throughout the day. Avoriaz has been conceived and planned as a resort in such way that it definitely makes situations such as these a lot more feasible.

Avoriaz cliffs view
Avoriaz La falaise

THE TOWN OF AVORIAZ & HOW TO GET AROUND

THE STORY OF AVORIAZ

Avoriaz is the creation of three young men who, during the 1960s, dreamt, took risks and ultimately created a bold and unique ski resort. Olympic ski champion Jean Vuarnet was the one who envisioned and set the wheels in motion for a purpose built ski resort above his hometown, Morzine. He later conceded the project to Parisian property developer Gérard Brémond who funded architect Jacques Labro. Then, the two men got to work. Town planning and architectural design were the first items on the agenda.

While there are many towns today that discourage vehicular traffic, back in the ’60s, a ban on cars could have been a showstopper. At the heyday of the almighty engine, it must have taken tremendous confidence of conviction to go through with that intent. As a result, a car-free playground for adults and children has been created, to be shared amongst horse-drawn sleighs, skiers and pedestrians. We loved that about Avoriaz.

The architecture of Avoriaz is certainly a conversation starter. The buildings have been designed to fit the jagged relief, optimising sun exposure and mountain views. Their facades are covered in cedar wood tiles, an homage to the traditional rooftops of Savoie. All in all, while Avoriaz’s building stock does not appeal to everyone, the town’s continuous innovation with regards to sustainable development is widely acknowledged. A quick Google search for eco-friendly ski trip and you’ll see Avoriaz’s name pop up.

Avoriaz sunset town view
Avoriaz children area

HOW TO GET AROUND

Skiing and walking are the best ways of getting around car-free Avoriaz; the roads and pavements are covered in snow! The town is fairly small, so it doesn’t take more than 20mins to get anywhere. Some of the walking is done uphill. Most of the skiing is downhill; to be honest, there is quite a bit of poling on the flat (while in town)! You can also toboggan in quite a few places too! Too tired for all that? Get on one of the horse-drawn sleighs operating in a taxi-like manner.

While in Avoriaz, you are never too far from a chairlift. The whole of the resort is theoretically ski-in / ski-out, though we did find ourselves carrying our skis from time to time. As innovative as the town planning was, we didn’t manage to ski straight into bed! Nevertheless, the topography is gentle enough to enable even beginner skiers to reach the chairlifts stress-free.

NO ROADS, NO PAVEMENTS -HOW TO GET (YOURSELF & YOUR LUGGAGE) TO YOUR ACCOMMODATION IN AVORIAZ

Upon arrival to Avoriaz, your car will drop you off at a building which kind of looks like a bus terminal. There are no buses around, though, only snow vehicles and horse drawn carriages! Speak to one of the staff in the yellow vests (they speak English) and they will put you on the list for the next available snowplough ride to your accommodation (or close enough). We waited for about 15-20 min for that. At the time of writing, the cost for a one-way transfer with the snowplough is 12€ per family (max. 5 persons).

On our last day in Avoriaz, we asked at the hotel what we needed to do in order to get back to the terminal where we would meet our taxi driver. The receptionist nonchalantly told us to put our luggage in front of the hotel about 30mins beforehand; a snow plough would pick us up at some point! I know… We didn’t think it would work either, but somehow it did! That snowplough, though, was more crowded than a London tube carriage on a Monday morning…

Note that snowploughs don’t take reservations. Also, I don’t think there are any other similar private vehicles apart from the horse drawn carriages. I imagine that this is to avoid creating the same thing that they are trying to ban: traffic.

Oh, and one last thing. You might need to double check the weather resistance on your luggage… As I mentioned earlier, one of the best parts of Avoriaz is that there is snow, everywhere! No roads, no pavements on sight. Only skiers, pedestrians, snowploughs, horse drawn carriages and toboggans!

Avoriaz snow plough
Avoriaz central station

WHERE TO STAY IN AVORIAZ?

HOTEL DES DROMONTS 4*

During our week in Avoriaz, we stayed in Hotel des Dromonts, arguably the most emblematic hotel in the area. This is the resort’s very first building; a mark of Avoriaz’s creation, inaugurated at Christmas 1966. The hotel’s architecture is bold yet cosy, futuristic yet nature driven; the building looks like a huge fir cone. The avoidance of orthogonal lines creates a playful space; we loved that it has been revisited in a vintage, alpine chic manner in line with its 1960’s character.

My fiancé and I are both architecture aficionados so having breakfast, dinner, drinks at the bar or board game sessions by the fireplace in the lobby was something we were really looking forward to after a day on the slopes. However, we did find our room small (we stayed in the classic room). Despite its thoughtful design, we struggled to get our gear and luggage out of the way. The bathroom was nicely sized, though, something we always appreciate.

On the flip side, I would like to stress the incredible value for money of the half-board accommodation option. All our three course dinners in the hotel’s two restaurants were lovely. We particularly enjoyed the scrumptious fondue Savoyarde in ‘Le Festival’ as well as the luxurious Valentine’s Day tasting menu in ‘Les Enfants Terribles’.

Last but not least, the spa was the ideal way to end the day. The serene space offers plenty of services such as massage or hammam sessions. The highlight for us was the outdoor timber hot tub and sauna!

Overall, staying in Hotel des Dromonts enriched our ski trip to Avoriaz. It made us feel like we were guests of its legendary creators Gérard Brémond and Jacques Labro, in 1960’s France; I will take evocative over anything else.

Avoriaz Hotel des Dromonts
Avoriaz Dromonts lounge
Avoriaz Dromonts lobby
Avoriaz Dromonts room
Avoriaz Dromonts hot tub
Avoriaz Dromonts sauna
Avoriaz Dromonts spa
Avoriaz Dromonts breakfast
Avoriaz Dromonts fondue
Avoriaz Dromonts bar

ADDITIONAL RECOMMENDATIONS FOR HOTELS IN AVORIAZ

During my research for accommodation in Avoriaz, the following hotels / apartments also caught my eye. Similar to Hotel des Dromonts, these are premium options; after all, we are in the French Alps, kind of an all or nothing destination, in my experience.

Avoriaz Mil8 hotel
MIL8 HOTEL, AVORIAZ

WHERE TO EAT & APRÈS SKI IN AVORIAZ?

ON THE SLOPES

AVORIAZ SKI DOMAIN

If you find yourself in the Avoriaz ski area around lunchtime, you can easily head over to the town for lunch. Scroll down to the ‘In Town’ section for my recommendations.

Additionally, a great option for a mid-ski break is the Ice Bar at Village Igloo, on the blue Arare piste. We had a coffee on the tree-lined outdoor terrace which was lovely. The treat, however, was the igloo where the bar is entirely sculpted from ice!

Avoriaz igloo
VILLAGE IGLOO, AVORIAZ

ON THE SWISS-FRENCH BORDER

Cookie Café Mossettes, stationed at the top of the Mossettes chairlift, offers views for days and a cool gastro pub vibe at nearly 2,300m (7,550ft). With its modern dishes, this is a great stop before delving further into the Swiss pistes.

LES LINDARETS

There are many restaurants in the plateau at the bottom of the chairlifts in Les Lindarets. Skiing (or walking) the fairly flat narrow trail south (follow the signs), will lead you roughly half way to Ardent and to a little traditional high street filled with old chalets transformed into restaurants, all of them featuring terraces. Some of the most notable are:

  • La Crémaillère: perfect for traditional Savoyard dishes.
  • La Terrasse: European cuisine; the owner is Corsican so there is a selection of charcuterie and wine from that region.
  • La Ferme des Lindarets: Italian cuisine.
  • Le Chaudron: traditional Savoyard dishes.

PLAINE DRANSE

One of the most popular restaurants throughout Portes du Soleil is Chez Babeth, a chocolate box chalet with low ceilings and cosy alpine spaces. If you are lucky, you may even catch Babeth, the larger than life host, singing and entertaining guests as the afternoon wears on!

Avoriaz Cremaillere restaurant
LA CREMAILLERE, LES LINDARETS

IN TOWN

There are plenty of restaurants in Avoriaz, most of them serving traditional Savoyard dishes as well as the holly trinity of pizza, pasta and burger. There are also a fair few more upscale options. My favourite ones, and the best representatives of the different types of restaurants available, are the following. Book in advance during high season.

EASYGOING

Le Refuge Restaurant is located on Promenade du Festival, Avoriaz’s main street, and combines contemporary and traditional Savoyarde cuisine. A combination of modern but cosy spaces and a large terrace makes this a great option for both snowy and sunny days.

Le Chapka, in La Falaise quarter, is an upscale version of a sports bar. Despite the large screens showing live sport, the spacious interior is quite cosy and the terrace quite busy. From burgers and pizza to raclette and fondue, this is a versatile restaurant suitable for everyone.

Café Le Fantastic, situated on Promenade du Festival, is a brasserie, crêperie and music bar serving food and drinks all day. We particularly liked the option of having a lighter, quicker meal on the terrace. We also enjoyed picking up crêpes from the little hut and devouring them on the nearby sun loungers or our cosy hotel lobby.

Avoriaz Cafe Fantastic
CAFE LE FANTASTIC, AVORIAZ

CHIC & CHEERFUL

As I mentioned previously, all of our dinners in the two restaurants of Hotel des Dromonts, located in Place des Dromonts, were scrumptious. The ambience is wonderfully nostalgic in both Les Enfants Terribles (serving contemporary French cuisine) and Le Festival (serving Savoyard dishes). We loved browsing through the 1960’s black and white photographs of skiing in Avoriaz on the walls.

La Cabane 1800 in Place Centrale, probably provides the most luxurious interiors and ‘la plus chic’ terrace in town. We just had a coffee on the terrace as we prefer traditional, hearty food while on the mountains. However, according to my sources, it is worth visiting if you are interested in a gourmet, upscale selection, sushi included.

Avoriaz La Cabane terrace
LA CABANE 1800, AVORIAZ

LA FOLIE DOUCE AVORIAZ

No introductions needed. Whether it’s a DJ party or a fancy meal in La Fruitière, La Folie Douce always delivers in their usual glamorous style. The great thing about the Avoriaz branch is its location at the edge of the town (in Plateau); no need to worry about post party skiing!

Avoriaz La Folie Douce
LA FOLIE DOUCE, AVORIAZ

FOR AN EVENING TIPPLE OR TWO

Last but not least, if you fancy an evening tipple, head towards Mil8 Hotel, Hotel des Dromonts or La Cabane. In the mood for a more lively scene? Le Shooters is open until 2am…

Avoriaz La Brasserie

WHERE TO SHOP FOR SKI GEAR IN AVORIAZ?

Experiencing chairlift closures or looking for a ski gear upgrade? There are plenty of shops in Avoriaz that can make it worth your while, from big chains found in any European resort to independent local ski shops. Amongst those, two of the rarest finds (unless you live in France) are Fusalp and Ski Shop Avoriaz.

The Fusalp boutique in Avoriaz is located super centrally in Promenade du Festival; the stylish window displays are bound to catch your eye. This is a French ski wear brand, born in the Alps in the 1950s, which to this day uniquely combines technical innovation with classic French style. To be honest, the quality and distinct style is indeed reflected in the price point; they even have a ski wear collaboration with luxury fashion brand Chloé. However, ski wear is an investment. Maybe it is worth spending a bit more to buy something that will make you happy for a lot longer?

Ski Shop Avoriaz is located right across the road from Hotel des Dromonts (in Place de Dromonts); I popped in there for a quick look one day. I was really impressed with the selection of famous brands as well as rarer finds, mostly lesser known high quality French ski wear brands. It is well worth the visit if you are in the area. It is also a super convenient ski hire location if you are staying in Hotel des Dromonts.

Avoriaz chair lift
Avoriaz birds eye view

WHAT TO PACK FOR A SKI TRIP TO AVORIAZ?

Isn’t packing for a ski trip a delight? I love it! If you need some new ski gear, you are a skiing newbie or you just like packing guides (my guilty pleasure), then, check out my ski packing list as well as my après ski packing tips.

Avoriaz Proclu ski area
Avoriaz town horse carriage

PLANNING YOUR SKI TRIP TO AVORIAZ

HOW TO GET TO AVORIAZ?

The closest airport to Avoriaz is Geneva International Airport (85km / 53miles). From there, quite a few bus and shuttle companies make the approx. 1h 45min drive to the resort. Don’t forget that landing in Geneva will mean checking and implementing visa requirements for two countries (but so does skiing across the border, technically!).

The other major airport nearby is Lyon St Exupéry (230km / 143miles). This is where we landed from London but, even though it is a nice airport, I would not recommend it for Avoriaz or any of the Portes du Soleil ski resorts for that matter. The reason for this is that there are no dedicated buses or shuttles serving the ski domain (which we only realised after booking our flights). So, we had to book a normal taxi to get there. As you can imagine, a 3h taxi drive (one way) in France costs an absurd amount of money… I cannot stress this enough, don’t be tempted by cheaper airfare to Lyon. Fly to Geneva instead.

Note that Chambery airport is also close by (137km/85miles). However, it mostly operates with charter flights, so I doubt that you can fly there if you are travelling independently. Unless you travel on a private jet that is!

Lastly, there may be ways to get to Avoriaz by train. Sadly, it was too difficult for us to do so from London. Nevertheless, if you are travelling from within France or Switzerland, it’s definitely worth checking it out.

CHANGEOVER DAYS

Saturdays are changeover days in most European ski resorts. The increased traffic that this causes is multiplied by a factor of, say, three, because there is only one road into and out of Avoriaz and access to vehicles is regulated. Cars can only drop off, pick up or head to the parking area.

We travelled from Lyon airport to Avoriaz on a sunny Saturday in February. Granted it was the start of school holidays in three regions in France and England*. It took us 6 hours to get there. SIX HOURS. We spent the last 30min on a stand still waiting to get into Avoriaz. You have been warned.

*If you are unfamiliar with the nuances of British culture, the British pretend to hate anything French but, in actuality, they love holidaying in France; we are talking for a full on exodus.

IS AVORIAZ SUITABLE FOR A SHORT SKI BREAK?

Honestly, I don’t know. Even if you are flying to Geneva, the closest airport, the transfer time from there is not the shortest. Furthermore, you will only be able to explore a fraction of the available terrain which might give you serious FOMO!

On the other hand, if you are driving or taking the train from somewhere close, popping to Avoriaz for a couple of days seems feasible. I would, however, recommend avoiding a Saturday morning arrival, due to the increased traffic to get to the resort (especially at the peak of the season).

I should note that a big argument in favour of a short ski break is the ski-in / ski-out capability of the town. No matter where you (within Avoriaz) you will be able to hit the slopes in no time at all.

Let me know in the comments if you have done a short ski break in Avoriaz!

Avoriaz town streets
Avoriaz town deckchairs

FINAL THOUGHTS

There are many reasons why I’d recommend a ski trip to Avoriaz. It is located in the centre of one of the biggest ski areas in the world and you get to ski literally across the border of two countries! Its high altitude makes it a safe bet for snow sure holidays even in the margins of the season. The terrain is varied but there is an easy way down the mountain from almost all chairlifts. The car-free village, fully covered in snow, provides a carefree, Disneyland-like vibe. The architecture might not be everyone’s cup of tea but it is certainly considerate, unique and consistent. The cuisine from Savoie is omnipresent and delicious and there are always choices for a simple meal or an elegant affair.

I find that there is a negative nuance to the term ‘purpose built’, especially when it comes to European ski resorts. Avoriaz hones that in a positive way setting its vision as a sustainable destination while also providing an understated playground for many happy moments in the majestic Alps.


This is not a sponsored post & I am not affiliated with any of the hotels, restaurants or organisations mentioned.

last updated: November 2023

Solden ski resort guide



You may know Sölden because of the Big 3: Three skiable mountains with elevations higher than 3,000m (9,840ft). Or you may recognise Sölden from Spectre, the James Bond film, shot on location as well as the futuristic 007 Elements exhibition nestled high in the mountains. You may also have heard of the DJ parties and dancing on wooden tables. I can go on and on and on. Sölden really does not need an introduction. This Austrian ski resort has made a name for itself long ago. For those of you seeking world class skiing in a setting filled with modern amenities and a sprinkle of some good old Austrian hospitality… you are in for a treat! 

During our stay in neighbouring Obergurgl-Hochgurgl ski area, we ventured to Sölden for 3 non-consecutive days of skiing; we also visited the James Bond themed exhibition, 007 Elements. Here’s how to make the most of your time in the ski slopes of Sölden.     

Slide 1
Sölden SKI RESORT
SKI RESORT STATS
Ski resort doodle 500

SKI LIFTS: 31

PISTES: total 144km (89miles)

EASY (blue): 70km (44miles)
INTERMEDIATE (red): 45km (28miles)
DIFFICULT (black): 27km (17miles)

SNOWPARKS / FUNSLOPES: 2

ALTITUDE & LOCATION
Altitude doodle 500

Large resort rising from 1,350m (4,430 ft) to 3,340m (10,960 ft): 3 mountains above 3,000m (9,840ft), 2 glaciers and plenty of super long runs connected with state-of-the-art mountain infrastructure. Perfect for early or late ski holidays and great throughout the season.

GETTING THERE
Get There doodle 100

Closest airport:
Innsbruck airport (1h 15min drive)

Closest train station:
Ötztal Bahnhof (40min drive)

SKI RESORT AT A GLANCE

A world class ski resort with a huge variety of runs. Great for beginners & advanced skiers. Plenty of restaurants, bars and après ski to please everyone. We saw quite a few families, but the resort does attract plenty of party goers due to its famous DJ sets on the slopes. James Bond fans will have a blast at the 007 Elements exhibition.

RESOURCES

SKI RESORT OVERVIEW: SÖLDEN

At an altitude between 1,350m (4,430ft) and 3,340m (10,960ft) with 2 glaciers, 31 mountain lifts and 144km (89 miles) of pistes, Sölden is one of the most renowned ski resorts in the Austrian Alps. And that may very well mean one of the best in the world.

Apart from the après parties and the sleek James Bond exhibition, what really stands out are the three skiable peaks. All three rise to elevations higher than 3,000m (9,840ft). From there, you can admire the stunning mountain views before skiing all the way back to town. Furthermore, with its high altitude and glacial skiing, Sölden opens each year in October and doesn’t close until late May.

In Sölden, there is something to please everyone. And a lot of it. There are plenty of pistes suitable for beginners, intermediate and advanced skiers and boarders. There is loads of après ski too, from boisterous or tacky to gourmet fine dining, luxury spas and winter activities. Lastly, significant investments are constantly being made for upgrades in skiing infrastructure but also the quality of the building stock. From high tech gondolas to impressive viewing platforms and ultra modern restaurants, Sölden is unapologetically not a cosy Austrian village but a world class ski resort.

SKIING IN SÖLDEN:
AN ADVANCED SKIER’S PERSPECTIVE

Sölden is home to the ‘Big 3’. Three skiable mountains over 3,000m (9,840ft): Schwarze Schneide, Gaislachkogl and Tiefenbachkogl with all summits easily accessible by ski lifts.

Experienced skiers can enjoy breathtaking views from all three mountain peaks in one exhilarating day of skiing with the BIG 3 Rally ski tour. The route is about 50km (31 miles) long, taking in more than 10,000m (32,800ft) of vertical drop. It allows for an overview of almost the whole resort in one (intense) day of skiing.

Start in the morning with skiing from the Giggijoch valley station to the Rettenbach glacier. The first BIG 3 goal is to reach Schwarze Schneide. Next stop, Tiefenbachkogl and its panoramic rocky path. BIG 3 athletes get back via the Rettenbach glacier and follow the ski route to the Gaislachkogl valley station. On the summit of Gaislachkogl, the last of the BIG 3, a big reward awaits: a gourmet dining experience at IceQ restaurant, shooting location of James Bond Spectre, at an altitude of 3,048m (10,000 ft).

It takes four hours for professional athletes to do the entire circuit. How long would it take you?

SKIING IN SÖLDEN:
A BEGINNER SKIER’S PERSPECTIVE

At the time of visiting Sölden, I was still fairly new to skiing, so I only ventured to reds selectively. The great thing about Sölden is that there are plenty of blues at high altitude. So, everyone can enjoy the awe-inspiring views. Start at the sunny slopes at Giggijoch which are really wide and fairly traffic-free, despite the popularity of the resort! From there, access to the vast open areas of Rettenbach and Tiefenbach glaciers is easy. 

To be honest, my boyfriend and I were, at the time, based in neighbouring Obergurgl-Hochgurgl ski area. We originally thought that a quieter resort like that would be better for me than busy Sölden. However, upon visiting Sölden, I found skiing there fun, easy and varied. That is why we visited Sölden 3 times during our stay in Obergurgl where the weather was quite bad.

Skis doodle 500x300

FOR A TYPICAL TRIP OF 6 FULL SKI DAYS: IS THERE ENOUGH SKIING IN SÖLDEN?

Absolutely. Even super adventurous & experienced skiers who can cover a lot of terrain in a day will find new pistes to explore every day. Nevertheless, in the unlikely event that you do wish for a change of scenery or the weather is not great in Sölden, you can take the 20min ski bus to nearby Gurl (Obergurgl & Hochgurgl) ski area. All resorts are covered by the Ötztal Superskipass; this is the automatic upgrade for any 3+ day pass.

TOP TIPS -SKIING IN SÖLDEN

Download the Sölden app on your smartphone. It is nicely laid out and provides an interactive piste map, ski tracker, information on restaurants and, of course, weather and snow conditions.

Solden chairlift
Solden deckchairs

PISTE CLASSIFICATION IN AUSTRIAN SKI RESORTS

Austrian ski resorts have a blue / red / black piste categorisation system that signifies easy / intermediate / advanced level of difficulty, similar to Switzerland. On the contrary, French, Italian and North American ski resorts classify easy pistes as green with blue and red signifying intermediate and advanced.

Solden blue slope
Solden Gaislachkogl gondola

WHAT CAN NON-SKIERS DO IN SÖLDEN?

Tobogganing, snowshoeing, cross-country skiing and ice-skating are some of the fun ways of spending your time in Sölden with your family and friends who don’t ski. Swimming in thermal pools is also a wonderful way to finish off one more great day. If you would like to learn more, it is worth checking out the official Sölden website

Solden snowy slope
Solden sunny slope

WHERE TO HAVE LUNCH & APRÈS SKI ON THE SLOPES IN SÖLDEN?

During our 3 daytrips to Sölden, we had the opportunity to enjoy a ski break on all 3 mountains. We enjoyed a hot chocolate at Innerwald, had a hearty lunch at Tiefenbach and partied at the Friday afternoon DJ party at Giggijogh. Everything was lovely. The ambience was great and the mountain views incredible. Furthermore, we were constantly surrounded by people having a wonderful time. This palpable excitement in the air perfectly complemented an already incredible day on the slopes.  

A more special fine dining experience would certainly be lunch at IceQ (which we unfortunately did not have time for). Dining in Austria’s highest located gourmet restaurant and one of the shooting locations for James Bond Spectre would certainly be a perfect accompaniment to visiting the 007 Elements cinematic installation (which we did make time for!). Note that both 007 Elements and IceQ are accessible via the Gaislachkoglbahn gondola. From the Gaislachkogl summit where IceQ is located, you can ski all the way down to base via red piste No1. 

Solden Ice Q building
TOP LEFT: GIGGIJOCH BASE | TOP RIGHT & BOTTOM: ICE Q RESTAURANT

THE WORLD OF JAMES BOND: 007 ELEMENTS CINEMATIC INSTALLATION

Adding to the variety of winter sport enthusiasts that Sölden already caters for, 007 Elements is a stunning cinematic installation dedicated to the world of legendary super spy James Bond. 007 Elements will delight Bond fans and modern architecture aficionados alike.

The whole experience of visiting 007 Elements is unique. From the moment we set foot in the impressive semi-circular transparent Middle Station, we felt like we were part of the action in Spectre. From there, we got on the Gaislachkogl gondola (also featured in Spectre) which took us to the summit in a truly futuristic style.

After taking in the 360-degree eye watering mountain views, we ventured towards the building. The minimalistic exposed concrete building is set at the Gaislachkogl summit (3,048m / 10,000ft). The architectural and structural design have spectacularly managed for the building to appear to be ‘sliding down’ the mountain slope. 

The exhibition building is half buried in the mountain, a dramatic entrance to the installation indeed. Then, through a series of interconnected interactive galleries, we were introduced to the signature elements that define a James Bond film. With emphasis on Spectre (partially shot in Sölden) but with artefacts and high-tech installations from all films, the exhibition is eye candy for fans of 007 and cinematography in general.

Needless to say, a perfect end to visiting the exhibition is to enjoy a fine dining experience at neighbouring IceQ restaurant or by skiing into the clouds and all the way down red piste No1, in true 007 style…

Solden 007 architecture
Solden 007 plane exhibit
Solden 007 window view
Solden 007 plane crash exhibit

PLANNING YOUR SKI TRIP TO SÖLDEN

HOW TO GET TO SÖLDEN? ANY OTHER GREAT DESTINATIONS NEAR BY?

Sölden ski resort is easily accessible via an 1H15min drive from Innsbruck airport. It is on the way to Obergurgl – Hochgurgl (AKA Gurgl) ski area which is perfect for a more laid back holiday and family friendly après ski. The free bus that connects the 3 ski resorts is quite frequent and quick (20-25mins from Sölden to Obergurgl). So, you can pop for the day or completely split your stay if you are on a longer trip. Alternatively, you could also combine your ski holiday in Sölden with a city trip to lovely Innsbruck.

If you are starting your journey from Austria, Germany (Hamburg, Düsseldorf, Nuremberg, Munich and others) or Switzerland (Zurich), it’s worth considering getting to Sölden by train. The nearest train station is Ötztal Bahnhof which is a 40min drive from Sölden. Routes, schedules and tickets can be found at OEBB.at and Deutsche Bahn. Note that there are frequent bus services from the train station to the resort, refer to the Ötztal Tourism website.

IS SÖLDEN SUITABLE FOR A SHORT SKI BREAK?

With the right flights, a shorter ski break in Sölden is definitely possible since transfer times from Innsbruck are quite short. Make sure to select accommodation that will provide you with quick and easy access to the slopes.

In the event of severe FOMO and overwhelm as to which mountain and slopes to do first, I would definitely recommend that advanced skiers attempt the BIG 3 Rally ski tour. As discussed earlier in this post, the 50km (31 miles) circuit allows for an overview of almost the whole resort in one (intense) day of skiing.

FINAL THOUGHTS: WHY VISIT SÖLDEN?

We had so much fun in Sölden! Excellent skiing with so much choice in pistes and stunning mountain scenery throughout. World class facilities and amazing options for hot chocolate, cold beer, hearty Austrian meals, elegant modern dining or partying till the last gondola! And, of course, what a special treat 007 Elements has been; a different kind of morning in the mountains! As we only visited for day skiing while staying in neighbouring Obergurgl, it is on our list to visit again… And this time to stay. 


This is not a sponsored post & I am not affiliated with any of the hotels, restaurants or organisations mentioned.

2 Comments

  1. Chryssa
    October 4, 2020 / 2:59 pm

    very nice photos!

    • Georgia
      October 7, 2020 / 10:51 am

      Thank you!

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