last updated: October 2023
Our first morning in Antigua, we woke up to the unfamiliar but beautiful sound of exotic birds. The view of a bustling marina was sprawling outside our window. It was filled with impressive yachts surrounded by lush green mountains and emerald waters. Neither my partner nor I sail. Yet we visited Antigua during Sailing Week, one of the top regattas in the world. We stayed in Falmouth Harbour, one of the most illustrious marinas in the Caribbean and spent our evenings in stupendous English Harbour. We felt like part of the crew of a wooden schooner!
Antigua is so much more than yachts though. It is the vibrant people, Creole cuisine and the oh so Caribbean laid back atmosphere! And, naturally, some of the most heaven-like beaches we have ever had the pleasure of visiting. Whether you are sailing to the island or just landing there on a commercial flight, here is how to spend your time experiencing a little bit of history and a lot of beach time, sprinkled with a bit of luxury and Caribbean flair.
Antigua is not the biggest of Caribbean islands. Yet, I’d recommend keeping driving distances in mind when creating your itinerary.
Also, I am a fan of slow travel. I prefer exploring mindfully and leisurely a curation of the best sights and venues rather than spending all day in a car frantically trying to capture selfies on every single location of the travel guide.
For these reasons, this post focuses on the south side of the island where the best sights and experiences and some incredible beaches are all conveniently bundled together.
The proposed activities and locations are perfect for a 7ish-day trip filled with Caribbean flair, a bit of culture and, of course, plenty of time on gorgeous beaches.
Falmouth Harbour, English Harbour and Pigeon beach are all blissfully within walking distance from each other. From there, getting to anywhere else requires a car.
During our trip, we used taxis to get around the island which we didn’t have trouble finding in Falmouth Harbour. Even though taxis are not the cheapest, renting a car might require a bit more effort than you’d expect. The road network is challenging and driving is on the left -another remnant of British colonialism. Also, complaints about rental car companies are not uncommon.
There is also a public bus service. We didn’t try it but this website might come in handy if you do.
Driving times:
English Harbour – St John’s: 45min
Airport – English Harbour: 45min
English Harbour – Jolly beach: 40min
In high season, driving times will most likely increase due to traffic.
Joining in with the yachting crowd, we stayed in Antigua Yacht Club Marina & Resort. Set amongst beautiful gardens right next to the marina in Falmouth Harbour, the hotel’s location is right in the middle of the action. Needless to say, for those participating or just keen on keeping up with Antigua Sailing Week, this is the place to be. Also, our spacious room was simply but prettily furnished and had stunning views of the harbour. If you are looking for a charming, reasonably priced hotel and you are not a fan of large all-inclusive resorts, you can’t go wrong with Antigua Yacht Club Marina & Resort.
Wish to splurge a bit more? As I discuss later in this post, we had a morning spa and pool session in Admiral’s Inn and Gunpowder Suites in English Harbour and it was splendid. I bet that staying there will be even more special.
DISCOVER SALTY CHIC ENGLISH HARBOUR & EXPLORE ANTIGUA’S COLONIAL HISTORY IN NELSON’S DOCKYARD _
With Antigua and Barbuda under English control from 1632, the narrow bay now known as English Harbour was chosen as the ideal site for a well-protected naval base. Being a ‘hurricane hole’, a safe anchorage location during a hurricane, and facing neighbouring French-dominated Guadeloupe, English Harbour became the ‘Gateway to the Caribbean’ for the British Empire.
At a time when European nations were battling for supremacy of the seas, the dockyard and its related facilities were built in order to obtain control over the lucrative sugar-producing islands of the Eastern Caribbean. Although greatly expanded at the time by British Admiral Horatio Nelson, the dockyard was gradually abandoned in the 19th century and closed in 1889. Today Nelson’s Dockyard has been completely restored. It is now the only Georgian dockyard in the world.
English Harbour (which includes Nelson’s Dockyard), Clarence House (now a museum) and Shirley Heights (more on that below) are the major components of Nelson’s Dockyard National Park, a graceful and evocative historic district and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. This truly unique corner of the world, steeped in history, is now a famous marina with elegant accommodation and select dining options. With its beautiful colonial architecture and stunning Caribbean landscape, English Harbour is a must-see for all visitors to Antigua.
Furthermore, English Harbour combined with neighbouring Falmouth Harbour are one of the greatest sailing hubs of the Caribbean. True to its nautical tradition, there are plenty of yachting companies for chartering boats or even learning how to sail. Now, that makes an interesting story for when you get back home!
TOP TIPS: NELSON’S DOCKYARD NATIONAL PARK ENTRY FEE
There is a modest entry fee for Nelson’s Dockyard National Park intended to support conservation works for the area. Refer to the Antigua & Barbuda National Parks website for more info.
From our experience, there are ways that can (legally) get you out of paying for the pass. Requirements change according to the time you enter the park, your accommodation or reason for visiting. Unfortunately, I could not find an official set of rules and exemptions online and I cannot claim to know this topic to the fullest. It’s probably best to have a chat with your hotel manager or marina staff before your visit to Nelson’s Dockyard.
DINING & SPA AT ADMIRAL’S INN & GUNPOWDER SUITES
A most elegant drinks and dining spot in English Harbour is at Admiral’s Inn and Gunpowder suites. Admiral’s Inn dates back to 1788 and among many uses, it housed the offices of the dockyard’s naval engineers. Its charming colonial architecture and advantageous position in Nelson’s Dockyard create the perfect setting for lunch, dinner and cocktails. We visited restaurants Pillars and Boom more than once and would definitely recommend both.
Furthermore, on a rainy morning, I decided to visit the spa at Gunpowder Suites. Even though we were not hotel guests, this also provided us with access to their fabulous infinity pool. So, along with a great massage we were also able to enjoy some of the best views on the island. Bliss!
GO TO A QUINTESSENTIAL CARIBBEAN SUNSET PARTY AT SHIRLEY HEIGHTS & ADMIRE THE BEST VIEW IN ANTIGUA_
Shirley Heights is a restored military lookout and gun battery which affords a superb view of English and Falmouth harbours, probably the best on the island. Set on the hill to the east of English Harbour at about 490 ft (150m) high, it was named after Antigua’s Governor sir T. Shirley. In 1781, he ordered fortifications to be built around English Harbour to further protect the Naval Dockyard. Once you go there, you will know why this location was chosen.
Shirley Heights can be visited at any time of day; it is indeed a must-do while in Antigua. It is a short taxi ride all the way to the lookout point. If you are a hiker, there are several trails leading there. Whether by car or on foot, visiting early in the day will enable you to admire the tropical shades of blue of Antigua’s coastline. We, however, visited Shirley Heights during the famous sunset party held every Sunday afternoon.
Shirley Heights Sunday sunset party is organised by Shirley Heights Lookout Restaurant & Bar housed in the retrofitted buildings of the fort. There are drinks, barbecue and local bands playing a mix of calypso, reggae and pop music. The stupendous view and happy vibes by both locals and visitors makes this a proper Caribbean-style event, and one to remember. Among many a memorable experience in Antigua, it was one of the top. I cannot recommend the location and party enough!
As mentioned previously, there is a modest entry fee for Nelson’s Dockyard National Park (including Shirley Heights).
TOP TIPS: SHIRLEY HEIGHTS AS A REGATTA VANTAGE POINT
Shirley Heights is the perfect vantage point for the many sailing races in the island’s social calendar.
INDULGE IN ANTIGUA’S SEAFARING GLAMOUR IN FALMOUTH HARBOUR & RELAX AT PIGEON BEACH
FALMOUTH HARBOUR_
A wide bay surrounded by lush green hills, Falmouth Harbour is a deep, natural harbour, and our base for this trip. It is filled with a variety of vessels ranging from small sailing boats to state-of-the-art superyachts. Watching their comings and goings from any of the waterside cafés, bars and restaurants is a special way to spend a morning or afternoon.
Despite the large number of very glamorous boats, Falmouth Harbour hasn’t become a playground for luxury brands and debauched haunts unlike many illustrious sailing hubs around the world. It remains true to its original purpose of a working port for pleasure boats, albeit a polished one. We really liked that.
There are several restaurants along the waterfront serving international favourites but, do not miss the local cuisine! The walk from Falmouth to English Harbour will have you pass several colourful canteens and small, modest restaurants serving traditional Caribbean dishes and barbecued seafood. We tried a couple, either on the go or sit down. Dishes like roti and grilled prawns were finger licking good and incredibly affordable.
PIGEON BEACH_
At the edge of Falmouth Harbour, just a short walk away, you will find Pigeon beach or Pigeon Point beach. A quintessential Caribbean beach, with warm turquoise waters and soft white sand, this small paradise is so close and yet feels so far from the hustle and bustle of Falmouth and English Harbour.
Adding to the picture perfect scenery, Catherine’s Café is the ideal place to hang out after your swim. With daybeds sprawled across the sand as well as proper lunch tables, this spot is perfect for long daytime lunches or fine dining on the beach. Catherine’s Café serves French cuisine, adapted to locally sourced ingredients. Even though we didn’t need a break from Caribbean cuisine (which we love), we thoroughly enjoyed our most elegant meal on the beach.
SWIM IN THE TURQUOISE WATERS OF LOVE BEACH & LOUNGE AT JACQUI O’S_
I often think of Love beach. I think about it in the context of paradise on earth, best beaches I have ever been too, wish I lived on a Caribbean island… Check out the photos below, they have not been filtered in the slightest! Turquoise waters, palm-fringed soft white sand and the endless horizon! Wow.
We actually visited Love beach more than once during our short time on the island. This fact alone attests to the natural beauty of the beach as well as the great atmosphere, service and cuisine at Jacqui O’s Beach House. Caribbean cocktails on the sand, scrumptious lunch in the restaurant or just lounging at the luxurious sun loungers, we had a blast at Jacqui O’s.
TOP TIPS: VISITING LOVE BEACH
- If you do an online search for Love beach, Antigua, you might not find it. Or you might get sent straight to Jacqui O’s Beach House. More evidence that this place is out of this world! Seriously, though, not everyone calls the beach Love beach. So, even if you don’t wish to visit Jacqui O’s itself you might need to head towards there, anyway. While this is not the longest of beaches, there is plenty of space to sit incognito.
- The beach can be easily accessed by car. It is approximately a 40min drive from Falmouth Harbour.
- The beach is facing the open water and, as such, it might get wavy depending on wind direction and intensity. If you prefer super calm water, choose visiting Love beach on a non-windy day.
CHILL IN THE ELEGANT HAVEN OF CARLISLE BAY & HAVE HIGH TEA ON THE BEACH_
Antigua is all about spending long days relaxing on a beautiful beach. One of the prettiest ones along the south coast of the island is Carlisle Bay. A small sheltered bay with calm turquoise water and soft white sand, surrounded by lush hills filled with palm trees lazily swaying in the wind… This is postcard material (again).
Carlisle Bay is both the name of the beach and the luxury resort located on the east end of the beach. We were eager to spend the day in comfort so we indulged in Carlisle Bay resort‘s beach day pass that gave us access to sun loungers, umbrella, non-motorised water sports and other facilities. We also had a proper English tea on the beach, scones and all! All in all, another wonderful day in paradise!
TOP TIPS: VISITING CARLISLE BAY
- The day pass for Carlisle Bay Resort is quite an extravagant way of visiting this magnificent beach. You definitely don’t have to do the same. The resort’s sun loungers only occupy part of the bay and there’s plenty of empty space. Note that there are no private beaches in Antigua; they are all open to the public. One of the many reasons I loved this island!
- Carlisle Bay is easily accessible by car. It is approximately a 30min drive from Falmouth Harbour.
WHAT ABOUT ST JOHN’S & THE REST OF THE ISLAND?
Exploring the south coast of the island will make for a relaxing but fulfilling 7ish day stay in Antigua. If you are staying on the island longer you will have plenty of time to see more.
SAINT JOHN’S_
Even though our trip focused on the south side of the island, one morning we resisted the beach (I deserve a medal for that) and headed towards the colourful capital of Antigua. Home to about 22,000 people, this is the commercial and administrative centre of the island nation. It is also its biggest port with numerous cruise liners crowding the narrow bay.
Saint John’s is an interesting town. While it feels authentically Caribbean, it is clear that, especially the area near the port, has been re-developed to cater for cruise liner tourists wanting to indulge in some shopping. My partner and I ventured towards Heritage Quay and Redcliffe Quay because… that is what all the guidebooks say you should do. Even though some of the colourful buildings are indeed very cute, I‘d recommend going there if you are keen on shopping. Heritage Quay features mostly jewellery shops. Redcliffe Quay offers a selection of small independent shops as well as cute cafés and restaurants.
In retrospective, I think the best way to explore Saint John’s and get a real taste of modern Antigua would be on a private or small group tour with a local. That way you will be able to hear, see and learn about all the historical anecdotes, local shops and restaurants or other hidden gems that locals know.
REST OF THE ISLAND
There are amazing beaches scattered all over the island. It is said that there is one for every day of the year… We so wish we had time to explore them all! If you do, head towards Dickenson Bay, Darkwood Bay beach, Ffryes beach, Half Moon Bay, Long Bay beach which are amongst the most famous Antiguan beaches.
If you find yourself inland, Betty’s Hope stone windmills is a modest monument and interpretive centre about the sugar-making process, the hardship of daily life in the plantation and the role enslaved people played in the island’s history.
FINAL THOUGHTS: WHY VISIT ANTIGUA?
You might have come across a nickname for Antigua as the island with a different beach for every day of the year. We wish we could put this to the test! However, the beaches we did see blew our minds with their heavenly turquoise water and powdery white sand complete with a backdrop of palm trees lazily swaying in the wind. This island though is more than a picture perfect postcard of Caribbean beaches. Rich history and maritime tradition along with the ever present Caribbean flair makes Antigua more than just a honeymoon destination. Antigua has something for everyone, yachties, beach bums, families and rugged travellers alike.
Thanks lovely Antigua, it’s been a dream.
This is not a sponsored post & I am not affiliated with any of the hotels, restaurants or organisations mentioned.
A DEEP DIVE INTO ANTIGUA & BARBUDA
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