Amorgos: Wild beauty in the bluest of the Greek seas

A TRAVEL GUIDE TO AMORGOS ISLAND, GREECE

last updated: May 2023

Tall, rocky cliffs towering over electric blue water. It is windy. Even in the glorious sunshine and scorching heat, the sea is restless. Hide in the winding cobblestone streets of Chora, the capital town hidden high up in the mountains and escape into a world where everything manmade is in miniature form. Small windows to escape the strong sun, small streets to protect from the strong winds. A stark antithesis to the grandness of a landscape filled with dramatic clifftops, steep mountains and rugged bays.

There is a strange monastery carved on the face of a steep rock. It is the second oldest in Greece. I guess that makes it really, truly old. Its odd proportions, 40m high but only 5m wide add to its incredible cliffhanging location 300m high above the sea. Throughout millennia, Amorgos coexists with the elements. At the edge of the Cycladic archipelago, the sea, sun and wind are mightier here. They have forged this dragon shaped rocky island into a unique destination which even today is untouched by mass tourism. A destination which will offer you glimpses of older, simpler times along with breathtaking, larger than life vistas of the infinite blue. 

WHAT TO DO IN AMORGOS?

There is one main road which spans along the length of the island (north – south) with some key perpendicular roads branching out from it. Fortunately, Chora, the capital town, and Katapola, the main port, are both based in the middle of the island. Therefore, I would recommend spending different days on the north and the south side of the island to avoid driving all day. Unless you love driving; if so, you will have the rides of your life in Amorgos. Breathtaking cliff edge views of the horizon and the electric blue sea appear at every twist and turn of the winding roads.

A note on windy days. It was very windy when we visited the island. If you have been to Mykonos and think that was windy, think again. From conversations with other people, it seems to me that this was not a one-off thing! It certainly adds to the wild beauty and mystique of the island, but definitely take wind direction into consideration before deciding which beach to visit. Activities with small boats may also be interrupted so check the weather for the days ahead before making your plans! 

EXPLORE THE CENTRE OF THE ISLAND: CHORA, AGIA ANNA, HOZOVIOTISSA, KATAPOLA & MALTEZI

CHORA

Chora is considered one of the most beautiful capital towns of the Aegean Sea. If you have visited a few Greek islands by now, you will know that there is fierce competition! I have visited my fair share of Cycladic isles, and I concur. Chora is stunning and an absolute must-see. 

The (very) narrow cobblestone streets are framed by the cutest whitewashed buildings. Their small scale and maze-like layout will protect you from the wind gusts that hit you the moment you park your car at the edge of Chora. The town itself is car free. Wander around a bit and you will soon find narrow roads opening to spacious leafy squares framed by postcard perfect traditional Cycladic churches and houses. Their colourful window shutters and doors create a euphoric sense of joie de vivre that lifts your spirits even more so than the aromas from the delicacies prepared in the little tavernas.

Your walks around Chora will be best enjoyed before and after breakfast and dinner; restaurant and bar recommendations are further down in this blog post. In the evenings, live traditional bands may instigate impromptu folk dancing on streets and courtyards! 

AGIA ANNA BEACH 

Even though the following account is poor in relation to our experience of Agia Anna beach, I hope it somehow conveys the uniqueness of this beautiful place. If you don’t get excited when you read it, then I don’t think anything will excite you in Amorgos. I would visit the island again, just to relive this. One of the must-sees. 

The drive to Agia Anna is spectacular. Starting high up the mountain from Chora, you lose altitude with every turn of the road and come one step closer to infinity, the horizon. The island’s rocky formations are spectacularly rugged and steep with huge volumes of rock plummeting into the magnetic blue sea. In the distance, you can see the endless folds of Amorgos’ mountain ranges dropping jaggedly into the water. 

The descend to the beach is long but the stone steps are well formed. There was only enough space on the beach to leave a bag but entering the refreshing, blue water through the rocky formations felt to me like a baptism to Amorgian life. Not an easy life but a beautiful one, filled with sea, wind and sun. Swim all around the rocks to your left and once you are close to open water, there it will be. The Hozoviotissa monastery, proud, alone, sun drenched and windswept, in the most ridiculous, adventurous, romantic place anyone would ever decide to build anything. Religious or not, we were all moved.

TOP TIPS -VISITING AGIA ANNA:

There are two sides to Agia Anna with two sets of stairs. One on the side of the chapel and one further south; there are many steps for either side. Both beaches are very small, unorganised, and very popular.

We visited the south one on a late afternoon which proved to be a good time as most people were gone. Early morning might also be a good idea. Due the size and topography of the beach, you wouldn’t spend all day here anyway. If you do want to stay for longer, put your things in a dry bag, swim around the rocks and find a sunbathing spot on them. Prepare to see a lot of nudists. A waterproof camera or even placing your phone on a small dry bag will allow you to take photos of the monastery.

HOZOVIOTISSA MONASTERY

This remarkable 11^th century structure was built as an ode to the grace of Virgin Mary or Panagia, as we, Greeks, call her. She is the saint protector of the island. Her icon, housed in the monastery, was salvaged from destruction, and arrived on the bay of Agia Anna after a treacherous sea journey from Hoziva, Palestine, hence the name and location of the monastery. 

The whole experience of getting to the monastery is almost meditative due to the breathtaking views of the sparkling blue waters of the Aegean Sea. It culminates with the monks, guardians of the monastery’s treasures, greeting us with local sweet wine and sweets.

The monastery is an architectural and engineering marvel; built into the face of a cliff, 300m above the water. The building is 40m high and 5m wide with its 8 stories developing in a larger width utilizing functional wall recesses of rock. Hozoviotissa monastery is with no doubt, the pride of Amorgos and a definite must-see for everyone, regardless of religious beliefs. 

TOP TIPS -VISITING HOZOVIOTISSA MONASTERY:

Hozoviotissa monastery is just 2km from Chora. You can reach the monastery via a footpath in about 30 minutes. Alternatively, park your car outside the monastery gates and climb the 300 or so paved steps up to the building. All visitors need to have their shoulders and legs covered to enter the monastery. 

KATAPOLA & MALTEZI BEACH

Katapola is the main port of the island. A typical Cycladic port, it is a wide bay with its two sides featuring well kept tavernas, shops and B&Bs.  In the centre of the bay there is even a beach. Even though it lacks the charm of Chora, Katapola is a nice place for having breakfast or dinner by the water. Head towards the north side of the port, away from the main ferry dock for a bit more of a rustic ambience with deckchairs next to the water and kids diving amongst fishing boats.

Walking even further towards the north end of the bay, you will find sandy Maltezi beach. The route is not that obvious but there is signage and a map after ‘Le Grand Bleu’ café highlighting the easy 20min hike. Maltezi can also be reached by boat from the south side of the bay. We only discovered the sign on our last morning in Amorgos and prior to that, small boats were to remain in the port due to the wind, so we didn’t visit this beach. Nevertheless, we heard from many people that it is very nice. One of the few on the island that is organised with a beach bar, umbrellas and sunbeds. If you are in Katapola and can’t be bothered to drive, it sounds like a winner. 

EXPLORE THE NORTH OF THE ISLAND: AGIOS PAVLOS & NIKOURIA, AIGIALI & LEVROSOS

AGIOS PAVLOS BEACH & NIKOURIA ISLAND

The first stop on the way north is Agios Pavlos beach; it will take you about 20min from Chora by car. The view from the road on the way to the beach is truly spectacular. The peninsula is made of white pebbles with beautiful turquoise water all around and a narrow channel separates it from uninhabited Nikouria islet.

The beach is a 2min walk from the car park. However, the peninsula is quite exposed to the winds so I’d recommend hopping on the frequent boats that take you to Nikouria. The two beaches there are truly lovely, the first one also has a small beach bar, though no shade, umbrellas or sunbeds. 

AIGIALI & LEVROSOS BEACH

Aigiali is the secondary port of the island on the northeast tip of Amorgos, a 35min drive from Chora. The seaside is peppered with B&Bs, tavernas and shops and there is also a wide sandy beach with a few beach bars at the edge of the town.  Further away, towards the north end of the large bay, there are three further beaches. 

We visited the first beach, Levrosos, which can be accessed by going down many steps from the road and car park on the hill. The beach is wide and sandy and there are a few beach bars on the hillside. The two beaches after Levrosos involved a hike on what looked like quite the hilly landscape, so we didn’t try them. 

To be honest, our day in Aigiali was a bit of a failure. We started out super excited because both the beach right next to town and Levrosos were organised and a bit more spacious and uncrowded than all the other beaches on the island. However, it was super windy, so the quality of the water was not great at all. Also, Aigiali as a village is not unmissable; the picturesque villages of Tholaria and Langada on the hills are said to be a more charming alternative. Nevertheless, due to the beach debacle, we run out of steam and headed straight back to the safe bet of Chora! 

EXPLORE THE SOUTH SIDE OF THE ISLAND: MOUROS, OLYMPIA SHIPWRECK, KALOTARITISSA & GRAMVOUSSA

MOUROS BEACH

The first stop on our journey to southern Amorgos was Mouros bay which turned out even better than we expected! The beach is not only worth visiting for the crystal clear blue waters and rugged landscape but also for the incredible shallow caves found along the edge of the bay! Swim past the rocks where people of all ages try out their diving skills, and you will find yourself swimming along a series of beautiful caverns carved against the tall jagged cliffside. Each grotto has its own distinct shape and feature; make sure you are in the mood for the long swim back from the last one. An absolute must visit while in Amorgos! 

TOP TIPS -VISITING MOUROS BEACH:

It is about a 30min drive from Chora to Mouros beach. As with most beaches in Amorgos, park the car high up and continue downhill via many well-formed stone steps. There is a café at the top of the hill, near the parking spaces. The beach is unorganised with thick sand and pebble, and with no natural shade until late in the day. It will be busy in high summer. 

OLYMPIA SHIPWRECK

Continuing on the main road towards the island’s end, the landscape becomes more mellow and smooth as the hillsides become softer and shallower. Second to last bay, Liveros is a 40min drive from Chora, home to another Amorgian postcard and must visit sight. The shipwreck of the commercial ship ‘Olympia’ has stood here abandoned, ever since the winter of 1980 when the captain and crew sought refuge in the narrow bay from the stormy seas. Luckily, they all survived, but the rusty skeleton of the boat is another reminder of the powerful natural forces that have shaped this extraordinary island.  

TOP TIPS -VISITING THE OLYMPIA SHIPWRECK:

The shipwreck can just about be seen from the road, but it is a 20min easy hike to the beach. The bay itself is quite impressive and you can see the wreck pretty much all the way to it. If you get hungry on the way there, traditional villages Vroutsi and Arkesini are known for their affordable tavernas. 

KALOTARITISSA BAY & GRAMVOUSSA ISLAND

Last stop on our journey to the south side of the island is Kalotaritissa bay, just a 5min drive from the shipwreck. Literally at the end of the island, this bay is so sheltered that it looks almost like a lake. No matter how windy it is, this bay is always perfectly calm! From Kalotaritissa beach, one can take a boat ride to nearby Gramvoussa island, which has a nice beach too, albeit unorganised. Boats weren’t running when we visited, due to the winds. 

TOP TIPS -VISITING KALOTARITISSA BAY:

Kalotaritissa bay is quaint, calm and organised; quite different from all the other beaches on the island. It is well worth the trip if you are seeking for a mostly sandy, children-friendly beach. You can park your car right next to the beach (no steps or hike!). Apart from the umbrellas for hire, there is also some natural shade.

HOW TO GET AROUND IN AMORGOS?

Due to the topography and size of the island, Amorgos is best explored by car. Even though Chora is car free, all the sights, villages and beaches are scattered all around this very long island. There are many car rental shops around, also accessible online.

Prepare for jaw dropping clifftop views of the horizon and the electric blue sea appearing at every twist and turn of the road! One day, at the highest points, amidst the rugged mountain ranges and a fair few goat, we even found ourselves above the clouds! The breathtaking views do come with a small warning though. Avoid hiring a car if you are not an experienced driver. Even though the network is in good condition, the steep turns, narrow roads and blood chilling cliff edges may be nerve-wrecking for those who only drive in the city or the 6-lane motorway. 

There is a public bus which connects the main sights and towns of the island. We also saw a few taxis; just not that many to feel comfortable that we could easily find one with just a phone call. If you are based in Chora, it might just be doable to rely on this basic public transport for a weekend trip. However, this will probably be quite tiring for a longer holiday. Honestly, if it weren’t for our friends hiring a car with us (neither my partner nor I drive), I would not stay in Amorgos for the 4.5 days that we did. 

It goes without saying that it is worth grouping your visits to sights and beaches based on location. Divide your activities into north, centre and south side of the island, to minimise driving times. Also, have a think of the places you would like to visit before booking your accommodation. 

WHERE TO STAY IN AMORGOS?

Despite being an off the beaten track destination, Amorgos has die-hard fans who visit every year. The island is also popular with French visitors because of the film ‘Le Grand Bleu’ which was partially shot here. So, finding accommodation to your liking may prove quite the challenge which is what happened to us when we visited the island. We struggled to find accommodation and ended up somewhere which would not be my first choice. However, my friends and I did do extensive research before our trip. The following accommodation options looked pretty good: 

CHORA: Vorina Ktismata  |   Emprostiada Traditional Guesthouse

KATAPOLA: Aegean of Amorgos | Thomas apartments

If possible, book at least 4-5 months in advance, especially if you wish to stay in Chora, even more so if you plan to visit in July or August and, definitely, if you like your little luxuries and chic design. Most accommodation options are a bit old school or, let’s just say basic (but budget friendly!). 

All in all, I loved Chora and would recommend staying there. We stayed in Katapola which, nevertheless, was nice too. Having breakfast next to the water with the boats coming and going was pretty awesome. Lastly, there are a few large resorts in and close to Aigiali. If you stay there and wish to explore the whole island, prepare for some driving; from there, it’s about an hour one way to the south end of the island.

WHERE TO EAT & DRINK IN AMORGOS?

Amorgos is a bit of an old school Greek island. The food is amazing and very affordable. Everyone is super friendly, but the service is a bit on… island time. There is no fancy avocado on toast, just good old fashioned Greek yogurt and honey kind of breakfast. If you are a bit of a coffee afficionado, this might be the only place in Greece where you will struggle -go for a traditional Greek coffee. The coctails are good though!

Having said all that, here are my notes from our time on the island.

CHORA -BREAKFAST

The perfect breakfast location in Chora is leafy Loza square. It is literally an old school village square with a huge tree in the middle, charming cobblestone and cute houses all around. Head to either Ilios or Loza. 

We also heard from many people that Giasemi (AKA Jazzmin), situated on an offshoot from the main street of Chora is a great breakfast place. We had cocktails there one evening and the setting is gorgeous. 

CHORA -LUNCH & DINNER

We had scrumptious traditional mezedes (tapas) at Tranzistoraki; I am Greek but even the most basic dishes impressed me. In Kastanis, we had deliciously cooked goat (and I usually don’t eat that sort of meat). We also had an excellent traditional Greek dinner in Birzolaki. Lastly, our meal at Apospero was also very tasty, with a bit more of a modern, Mediterranean flair. 

CHORA -SWEETS & ICECREAM

Kallisto is easy to miss; it is located on a tiny alley perpendicular to the main street of Chora. However, the setting is gorgeous, and the sweets and ice creams are excellent, so make sure to drop by. 

CHORA -DRINKS

Botilia and Giasemi (AKA Jazzmin) are the perfect bars to enjoy a cocktail or two and to pass the time people watching. If you are lucky to catch the band performing traditional songs live in Triporto, you will be able to join the impromptu street dancing usually initiated by Greek university students holidaying on the island!

EVERYWHERE ELSE BUT CHORA 

We had breakfast in Katapola in Aigaion, near the dock, and ‘Le Grand Bleu’ on the other side of the bay. As I mentioned previously, breakfast is not a fancy affair in Amorgos, but the seaside setting is lovely, and the yogurt and honey were always amazing. 

Oddly for an island, we found ourselves having a lot of meat and no fresh fish. Not sure if it was the fact that it was very windy when we were there, and all small boats remained in place. Or maybe because we only had dinner in Chora; I imagine there will be fresh fish in the many tavernas of the two ports of the island, Aigiali and Katapola. If you don’t eat meat, plenty of veggie options are always available throughout Greece, no need to worry.

Lastly, I heard from many people that in the traditional villages of Tholaria, Langada and Vroutsi, one can find proper traditional, finger licking dishes; super affordable too as they focus on sourcing local ingredients rather than fancy restaurant design. Unfortunately, we didn’t have enough time to explore them.

HOW MANY DAYS SHOULD I STAY IN AMORGOS? 

We stayed in Amorgos for 4 nights / 4.5 days. It was enough time to explore most of the island, even though I felt a bit rushed at times. We visited most beaches for a couple of hours rather than all day (which is what I usually do!). We also didn’t have time to explore the traditional villages of Vroutsi, Tholaria and Langada which many say are worth seeing. Ideally, if you truly want to see the whole island, a week or so will be enough for both sightseeing and a bit of relaxing.

If you are visiting Amorgos as part of a larger island hopping trip and you are short on time, you can cover the highlights in 2-3 days. As you may have gathered from my comments on the ‘What to do in Amorgos’ section, for me the highlights were: Chora, the Hozoviotissa monastery, Agia Anna beach, Mouros beach and the Olympia shipwreck. I have visited many Greek islands, but I found these locations and sights to be not only beautiful but truly unique. 

HOW TO GET TO AMORGOS? ISLAND HOPPING TIPS & ITINERARIES

Amorgos is the most eastern and one of the most remote islands in the Cycladic archipelago. So, it will be far easier to combine your visit to the island with one of the more centrally located Cycladic islands rather than starting your trip from Athens.

If you do start from Athens, the high speed ferry or catamaran will take about 5-6 hours depending on the route. The conventional boat takes about 8 hours. 

The trip to Amorgos can be much faster if you are island hopping. It took us only 40min on the high speed catamaran to get to Amorgos from Koufonisia. Similarly, it will be fairly quick to visit Amorgos from any island in the Minor Cyclades complex (Donousa, Iraklia, Schinousa, Koufonisia) as well as Naxos; legendary Express Skopelitis connects Amorgos to Minor Cyclades and Naxos all year round.

Amorgos is also 1 hour and a bit from Santorini (again on the high speed). You can also easily combine your trip with lovely Astypalaia (1h40 on the high speed). From there, you can fly back to Athens and avoid the long boat trip all the way to the mainland!

Have a look at my suggested itineraries below. There are many ways to curate your trip to suit your mood. You can combine it with ultra famous destinations such as Mykonos or Santorini or with even more off the beaten track islands.  

FINAL THOUGHTS -WHY VISIT AMORGOS?

A trip to Amorgos is not suited to everyone, even though everyone who has been there appreciates the island’s magnificence and uniqueness. Why isn’t it suited to everyone? Because its wild beauty requires an urge for exploration. Its lively town is best enjoyed for those who are young at heart and will appreciate the impromptu folk dancing on the already narrow alleys. Those who will embrace the crazy winds keeping you awake at night. Those who are willing to climb three storeys worth of stairs to get to a rocky beach just to get a glimpse of the monastery nestled in the cliffs. Those willing to climb the same endless stairs all the way up and gasp at the sight of the island’s patron: the infinite blue.