Astypalaia: The butterfly of the Greek seas

A TRAVEL GUIDE TO ASTYPALAIA ISLAND, GREECE

last updated: May 2023

Astypalaia (or Astypalea) is one of those places that makes you feel like you are at the end of the world. One step further and you drop off the map. Maybe it’s the views of the unobstructed horizon. Or it could be that in Chora, the capital town, the walk up the steps towards the castle which towers over the miniature settlement is eerie beautiful, quiet and windy. Astypalaia, sits in the middle of the sea between two island clusters – the Cyclades and Dodecanese. A butterfly spreading its wings wide into the Aegean blue…

Astypalaia’s geographical position has kept it until very recently quite isolated. However, the recent increase in flights from Athens has transformed this butterfly shaped island into an off the beaten track, laid back destination that also offers some of the finer things in life.

SOME BACKGROUND INFO

Astypalaia is geographically situated between the Cyclades and the Dodecanese islands. As you may know, the two island groups are quite different in terms of architecture and landscape. The Cyclades are known for their white cubic houses with blue shatters perched on barren rocky landscapes. Quite a difference compared to the colourful, medieval villages on rolling green hills found in many of the Dodecanese islands.

Despite its municipal classification in the Dodecanese islands, Astypalaia’s architecture and landscape are typical Cycladic.  

WHAT TO DO IN ASTYPALAIA?

EXPLORE CHORA, THE CAPITAL TOWN OF ASTYPALAIA

Chora’s sugar cube houses have been built to follow the morphology of the rugged landscape. Starting from the footsteps of the Venetian castle at high elevation, they drop down onto the lower hills where the traditional windmills are, and then, all the way down to the cute port. Chora is one of the most beautiful island capital towns in Greece.

In Chora, you will find plenty of real life postcards of Cycladic architecture. The small white cubic houses with their blue shutters nestle closely to each other. The maze-like alleys that they form were intended to disorientate and fight off pirates. Most of the town perches on a rugged hilly peninsula.

While exploring the little town, we couldn’t help but notice that all the locals know each other, say good morning or good afternoon and smile! And why wouldn’t they? They live in paradise… at least for half the year. Winters, they say, are tough. 

Walking the cobblestoned streets all the way up the castle and all the way down to the port is definitely worth waking up early in the morning for. Not keen on getting up early? Leave the beach early-ish in the afternoon. Early in the morning or close to sunset is the best time to enjoy Chora; it’s not too hot and you will find the most beautiful photography lighting conditions.

SPEND THE DAY ON THE BEACH

LIVADI BEACH

The closest beach to Chora is Livadi. As it was within walking distance from our hotel (more on that below), we spent most days there. Note that from the edge of Chora, you will have to walk downhill for about 20-25mins next to a not too busy road in order to get to the beach.

The water in Livadi is lovely, clear and calm and the beach is a sand/pebble mix. You can rent an umbrella and sunbeds for the day at a VERY reasonable price but there is also free space to sit on your beach towel if you prefer! There are also plenty of tavernas and cafes around. 

MALTEZANA BEACH

As neither my boyfriend nor I drive, and we both enjoy traveling slow and not exhausting ourselves in long commutes, we only ventured to one more beach. We took a taxi to Maltezana beach and it was lovely. It is situated on the eastern wing of the butterfly (east side of the island where the airport is). The water was clear, calm and shallow. You can rent an umbrella and sunbeds in one of the nearby hotels.

KOUNOUPA & KOUTSOMITI ISLETS

Two more beaches which look spectacular are the ones in two neighbouring uninhabited islets: Kounoupa (or Kounoupes) and Koutsomiti. In Kounoupa, there is a narrow strip of pebbled sand that connects two pieces of land. There is clear, turquoise water on either side of the strip. In Koutsomiti, you swim in the turquoise waters of the narrow channel created by two small islands! I should note that the name of the island Kounoupa derives from the Greek word mosquito, so bring a mosquito repellent, just in case.

Local boats are doing daily excursions to both beaches (ask at the port), weather dependent. It can get quite windy out at sea and boat operators generally do not risk people getting sea sick! So, do not fret if your excursion gets cancelled (like ours did), it’s probably for the best!

TOP TIP -EXPLORING ASTYPALAIA’S BEACHES

If you would like to explore more beaches, have a look here for a detailed description of each one. I also made a note of the best ones on the travel map in the beginning of the post. Note that many of the beaches may be more easily accessed with a 4×4 car. If your driving skills have only been tested in the city, have a chat with the locals to get suitable recommendations! 

HOW TO GET AROUND IN ASTYPALAIA?

Astypalaia is a fairly large island, albeit not a very populous one. Chora can be explored on foot but getting to the beaches, the airport or the port will require you renting a car, hiring a taxi or using the local bus.

Local buses connect Chora with other major locations. Bus routes are quite frequent during the summer, typically carried out almost every 30′. Bus routes and taxi phone numbers can be found in central spots around the island (or check with your hotel / host).

If you are planning to visit some of the more remote beaches on the island, it is best to hire a car with 4WD as you may come across the occasional dirt road. There are quite a few car rental spots in Chora.

WHERE TO STAY IN ASTYPALAIA?

We spent a week in Pylaia Boutique Hotel & Spa and could not recommend it enough. The hotel is beautifully situated at the top of the hill and offers magnificent views over the blue sea. It is just a short walk away from Chora but also the lovely beach of Livadi.

Pylaia boutique hotel combines traditional architectural design with modern decorative touches. Our spacious room was designed in line with these principles and made for a special and comfortable stay. All the common areas, especially the restaurant and bar, are tastefully decorated and compliment the magnificent view. The pool and spa made for a delightfully relaxed first day which gave us the opportunity to unwind and ease into island life. Lastly, the staff was polite, hospitable and very friendly.

All in all, our stay in Pylaia Boutique Hotel perfectly complemented our trip to this beautiful island.

WHERE & WHAT TO EAT IN ASTYPALAIA?

Astypalaia could be the best Greek island I have found (so far) with regards to value for money. From fresh fish and seafood to delicious cocktails and organic juices, we found everything to be very reasonably priced and… truly fresh! Despite the island’s modest population, during the summer months, you are never too far from a fish taverna or souvlaki place, and, surprisingly, quite a few lively cocktail bars. 

For a more elegant dinner option, head towards the edge of Chora in Akti restaurant which offers magnificent views of the bay in a truly romantic setting. Book in advance and request the isolated tables in the various smaller terraces on the cliffs. Another romantic option is Cucina at Pylaia Boutique Hotel; we really enjoyed the dimly lit, sophisticated ambience and the modern Mediterranean cuisine. 

As I mentioned previously, do not miss heading all the way up the hill in Chora towards the castle. When you are close to the top, have a pitstop in Castro bar. It is situated underneath the medieval castle and the ambience is truly unique.

HOW MANY DAYS SHOULD I STAY IN ASTYPALAIA?

We stayed in Astypalaia for a week and could have easily stayed longer. If you enjoy spending your day on the beach and your evening in a beautiful traditional town, or if you just like to travel slow, then this island is for you!

Alternatively, if you are flying from Athens (see below), you can spend a weekend and get a flavour of what the island has to offer. 

HOW TO GET TO ASTYPALAIA? ISLAND HOPPING TIPS & ITINERARIES

For the busy bees short on time, I would recommend opting for the fun 40min flight from Athens in one of the smallest airplanes you will find while travelling in Europe, operated by Greek airline Sky Express. Astypalaia has a miniature airport that hosts national flights and it is simply adorable. You didn’t think you would ever find adorable and airport in the same sentence, did you? Given the short flight time, you could easily combine the island with a visit to Athens. The only other direct flight to Astypalaia is from the island of Leros, also by Sky Express.

Historically, the port of Astypalaia marks the end of a very long route connecting the Cycladic islands to the mainland. Typically, there is one boat per day by Blue Star Ferries from Piraeus (the main port of Athens) and the journey takes about 9 hours (!). As you can see on the map, Astypalaia sits between the Cyclades and the Dodecanese kind of… on its own…  This boat is a good option if you are island hopping from one of the other islands on route such as Paros, Naxos or Amorgos rather than starting from Athens.

Furthermore, Dodekanisos Seaways which serves the Dodecanese islands also has routes that include Astypalaia. This creates the perfect opportunity to combine your trip with an established destination such as Rhodes (5.5h boat journey) or Kos (2h boat journey); both have international airports. Alternatively, why not visit one more under-the-radar island such as Patmos, Chalki or Nisyros? Truly exciting times for lonely Astypalaia!

TOP TIP -ASTYPALAIA’S PORTS

Astypalaia has two ports. The old port (Pera Gialos) is pretty much the extension of Chora. The new port is a 10min drive from Chora, on the north side of the island. If you are coming to Astypalaia from another island, you will most likely disembark at the new port; the old one is mostly intended for fishing and tourist boats. Have a look at the travel map in the beginning of the blog post!

Check out the suggested island hopping itineraries below.

FINAL THOUGHTS -WHY VISIT ASTYPALAIA?

Before visiting Astypalaia, I had only heard about Chora, that it is amongst the most beautiful of the Aegean Sea. Nevertheless, many islands claim that title for their capital town and competition is strong, so I kept my expectations low. After all, Astypalaia is off the beaten track even for Greeks, though this seems to be slowly changing, and rightly so. When I finally visited the island, I was extremely impressed by its combination of rugged landscape and fairy tale town, its amazing seafood and array of lively cafes and bars. All packaged in a demure, value for money and not too crowded destination. The butterfly spreads its wings in the Aegean blue, lonely, rugged and yet so friendly and playful… You’ll be absolutely charmed…