A TRAVEL GUIDE TO ISLA HOLBOX, MEXICO
last updated: November 2023
Holbox could easily be the inspiration for a Pantone colour inspired by the unique milky green-turquoise colour of the shallow waters of its endless beach. There is a dream-like quality to this place. A brow shaped island on the edge of the Yucatan peninsula. A small unassuming village where the only road traffic allowed is that of golf buggies. One or two places that are stylised enough to feature on your Instagram feed. A few hotels of understated luxury arrayed along the edge of the jungle facing one of the most beautiful beaches you will ever see. The sand is too white and powdery soft to believe and the warm Caribbean waters are calm and inoffensive, inviting adults and children alike to swim and splash around the ever-changing sandbars for hours on end.
Welcome to Isla Holbox! Below you will find your travel guide to paradise on earth.
WHAT TO DO IN HOLBOX?
SPEND THE DAY ON THE BEACH… & THE NEXT ONE… & THE ONE AFTER THAT…
The reason why one goes to Holbox is the beach. If you do not enjoy the beach, then your money will be better spent elsewhere. Although, if all beaches looked like this one, I am sure everyone would be a beach person. Once you are there, go in the water -do not even think of the pool. Walking on those white powdery soft sandbars that change shape and location throughout the day to the whims of the tides and swimming in the shallow milky waters is… paradise.
Sunsets in Holbox are glorious and the beach faces west so stay there until sunset. Quite a few of the beach bars save their best Mexican tunes (performed live) for sunset time. Boat owners join in on the celebrations by blowing the boat horns just before the red sun disappears into the horizon.
START THE DAY WITH YOGA & SPA
Is there a better way to start your day in paradise than a yoga lesson and a massage? Two of the most luxurious hotels Ser Casasandra and Casa Las Tortugas welcome non-guests as well.
EXPERIENCE BIOLUMINESCENCE WITH AN EVENING CANOE RIDE
If you have never heard of bioluminescence before, you should know that it stands for the production and emission of light by a living organism, in our case, plankton. Holbox is a national park and some of the secluded beaches are known to showcase this phenomenon. It is said to be more potent on clear moonless nights when you can see the shallow waters spark and glow.
The bioluminescence canoe ride is one of THE things to do in Holbox. Unfortunately, my personal experience did not live up to the hype… Let me explain.
During our stay in Hotbox, my fiancé and I went on a guided evening canoe ride to Punta Mosquito. We found the tour through our hotel, Ser Casasandra and we joined another small group of people. As the name of the bay suggests, mosquito repellent is obligatory!
It was about 8pm when the tour organisers picked us up and drove us to the tip of the island’s built-up area. From there we took our canoes and off we went into the darkness. I am afraid to say, darkness is the only thing we saw. Only at the end of the canoe ride, when we reached a beach not too far from the hotels, after disturbing the water like maniacs and getting bitten by every mosquito in the vicinity, did we see a few sparkles. Apparently, that particular night was not suitable for viewing the phenomenon (but you would expect that they would tell us this before booking?).
So that was a massive anti-climax for us. Maybe we were unlucky? I am interested to see if other people had different experiences, please let me know your comments!
WHALE SHARK SNORKELLING TOUR
From June to September, whale sharks arrive in the waters near the island to feed and mate. Holbox is considered one of the best places to swim with these friendly giants. There are several operators that organise snorkelling tours.
We visited in April, so we did not get to experience this natural wonder. Note that the northern hemisphere’s summer months constitute the rainy season in the Caribbean…
HOW TO GET AROUND HOLBOX?
Cars are not allowed in Holbox. There are golf buggies that one can rent but you don’t really need them! Just walk or rent a bicycle!
WHERE TO STAY IN HOLBOX?
We spend five nights in Ser Casasandra, a place of understated luxury and friendly faces that I would definitely revisit and recommend. Beautifully simple traditional architecture, antique furniture, yoga lessons, spa treatments; all in front of the most glorious stretch of the white sandy beach. Tasty breakfast, Mexican lunch served on the beach and impressive dining options -probably the most sophisticated on the island- served on the beautiful garden in front of the hotel.
We opted for the most affordable room type. Sadly, it turned out to be noisy in the evening due to music from one of the neighbouring beach bars. However, the hotel management swiftly moved us to one of their suites. In my opinion, that makes for exceptional service. Even though our original room selection entitled us to a pretty but modest room, the suite was, unsurprisingly, quite the treat. If you can afford it, upgrade.
TOP TIP: While researching accommodation in Holbox, Casa Las Tortugas and Punta Caliza also really impressed me. Have a look at those as well.
WHERE TO EAT & DRINK IN HOLBOX?
Mexican cuisine…. yummie! That alone is a reason to travel to Mexico. Combine this with fish freshly caught from the Caribbean, add some Margaritas during sunset and voila! Paradise!
We dined at our hotel, Ser Casasandra, quite a few nights. I would definitely recommend it for more sophisticated flavours with fresh ingredients. The next best elegant dining option is Luma bar and restaurant. The ambience is quite romantic, and the food and cocktails were super tasty -all locally sourced. Don’t miss visiting the boutique adjacent to the restaurant!
A more casual option in the village would be the food market where there are quite a few stalls with different types of Mexican fast food -cheap and cheerful. Last but not least, a great option is Roots restaurant. We sat on picnic benches in a cute courtyard and had tasty lobster pizza (yeap, lobster pizza!) to the tunes of a live band! Delightful.
HOW MANY DAYS SHOULD I STAY? CAN I COMBINE HOLBOX WITH OTHER DESTINATIONS?
We stayed in Holbox for five nights. Note that -for the time being- Holbox is just a simple island village with its main draw being the beach. We used this time to relax and enjoy the sea after having spent quite a busy week in cosmopolitan Tulum for which I have written several blogposts -start here.
HOW TO GET TO HOLBOX?
As I explain in my 2-week Tulum and Holbox itinerary, our time was equally shared between Tulum and Holbox. The closest international airport for both is in Cancun.
While at the arrivals hall in Cancun airport we arranged for all our major transport routes with a company we found at the arrivals hall. They were very professional albeit a bit expensive. We arranged that they take us from Cancun airport to Tulum (1.5h drive) and later from Tulum to Chiquila (2.5h). From there, we got the ferry which was a very inexpensive and short trip (<0.5h -the service is very frequent).
At the end of our trip and as we had pre-arranged, a driver from the same taxi service was waiting for us at Chiquila port from where they drove us back to Cancun airport (approx. 2h).
Long story short, whether you are starting from Cancun or anywhere else in the Yucatan, get to Chiquila (a small coastal town) and hop on the ferry for a super short ride to Isla Holbox. I don’t think you really have to worry about pre-booking.
FINAL THOUGHTS: WHY VISIT HOLBOX?
Holbox is a blissful, tropical paradise. A simple place, a small island where everyone knows each other and where the beauty of the national park and phenomenal beach make up for the potholes, unkept pavements and dark streets. Nevertheless, as its reputation grows, this might change in the next few years. Thankfully, the fact that half of the island is a national park and conservation area might stall uncontrolled development. Go now. Sit on that beach and feel blessed that you can experience the beauty and diversity of our world.
KNOW BEFORE YOU GO -HOLBOX
HOLBOX | CLIMATE:
The tropical climate of the Caribbean ensures hot, sunny and humid days for much of the year (with an average of about 27-31oC). Temperatures are at the lower end of the spectrum from November through February or March; these months comprise the dry season (but also the high season with increased accommodation prices). We visited the Yucatan peninsula for two weeks in April (shoulder season) and got perfect sunshine and 29oC with the exception of one afternoon of rain. During the rainy (low) season, which runs from May through October, expect heavy rains for an hour or two mostly in the afternoons. The hurricane season lasts from June to November, with most of the activity from mid-August to mid-September.
HOLBOX | MONEY:
Don’t be tempted to pay in US dollars (but in Mexican pesos) & always have some cash on you. You are likely to get charged more if paying in US dollars. Most hotels and international restaurants accept cards, smaller establishments may only accept cash.
HOLBOX | LANGUAGE:
Everyone we met in the Yucatan Peninsula spoke conversational English or above.
HOLBOX | SAFETY:
Tourist destinations are generally safe in Mexico. Nevertheless, it’s always worth using your street smarts and general precautions while on holiday in a foreign country (be aware of your surroundings, do not leave valuables around and do not flash jewellery or tons of cash). Some of the streets towards the hotels were not lit during the night. Don’t forget that Holbox is just a little island in the edge of Mexico; it is not polished to the standards of north American and European tourist destinations.
HOLBOX | MISC: DON’T DRINK TAP WATER
Make sure you only drink bottled water. Thankfully most of the restaurants and hotels offer purified rainwater in glass bottles so it is a bit less wasteful. Have ice only on reputable establishments that cater to foreigners (the locals have immunity and may not understand why you would not drink from the tap). Furthermore, I would recommend opting for cooked vegetables (rather than fresh) and fruit that you peel (or they will be washed with the same water that you are trying to avoid).
HOLBOX | MISC: USE MOSQUITO REPELLENT RELIGIOUSLY
Seriously. I do not think I have been bitten more in my life than when I was in the Yucatan Peninsula. Use mosquito repellent first thing in the morning (yeap, I learnt this the hard way) and after sunset.
This is not a sponsored post & I am not affiliated with any of the hotels, restaurants or organisations mentioned.
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