A TRAVEL GUIDE TO IRAKLEIA ISLAND, GREECE
So, you know all about the Cyclades… The dreamy islands with whitewashed houses, windmills, rocky landscape and deep blue water. But, have you heard of the islands known as Small Cyclades and, have you heard of Irakleia? Apart from a moderate percentage of Greeks, not many travellers have. Irakleia is a small island less than two hours from popular Paros, yet a world apart. There is no pharmacy, no banks and no gas station. There is one ATM, two grocery stores and the mini market is also the post office… Irakleia has secluded beaches and hiking trails that lead to infinite views of the Aegean blue. There’s a unique candle lit cave, an underwater wreck of a WWII plane and summer evenings spent under the starry sky in a cute taverna…
Irakleia is a haven from the hustle and bustle of modern life. While we were there, we got a taste of authentic Greek island life, one I have only read about in literature. A life governed by the sea, the wind and the sun through their worst and best. Welcome to off the beaten track Greece.
South Aegean Sea, Greece
Island group:
Cyclades & Minor Cyclades
Area | Population:
18 km2 (7 sq mi) | 141
Capital town:
Panagia (or Chora)
(click on the maps to enlarge)
Off the beaten track travellers, hikers or anyone seeking a peaceful Cycladic island that will transfer you back to simpler times.
Traditional Cycladic whitewashed houses fill the two tiny villages of Irakleia. The sun-drenched rocky hills are beautifully softened by fragrant wildflower and herb bushes and surrounded by the Aegean blue.
Livadi beach is large, sandy and easily accessible though it can get wavy. The southern beaches (only accessible by boat) offer a wilder scenery and crystal clear and calm waters.
Peace & nostalgia. I often talk about that small island feeling, and Irakleia is the epitome of that. So charming!
There is no car hire in Irakleia, but you can easily get by without one (which is what we did). If you don’t like (slightly) hilly walks, rent a motorbike / scooter.
June to September is the best time to visit the Greek islands. Late spring or early autumn may be more appropriate for hikers.
In Irakleia, some businesses might not operate beyond mid-June to early September.
For things to know about Greece including currency, plugs, language & visa requirements, head to:
WHAT TO DO IN IRAKLEIA?
ABOUT AGIOS GEORGIOS & PANAGIA
Irakleia has two tiny villages. On the north end of the island is Agios Georgios, the port and basecamp for most travellers. This is where most accommodation options can be found as well as Agios Georgios beach. On the hills in the middle of the island, the village of Panagia (the Greek nickname for Mary, the mother of Jesus) is the ‘official capital’ of Irakleia. Panagia’s streets offer vantage points where one can admire the minimalistic Cycladic landscape surrounded by the Aegean blue.
Both Irakleia’s villages are built in traditional Cycladic style with demure whitewashed houses and pretty churches and chapels. Nevertheless, this is by no means Mykonos, Santorini or Paros. The villages are cute, albeit modest in both size and scope offering just a handful of places to eat (more on dining below). In Agios Georgios (the port) there are also a few well stocked shops filled with necessities and more. As I mentioned previously, there are no banks in Irakleia, just an ATM. Nevertheless, we were able to use credit / debit cards everywhere. There is also a doctor’s office but no pharmacy.
While this might seem like a bare-bones situation, it’s worth remembering that Naxos, a big island with considerable agriculture and farming, is only 1h away. While we were in Irakleia, we didn’t feel restricted in any way. On the contrary, this dive into the simple life gave us ample time and brain space to relax and unwind.
ABOVE: AGIOS GEORGIOS, BELOW: PANAGIA
GO TO THE BEACH
Beaches in Irakleia do not have umbrellas nor sunloungers for hire and shade is limited. However, the mini market in the port does sell beach umbrellas, hats and other accessories.
NORTH: AGIOS GEORGIOS & LIVADI BEACH
A two minute walk from where the ferry will drop you off is Agios Georgios beach. Sandy and with a line of trees separating it from the road and village, this beach is great for a quick dip but you can hang out here all day too. Watching the daily (very big) ferry navigating the narrow bay never gets old! As it is north facing, some waves and wind are quite common.
A 15min walk from Agios Georgios is Livadi beach. This is an impressive bay, long and wide with turquoise water and soft sand. A row of trees provides some shade in the background and the farthest side of the beach is a bit rocky and… nudist friendly. If you can visit Livadi on a non-windy day, do so. The bay attracts sailing boats and yachts and swimming conditions are superb. However, when we visited the island, the prevalent northern winds were going strong (which is not uncommon) so we abandoned all hope of a calm swim and had fun with the waves. Thankfully, nearby beach restaurant Pera Panta (more on that below) offered shelter from the blusterous conditions.
Overlooking Livadi beach, the ruins of a Hellenistic fortress (circa 300BC) known as ‘Irakleia Fort’ are only a short walk from Livadi and Agios Georgios.
EAST: TOURKOPIGADO BAY
A 5min drive from Panagia, at the end of the road, is the beach and small port of Tourkopigado. This sheltered, east facing bay is a good spot when the north winds blow and best combined with a visit (and traditional lunch) at Panagia. The beach is a mix of pebble, sand and rock, so water shoes might be a good idea. Also, there is nothing around, so, come prepared. We didn’t visit this beach and we heard mixed reviews about it, so… there’s that.
SOUTH: KARVOUNOLAKOS & ALIMNIA BAY
Karvounolakos and Alimnia bay, two secluded beaches on the south coast of Irakleia are probably the stars of the show. They feature calm, crystal clear waters with colours ranging from soft turquoise to emerald green and they are completely untouched, so make sure to bring water, snacks and hats / umbrella.
Part of the charm of the southern beaches is that there are only accessible by boat. Head to the port and you will see several signs for schedule and pricing of the small boats that do the round trip journey to both beaches. The great thing about these boat trips is that they will stop over the wreck of a small WWII German airplane. The sunken plane is visible from the surface as the water is only 10m deep and crystal clear!
Boat trips might be unavailable before mid-June or after the end of August as the island does not get many visitors beyond high season (July & August).
A GREEK SUMMER EXPERIENCE: BOATS TO BEACHES
During the summer, nearly in every Greek island (and in many beach towns on the mainland), you will find boats that pick-up people from local ports and drop them off at various beaches nearby. These boats are not to be confused with tacky ‘party’ boats omnipresent in popular spots worldwide. Think of them more like water buses or water taxi ride-shares. They are usually owned and operated by fishermen and Greek visitors use them all the time too. Trips are quite short, the water is usually calm (since they stay near the shoreline) and the captain usually speaks English.
They are actually my preferred means of beach hopping in Greece as they are very pleasant and affordable. They also provide you with the opportunity to admire the coastline. I particularly love photographing seemingly inaccessible locations with tiny white chapels on, perched on cliffs or on tiny islets!
For larger groups, or if you prefer more privacy, water taxis (for individual hire) usually bob around in the port as well. Prices will vary.
GO HIKING
Irakleia is a great destination for hikers. There are several well-marked hiking trails leading to some of the highlights of the island as well as vantage points with beautiful views of the electric blue sea and the neighbouring islands of the archipelago. Furthermore, the entire island is included in the Natura 2000 network as a Special Protection Area. This is hardly surprising since, despite the July heat, we saw colourful wildflowers adorning the minimalistic Cycladic landscape and the ever-present herbaceous shrubs filled the salty air with their aromas.
The most popular trail starts from Panagia and leads to the impressive cave of Ai Giannis famous for its narrow entrance (you’ll need to get down on all fours to enter) and its subsequent opening into a large candle lit cavern! Furthermore, the far less impressive cave next to Ai Giannis is said to be the cave of Polyphimos, the mythical Cyclops that legendary Odysseus tricked in Homer’s Odyssey! The trail eventually leads to beautiful Alimnia and Karvounolakos beaches.
Some of the other highlights of Irakleia’s hiking trails include reaching Mt. Papas (419m / 1375ft), the island’s tallest peak as well as birdwatching and admiring the dramatic landscape at Merichas bay.
I am not a hiker, so I will not go into detail about the trails as I will be completely out of my depth! A good place to start might be the maps from Terrain Edition. They can be ordered online and delivered worldwide but I have also seen them in many shops around Greece. Anyway, make sure to get properly informed about the condition of the trails, weather, flora and fauna. Safety first!
HOW TO GET AROUND IRAKLEIA?
Agios Georgios, the port, is the starting point for the boat excursions to the southern beaches. Livadi beach is also a 15min walk from here. Getting from the port to Panagia is best done by car or the one taxi that exists on the island (the driver is a really nice guy). I would not recommend trying to walk from the port to Panagia as it is a good hour of walking uphill next to (a nearly trafficless) road. We did the reverse route which is mostly downhill, and it was still quite tiring (at least for non hikers). Anyway, from Panagia, Tourkopigado bay is a 5min drive.
During July and August, there is a community bus that connects Agios Georgios (the port) to Livadi beach, Panagia and Tourkopigado bay. The schedule is posted on key locations around the island (in English too).
DO I NEED TO RENT A CAR IN IRAKLEIA?
Walking, hiking and boating are the best ways to get around… mostly. Sometimes, they are the only way.
There is no car hire in Irakleia. If you wish to rent a car, you will have to bring it on the ferry from another island (but check with your car rental company before you do). It’s also worth noting that there are no roads on the south side of the island, beyond Panagia and Tourkopigado bay. The caves can only be reached via one of the trails and the entirety of the southern coast is only accessible by boat.
Nevertheless, there are scooters and motorbikes for hire; let your hotel / host know and they will direct you appropriately. A motorbike will come in handy if you are staying in Panagia or planning on visiting multiple times.
WHERE TO STAY IN IRAKLEIA?
There is a modest selection of accommodation options in Irakleia mostly in the form of small guest houses and studios. In agreement with the low key character of the island, most of them are very affordable, though pretty basic. By far the most sophisticated option is Speires Suites, a boutique hotel in Agios Georgios (the port). This is where we stayed during our time in Irakleia, and would definitely recommend it to anyone visiting the island.
STAYING AT SPEIRES SUITES
Speires Suites is located at the top of the hill in Agios Georgios, a 10min downhill walk to the port and to beautiful Livadi beach. Its amphitheatrical position allows for uninterrupted views of the beach and pier along with pretty much the entirety of the village. Our spacious room was thoughtfully equipped and benefitted from the elegant simplicity of Cycladic architecture and the beauty of the hotel’s signature view.
The highlight of Speires Suites is probably the spacious terrace. With its abundant greenery and infinite views of the village and blue sea, it felt like a haven from the worries of the world. Its shaded nooks and crannies enables guests to retreat from the world and read a book over breakfast or make new friends over wine and a game of cards (and a tasty cheese platter). We loved chatting to fellow travellers and, most of all, our elegant hostess who was super keen on everyone having a lovely stay.
All in all, during our stay in Speires, we felt like we were guests to the beautiful island house of a long lost friend. It is that warm welcoming atmosphere along with the wonderful setting that made staying in Speires a perfect complement to our trip to Irakleia.
WHERE & WHAT TO EAT & DRINK IN IRAKLEIA?
For its population and size, Irakleia features several dining options. During our stay on the island, we visited quite a few and appreciated the high quality of the food, the lovely ambience and great value for money. I am sure you will too. Note that some businesses might not operate beyond mid-June to early September.
It’s worth mentioning that in Irakleia, and most islands, apart from fresh fish, having meat such as lamb and goat is a great idea as it is typically sourced from local animals that graze freely in the sunny, windswept hills. Nevertheless, vegetarian options are also an integral part of Greek cuisine, so there’s something tasty for most people.
AGIOS GEORGIOS (PORT)
Set on the hill in Agios Georgios, Arakleia is one of the most gastronomic dining options of Irakleia, yet our dishes still felt homely. They were also very tasty! The cute courtyard and balcony overlooking the port are suitable for a relaxed meal or romantic dinner. Speaking of romance, enjoying the sunset from the terrace of Askos made for anotehr delightful evening and so did the homemade ravioli.
Closer to the seaside, Akathi is a lovely Greek taverna with scrumptious traditional dishes, fresh fish and charming service. Right next to it, Perasma was great for a quick snack, crêpe, ice cream or breakfast.
Also close to the port, En Lefko bar is the perfect spot for cocktails (and brunch). Even though the guys and girls who run the place don’t have much (or any) competition, they still created an all day bar that could easily fit in Mykonos or Paros. The terrace offers an almost 360 degree view.
Last but certainly not least, the terrace at Speires Suites makes for the perfect wine bar overlooking the bay and village of Agios Georgios. I sung the praises of Speires on the ‘Where to stay’ section above, so I will only add that the selection of wines from all around Greece (as well as locally produced cheese) was pretty impressive.
LIVADI BEACH
Right next to Livadi beach, Pera Panta is a delightful place to spend a couple of hours in the shade. Our lunch there was incredibly tasty and we really appreciated the friendly service. Furthermore, as with most places in Irakleia, the elegant setting and sea view did not come with a huge price tag which is always a huge plus! Open all day long.
PANAGIA
We visited Panagia during the afternoon, so we didn’t sit down for a meal. Nevertheless, everyone we had a chat with recommended I Drosia, a traditional Greek taverna, as well as To Steki tis Anios which is both a bakery and grill.
HOW MANY DAYS SHOULD I STAY IN IRAKLEIA?
Like many of the smaller Greek islands, you can get a flavour of Irakleia in a weekend. Nevertheless, if you enjoy peaceful, off the beaten track destinations, stay for a week and enjoy life in the slow lane.
Either way, if you plan on hitting the hiking trails or if you are keen on boat trips, each day will be filled with wonderful adventures! Not that kind of adventurer? Spend your days on the beach and your evenings in one of the cute tavernas!
HOW TO GET TO IRAKLEIA? ISLAND HOPPING TIPS & ITINERARIES
The best way of visiting Irakleia is by combining your stay on the island with a visit to one of the bigger islands close by such as beautiful Naxos (1h) and Paros (2h). From Athens, you can get to Paros and Naxos by boat (3-4h) or a 45min flight as both islands have small domestic airports.
Needless to say, you can get to Irakleia straight from Athens. This takes about 6h by boat.
AN ISLAND HOPPING EXTRAVAGANZA
If you are travelling from abroad and flying straight to Mykonos or Santorini, visiting Irakleia can be part of a thrilling island hopping trip! This is how my fiancé and I visited Irakleia and I would definitely recommend it if you have ten days to two weeks (the more, the better):
- Start at either Mykonos or Santorini and after spending as many days there are as you like, get the catamaran to Koufonisia (1.5-2h). Koufonisia is one of my favourite places in Greece and it will be yours too if you love spending time on white sandy beaches with turquoise water!
- After spending as many days as you like in Koufonisia, head to Irakleia (less than 1h) with one of the many boat services, all of which also stop at nearby Schinoussa, another beautiful and off the beaten track island that’s worth visiting!
- From Irakleia, hop on the ferry to Paros or Naxos. From there, you can easily make your way to Athens (or even Thessaloniki) by boat or plane.
- If you are starting from Santorini, consider including stunning Amorgos on your island hopping trip. From there, catch one of the ferries or catamarans to Koufonisia and from then onwards to Irakleia.
Have a look at my suggested itineraries below. They may seem a bit intense as I tried to include as many islands as possible but you can visit less islands and take it slow!
Best suited for:
BEACH BUMS | FOODIES | EXPLORERS | OFF THE BEATEN TRACK TRAVELLERS
– Stay on each island as long as you like.
– You can reverse the route or skip / add islands.
– Itinerary easily done with public ferries.
(click on the itinerary to enlarge)
Best suited for:
BEACH BUMS | FOODIES | EXPLORERS | DIVERS | OFF THE BEATEN TRACK TRAVELLERS
– Stay on each island as long as you like.
– You can reverse the route or skip / add islands.
– Itinerary easily done with public ferries.
(click on the itinerary to enlarge)
TRAVELLING AROUND THE SMALL CYCLADES ISLANDS: EXPRESS SKOPELITIS
There are many different ferry and catamaran companies that connect the islands known as ‘Small Cyclades’ (Koufonisia, Donousa, Schinoussa, Irakleia) to each other and to major islands nearby (more on that below). However, if you can’t find a convenient route for you, check out Express Skopelitis (Small Cyclades Line). This is a small, local company and as such, their routes are not included in some search engines.
Small Cyclades Line have been around for decades (starting operations way before anyone was travelling to the islands there) and travel year round. I have travelled with them and they are great for the short journeys between Naxos, Irakleia, Schinoussa and Koufonisia. I should note that some passengers, on windy days, may find the longer journey (in the open sea) to Amorgos, Donousa or Santorini, a bit uncomfortable, as the boat is smaller than the huge ferries and catamarans that typically travel in the Aegean Sea.
HOW TO BOOK BOAT / PLANE TICKETS TO THE GREEK ISLANDS
I am fully aware that for non-Greeks, checking itineraries and booking ferries or planes for the Greek islands may sound complicated and overwhelming. But that’s what I am here for!
I have explained all about boat services, planes routes and island hopping in the Cyclades and Dodecanese islands in the blog posts linked below. If you are travelling in July or August, I would recommend booking boat and plane tickets early -May at the latest. Most bookings can be made online.
PS. Transiting to the islands via Athens? Make sure to read all about Athens’ airport and ports and how to get from plane to boat and vice versa:
FINAL THOUGHTS: WHY VISIT IRAKLEIA?
Visit Irakleia to get a glimpse of how (the smaller) Greek islands were 20 years ago. If you enjoy peaceful beaches, incredible hikes and simple but tasty food, this is the place for you. Furthermore, this small island can offer adventure and relaxation in equal dose, not to mention incredible value for money. While travelling the Cycladic archipelago, Irakleia is a stop that will thrill travellers who love off the beaten track travel and leave a mark on those who appreciate unique corners of the world.
This is not a sponsored post & I am not affiliated with any of the hotels, restaurants or organisations mentioned.
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