Koufonisia: Beach bumming in the most exotic Greek islands

A TRAVEL GUIDE TO KOUFONISIA ISLANDS, GREECE

last updated: May 2023

This blog post comes with a warning for all beach lovers out there. You might get seriously addicted. This pair of Greek islands, Ano & Kato Koufonisi -jointly named Koufonisia- might just be the reason to skip the long haul flight to the Caribbean and think twice about forking out on the Maldives. Ano Koufonisi has a population of 399; one can cross the island on foot in 2 hours. Kato Koufonisi is uninhabited. Come summer and they transform into a playground for beach bums of all ages spending their days in the tropical turquoise waters, sea caves and sand dunes. 

Given the lilliputian size of Ano Koufonisi, the variety (and beauty) of its beaches as well as bars and restaurants is insane. On the other hand, if it is isolation you are after, Kato Koufonisi will make you feel like Robinson Crusoe! Greeks in the know often say that when visiting Koufonisia for the first time, be prepared to change your boat tickets multiple times. While I was there, I wished I could too…

NEVER A DULL MOMENT IN KOUFONISIA, PRESENT & PAST

This corner of the Aegean has not always been so sparsely populated and unexplored. In fact, the area is steeped in history. 

Archaeological excavations have revealed that Ano & Kato Koufonisi along with uninhabited neighbour Keros island were an integral part of the Cycladic civilisation which flourished in the Aegean more than 2000 years before the Parthenon was built! Keros, in fact, is considered one of Greece’s first urban centres and has been at the forefront of many archaeological discoveries such as the famous idols exhibited in the Cycladic Museum in Athens. The abstract forms of the figurines have influenced several artists, such as Modigliani, Giacometti, Barbara Hepworth, Henry Moore, Ai Weiwei…

In medieval times, pirates used to roam the area, hiding their loot in the many caves. Fast forward to post WWII, financial hardship made the islanders from all three islands gather into Ano Koufonisi. Around the same time, Keros’ treasures started coming to light, through legal or illegal means. Today, the island is still being studied by archaeologists. While frolicking in one of the numerous beaches of Ano Koufonisi, remember that Keros, the small mountainous island sprawling opposite you, like the figure of a lady lazily lying on its side, was once considered a gate to the underworld!

WHAT TO DO IN KOUFONISIA?

SPEND THE DAY ON THE BEACH IN ANO KOUFONISI

Days in Koufonisia are spend on the beach. There is not much else to do, and once you see the stunning colour of the water there is nothing else you will want to do!

The great thing about Ano Koufonisi is that you can access almost all beaches on foot via the same coastal path along the southeast side of the island. It takes about one hour or so from Chora (the town) to Pori (the furthermost beach) but the aromas from the fragrant shrubs combined with the sea air will keep you going despite the strong sun. The footpath is unpaved but flat and offers stunning views of almost all beaches and coves. There are also frequent public boats that stop in all the main beaches, if you are feeling lazy. 

The other great thing about Ano Koufonisi is that its southern beaches are typically not wavy at all as they are not exposed to strong northern winds. Nevertheless, if you love dead calm waters or if you are travelling with children and it is a windy day, it is worth checking the wind direction and choosing the beach accordingly; ask a local if in doubt. 

There are no sunbeds or umbrellas anywhere on the island and natural shade is hard to find. Some of the beach restaurants, though, do offer a few shaded sunbeds in their courtyard. When we visited, most people had their own umbrellas or beach tents. I would recommend investing in one if you are planning to stay on the beach all day. There are shops on the island with all kinds of beach paraphernalia. 

THE 5 MAIN BEACHES

Apart from countless smaller coves, there are 5 main beaches on the island, all featuring soft, light coloured sand and clear turquoise water. They are child friendly and easily accessible.

Starting from Chora and walking east there is:

1. Ammos beach

This beach is at the edge of Chora. You can see it the moment you step off the boat. While the turquoise water is a sight for sore eyes, it does lack a bit of charm due to the road close to it. Nevertheless, the soft whitish sand and proximity to everything means that you will probably not resist swimming here at some point, even if it is just for a quick dip!

2 & 3. Finikas & Fanos beach

These two beaches are almost attached. They both feature turquoise water and whitish soft sand. There is a beach restaurant in both (more on that below). 

4. Italida beach

This was my favourite beach, and an absolute must visit. The sandy part is a bit wider here and there are no buildings around which makes the landscape wild and impressive. Fanos beach is close so you can still pop there if you get hungry or thirsty. 

5. Pori beach

The large bay of Pori is the highlight of the island, and another must visit beach. The geography makes it ideal for boats to moor so the beautiful landscape is adorned with various sailing boats lazily bobbing along on the turquoise water. Despite its long length, it gets very busy in high season. With its spectacular scenery, two beach restaurants (more on that below) and calm waters, it is easy to understand why. 

Pori beach is also the gateway to Gala; a tiny secret beach at the bottom of some very tall cliffs at the outer edge of the bay. We didn’t visit it as we found the heat too much to do more walking, but I heard that it is a stunning natural feature. Let me know if you do!

SECRET COVES, ROCK POOLS & A BEACH CRAWL

As we walked along the coastal path from Chora to Pori, we encountered countless smaller beaches and coves tucked in between the rock formations. Some were easily accessible and some less so. There are all incredibly beautiful, some pebbled or just a bit wilder with shallow caves underneath the white rocks. We really didn’t know which one to choose! One day, we even started a beach crawl (if you don’t know what I mean, google UK pub crawl). Our crawl didn’t involve any alcohol though, just a dip in every beach we encountered. We quickly run out of steam…  

Also, there are two natural rock pools, if you fancy a bit more of an adventure. The most famous one is called Pisina (meaning pool in Greek) and is situated between Italida and Pori. The other one has no name, but it is closer to Chora on the peninsula before the first beach. Water shoes are strongly recommended if you fancy a dip!

Lastly, on the west side of Chora, we visited Loutro beach. It is a small, pebbled cove with crystal clear water. An idyllic location to go for a late afternoon swim if you don’t fancy walking too far from Chora and as an alternative to Ammos beach. 

VISIT KATO KOUFONISI

Fancy a visit to the wild side? Hop on one of the public boats visiting uninhabited Kato Koufonisi island and immerse yourself in a world of wild beauty. 

It will take less than 20mins to cross the narrow channel between Ano and Kato Koufonisi. Yet, once the boat leaves you on Nero beach, it feels… remote. And it is. No mobile reception and no beach huts with essentials. It’s just you, the goats and other beach bums frolicking ‘au naturel’ in the long, sandy beach. A favourite with nudists and free spirits in general. Did you notice the wild campers on the boat bringing water, food and other necessities to Kato Koufonisi? They are the ones whose tents you can also see from the boat along the east side of the island. 

The boat from Ano to Kato Koufonisi does two stops. One at Panagia bay where there is a quite famous traditional restaurant (their speciality is goat!) and another stop in Nero beach. Note though that Kato Koufonisi is hilly and wild, so I am not sure if visiting both in one go is easy. There is only a hiking path connecting the two and I doubt that it is a walk in the park -unless you are a hiker.  

All in all, if you are visiting Nero beach, make sure you bring water and food and you don’t mind nudists, a few friendly goats and lack of shade. While the beach is sandy, long, with crystal clear blue water and overall lovely, it lacks the eye candy quality of the turquoise waters of Ano Koufonisi. In my opinion, it is worth going if you believe that you will appreciate the wild experience and serenity of the island. Or if you stay in Koufonisia for two weeks. 

A NOTE ON WILD CAMPING:

In case you are getting excited about it. Wild (overnight) camping in Greece is against the law and offenders are hit with hefty fines. Nevertheless, the case of Kato Koufonisi is the country’s worst kept secret and the local police are generally tolerant. Indeed, the issue of whether the law should be abolished or not is under discussion every summer, with the associated environmental and fire risks being the main concerns. In any case, don’t say I didn’t warn you!

SPEND THE EVENING IN CHORA 

The capital town, Chora, is a typical example of Cycladic architecture consisting of cute sugar cube houses with colourful shutters and narrow cobblestone streets. On the outskirts of town, there are a few windmills and a quaint bay next to a traditional boatyard. Does it sound picture perfect? Indeed, it is. 

Make sure you visit Chora while there is still some daylight, as you will definitely want to take some photos and, overall explore! There are plenty of restaurants, cafes, bars and boutiques to keep you busy for days (more on that below), so head for cocktails and dinner after your walk. The various shops are also treasure troves for tasteful summer fashion, jewellery and even noteworthy Cycladic inspired art.   

HOW TO GET AROUND IN ANO KOUFONISI?

Even though one can bring a car to the island on a ferry, Ano Koufonisi is the perfect place to dump the car and walk everywhere. All beaches east of Chora are accessible via the same seaside footpath, the longest distance being an hour or so easy hike (more of a walk) from Chora to Pori beach. The terrain is flat and offers stunning sea views. 

Not in the mood for the long walk? Hop on the traditional boat that leaves every half hour from the port and stops at all the main beaches east of Chora. 

Lastly, if you get tired, we did see one (!) taxi roaming around the island. Also, even though the port is at the edge of Chora -not far at all- most hotels and B&Bs have a minivan to take you and your luggage to the port. Bike hire is also available. 

TOP TIP: Most hotels and B&Bs are located in Chora. However, if your accommodation is close to Pori beach, getting to Chora in the evening on foot might be tricky. The seaside footpath is only paved and lit halfway -from Chora up until Fanos beach. The alternative is to walk inland on the main road. This is quicker but more tiring as there is some elevation to it and there is no designated pavement for pedestrians. It is a road in the middle of nowhere! Consider hiring a bike. If you are not into bikes or if you are travelling with young children, rent a car from nearby Naxos island. Or wherever you are coming from. There is no car hire on the island. 

WHERE TO STAY IN KOUFONISIA?

Despite being an off the beaten track destination for most foreigners, Koufonisia are very popular with Greeks as well as a fair few Italians and French visitors. I cannot stress enough how important it is to start your research early and book in the beginning of winter, especially if you plan to visit in July or August. 

RECOMMENDATIONS FOR ACCOMMODATION IN KOUFONISIA

I have visited Koufonisia twice. Below you will find a list of accommodation options that caught my eye; the first one is an actual windmill! Note, that most B&Bs and hotels cannot be found on any of the popular online booking platforms. Charming Koufonisia remain, in many things, old school. 

Windmill Villa | Aeris Suites | Blue Harpist | Eros Keros | Teal Blue | Ionathan Koufonisia Suites | Oceanides Residence | Portes Houses | Aegean Colors | Sohoro residences | Nysis Koufonisia

During our first visit to the island, I didn’t book anything until the very last minute… I thus struggled to find accommodation and ended up somewhere I would not really recommend! However, on our second visit to the island we stayed in Nysis Koufonisia and loved it, more on that next.

STAYING AT NYSIS KOUFONISIA

Nysis Koufonisia is a brand new boutique hotel located in a quiet spot just a 5-minute walk from the town. It features a small collection of spacious suites which have been designed in classic Cycladic style harmoniously blended with modern architectural touches set amidst Mediterranean herb bushes, cacti and bougainvilleas.

Our very spacious suite was simple and luxurious at the same time, evoking the demure beauty of the island and simple pleasures of summertime. This relaxing, less is more, tone was also set at breakfast, when a large picnic basket filled to the brim with local goodies and Greek staples was brought to us to enjoy in the peace and privacy of our terrace. I should also mention that the hostess and stuff were super friendly and attentive making us feel relaxed and cared for.

All in all, our stay in Nysis perfectly complemented our trip to gorgeous Koufonisia and I would definitely recommend it to anyone wishing to visit the island.

WHERE & WHAT TO EAT & DRINK IN KOUFONISIA?

I am happy to report that we ate and drunk very well in Koufonisia. Prices were reasonable, apart from very few exceptions. To give you some context, before Koufonisia we were in Santorini. Unsurprisingly, Koufonisia prices were not even remotely close to the average Santorini prices.

TRADITIONAL GREEK, FRESH FISH & SEAFOOD

We enjoyed fresh fish and traditional dishes in Capetan Nikolas; if you are after the famous Koufonisia lobster pasta (or just lobster) you will need to call ahead and reserve it! Another option for traditional Greek cuisine is Remetzo; the value for money is exceptional. Also, Karnagio taverna is known for its mezedes (tapas) and fresh fish and is set on a very romantic location. Lastly, Mikres Cyclades offer a more gastronomic take on Greek cuisine. The menu looked scrumptious, and it was also super busy every evening. We were not able to get a table, so make sure to call in advance! 

INTERNATIONAL CUISINE

We also enjoyed a more modern themed dinner in Jet; our pasta dishes were lovely and we really liked the bohemian ambience. If you fancy a burger (and a cocktail) head over to Guacamole; we didn’t miss burgers that much so didn’t try it but there was a queue every evening! 

STREET FOOD

We had amazing souvlaki in Souvlaki Sti Strofi. Apart from the value for money, the great thing about it is that you can also sit down in one of the tables on the cute cobblestone street. Furthermore, we really liked our crepe in Pirata Nero. Our table was ideally located for people watching and mingling, but there are also tables overlooking the port. Lastly, before heading to the beach, drop by Giorgoula’s bakery and grab one of their traditional savoury pies to have on the beach. 

BEACH BARS / RESTAURANTS

There are two pretty beach restaurants in Pori. We had a very scrumptious lunch in Wave; modern Greek cuisine focused on seafood. I have also heard very good things about Kalofeggo, more of a gourmet experience though.  

We also had a tasty lunch in Fanos beach; Fanos seaside is a classic beach bear with options varying from sandwiches to a proper Greek meal.  

FOR BREAKFAST & ALL DAY

Hands down the best breakfast / brunch place and all-day bar in Koufonisia is Sorokos. The setting is magnificent, on the end of the pier with its own tiny beach. One of my favourite memories of our time on the island was swimming in the turquoise water, then coming out to a cold marguerita! The waitress was even signalling us while we were in the water to keep the drinks inside so that they don’t melt in the sun. Customer care indeed! The breakfast and sandwiches were excellent too. 

EVENING DRINKS

Such a small island, so many choices! 

For romantic, chillout ambience, head towards the port. We had excellent coctails in Mylos (windmill) where we also witnessed a wedding proposal! The concept store inside the windmill is cool too. Close to Mylos is Nelipot which stays open till early in the morning. Next to that is Jet which we visited on two different occasions, one for food and one for drinks -I loved the bohemian music. 

In the heart of Chora, Astrolouloudo (starflower) and Koufochorio (the village of the deaf or the hollows, inspired from the name of the island!) are situated one opposite the other creating a fantastic summer atmosphere. In other words, ideally located for flirting or just people watching! 

On the other side of town, towards the beaches, Sorocos bar, as I mentioned earlier, will have you dreaming about being there, long after your trip is over. 

This list is by no means exhaustive! I can think of quite a few more places which should be good. For example, we liked the look of Horaki and Scholio for drinks and a bit of food and quite a few others too, but we can only eat and drink so much! 

HOW MANY DAYS SHOULD I STAY IN KOUFONISIA? 

We stayed in Koufonisia for 5 nights. It was enough time to visit all the main beaches and have a cocktail or two in most of the bars which caught our eye. However, as I mentioned in the beginning of this blog post, this is the kind of place that seduces you with its stunning natural beauty and easy-going island life. And you just want more. Furthermore, apart from ticking off all the main beaches, there are all the small coves and natural pools that you want to dip your feet in again and again. 

All in all, the fact that the island is small does not mean that you’ll get bored. You won’t. Unless you hate spending time on a gorgeous beach. If that is the case, though, you are reading the wrong blog post! 

HOW TO GET TO KOUFONISIA? ISLAND HOPPING TIPS & ITINERARIES

Koufonisia may sound like a far flung, remote destination, but they are not that hard to get to even from abroad. 

The easiest way to get to the islands from Europe would be to fly direct to Mykonos or Santorini. From there, it will take about 1.5h with a high-speed boat to reach Ano Koufonisi. Depending on your flight times, you may need to spend a night in Mykonos or Santorini but who would argue with that? In my opinion, the best Greek island trips combine both a superstar island and on one of its off the beaten track neighbours. This way you get a taste of all the best experiences Greece has to offer. 

If you are starting your trip from Athens, hop in one of the high-speed catamarans. You will be sipping coctails in Koufonisia in 5 hours. Conventional ferries take about 7 hours, but they are more affordable. 

Ano Koufonisi is also a perfect stop in an island-hopping trip in the Cyclades. The boats from Athens connect it to so many islands. Beachy Naxos and wild beauty Amorgos are both a 40min direct trip with a high speed catamaran. If you are keen on discovering even more off the beaten track destinations, hop on legendary Express Skopelitis which travels around Minor Cyclades all year round. I have already explored Schinoussa and Irakleia and plan on visiting Donousa with my next visit to Koufonisia! 

Have a look at my suggested itineraries below. Thanks to Koufonisia’s favourable location, the possibilities are endless!

FINAL THOUGHTS -WHY VISIT KOUFONISIA?

What a stunning little corner of the world this is! An unexpected blend of exotic beaches with a charming traditional Cycladic town. Natural rock pools, sea caves, white sandy beaches all within a stone’s throw from narrow cobblestone streets and white cubic houses with colourful shutters. Friendly people, fresh fish, scrumptious Greek cuisine and lively bars to celebrate summer under the starry sky. Not to mention the home of an incredible civilisation, echoing millennia later… What else can one want?