Patmos island: A Greek revelation

A TRAVEL GUIDE TO PATMOS, GREECE

last updated: May 2023

The island of Patmos looks like a picture-perfect postcard of an idyllic Greek island. White washed houses, narrow cobbled streets, lively port and beaches with crystal clear water. But there is more. Just a glimpse of the byzantine monastery of St John which towers over charming Chora (Patmos town) and you will be reminded that this island, known as the ‘Island of Revelation’, was the backdrop for St. John’s prophetic visions of the Apocalypse.

In modern times, Patmos is a beautiful destination for those seeking a demure, peaceful and elegant Greek island which has only recently started being in the radar of international travellers.

WHAT TO DO IN PATMOS?

VISIT A UNESCO WORLD HERITAGE MONUMENT – PERFECT FOR COCKTAIL HOUR!

Unless you are a devout Christian, a religion historian or Greek, you will probably not know that visiting the island of Patmos was (and for many still is) a Christian pilgrimage to the cave of Revelation. This is the cave where St John the Theologian lived for two years and wrote the famous book of Revelation.

The significance of the island in Christian history led to the erection of the Monastery of St John in 1088AD which towers over beautiful Chora (Patmos town); an allegorical representation of heaven and earth.

Today, the historical site comprising Chora, the Monastery of St John and the Cave of the Apocalypse is a UNESCO World Heritage Monument.

CHORA

The capital town of Chora is set high above sea level and overlooks the impressive sprawl of bays on the east side of the island. It is car-free, small, charming and peaceful. Everywhere you look there are white washed houses with colourful shutters surrounded by a labyrinth of alleys. Every once in a while you can peak inside the pretty courtyards that some of the larger houses feature and admire the stone floor mosaics. Walk towards the edge of town and you can admire the solemn barren cliffs towering over the infinite blue of the Aegean Sea.

Resist the temptation of getting lost in the cobbled streets and soon enough you will find the most charming little square, a little bubble of busyness in the otherwise peaceful scenery. Cute traditional tavernas, colourful cocktail bars and a handful of elegant restaurants and boutiques comprise the social scene of the tiny town.

Overall, we spend three magical evenings in Chora, drinking, dining and people watching. I would easily say that Patmos’ Chora is amongst the most beautiful traditional towns in the Greek islands. 

ST JOHN MONASTERY

At the top of Chora, keeping a watchful eye over the whole island, the Monastery of St John is a working monastery and a monument of religious and architectural history dating back to 1088AD. From the outside, the structure resembles a castle fortified with thick walls, towers and ramparts, a necessary design choice considering the era and precious artefacts that the monks safeguard to this day.

Today, parts of the monastery are open to the public. We visited one late afternoon and admired the impressive construction and the Byzantine monastic architecture of the interior with its tall church bells, domed corridors and pebbled courtyards. There is also a museum of ecclesiastic and historical artefacts.

I would recommend visiting the Monastery of St John if you are a historical architecture or photography enthusiast.  

CAVE OF THE APOCALYPSE

Last but not least, the Cave of the Apocalypse is an intriguing place for believers, those interested in religious history or fascinated by the end of days; it is actually very busy! As I mentioned previously, this is the cave where St John the Theologian lived for two years and wrote the book of Revelation.

I am Greek so, having heard loads about it, I was curious to see it. I also dragged my English boyfriend with me. He knew nothing about it but found it interesting as well. It is a natural cave retrofitted into a chapel and you can catch a quick narration of the story of one of the most famous disciples of Jesus.

The Cave of the Apocalypse is situated between Chora and Skala, the port of the island; you will need a car or a taxi to get there.

SPEND THE EVENING IN SKALA

Patmos is an island of juxtapositions. Religious monuments next to cocktail bars, walled courtyards next to 360-degree view terraces and the reserved elegance of Chora next to the frilly busyness of Skala, the island’s port and most populous settlement.

Even though Chora is the capital of Patmos, Skala has all the amenities. Pastry shops and bakeries, shops with beach inflatables and racquets (necessities!) as well as banks, pharmacies, a police station etc. There is also a variety of restaurants and bars inside shaded courtyards and along the beach.

We spend one evening in Skala and, even though the setting is not as unique as Chora’s, we found it to be a nice little seaside village with plenty of affordable meal options. Our dinner in Skala was in a restaurant right on the beach where seafood was caught on the day. Still, our meal was significantly less expensive compared to the ones we had in Chora and Grikos Bay.      

SPEND THE DAY ON THE BEACH

Patmos has a variety of beautiful beaches and it caters for many types of beach lovers. Those who prefer fine sand, those who require sun loungers, those who like remote beaches, those who need a traditional feast after their morning dip and so on… If you have ever lived in Greece or have Greek friends, you will know that these are issues worthy of careful consideration!

I made a note of the best beaches of the island on the travel map in the beginning of this blog post. Chat to any local and they will be happy to talk you through all the details about any beach you might be interested in. Beach chat is Greek hospitality 101!

GRIKOS BAY

Our hotel, Patmos Aktis Suites & Spa (more on this further below) was on Grikos bay. The water there is super calm and crystal clear and the bay has soft, thick sand. From the ridiculously comfortable hotel sun loungers we gazed at the ‘stone of Kalikatsou‘, a big rock connected to the mainland by a narrow strip of land. The slick sailing yachts mooring lazily in the entrance of the bay also made for a picture perfect view.

Naturally, the beach is not exclusive to hotel guests; Greek law assures free public access to all beaches. However, if you fancy some ‘finesse’ to your sunbathing, rent a hotel umbrella and sun loungers for the day for a fee; give them a call first to check availability.

TAKE A BOAT RIDE TO THE NEIGHBOURING ISLETS

A cruise to the neighbouring islets of Arkoi and Marathos is a feast for the eyes, full of unspoiled beaches, rocky islets, turquoise-coloured beaches, outstanding crystal clear water and traditional Greek villages. The highlight is the beach of Tiganakia (it means frying pan in Greek… because it lacks shade!) which is a popular spot for swimming; the colour of the water and quality of sand rival those of the Maldives.

One can visit these small islands with day cruises starting from Skala or with speedboat cruises organised by private excursion companies (of which there are quite a few on the island). If you are staying at Patmos Aktis, the hotel can organise this for you.

Unfortunately, when we visited the island, it was too windy (out in the open sea –the island was just blissfully breezy) and were not able to go. One for next time, as we cannot wait to go back to Patmos!

HOW TO GET AROUND PATMOS?

Patmos has a population of approx. 3000. The island is large and populous enough to have plenty of taxis and several bus routes connecting the various villages. From Skala, there are small boats for many of the beaches too.

Chora itself is car-free but there is a taxi rank at its footsteps. In high summer it gets busy, so, if you don’t see any taxis, look out for the sign with the taxi service phone number. Once you call them, you might need to wait 15mins or so before your car arrives. On the plus side, you can use this time for taking a few more photos from the many vantage points around there.

There is a taxi rank in the port (Skala) with plenty of taxis on stand-by when boats arrive.

More information on taxis and buses can be found here.

DO I NEED TO RENT A CAR IN PATMOS?

Hiring a car will certainly enable you to explore the island more, especially if you are keen on visiting a different beach every day. Nevertheless, as I mentioned previously, Patmos does have a fairly good taxi and bus service; we didn’t hire a car and still had an amazing trip. Naturally, choosing your accommodation wisely is essential if you are not renting a car. My advise? Decide where you want to be nearest at (beach, Chora, Skala) and find accommodation there. Call a taxi or take the bus to visit the rest of the island.

WHERE TO STAY IN PATMOS?

RECOMMENDATIONS FOR ACCOMMODATION IN PATMOS

While researching accommodation in Patmos, I came across Archontariki in Chora. The small boutique hotel is housed in a traditional building with stunning terraces and courtyards, so, definitely check it out if you are on the hunt for luxury accommodation in Chora. Similarly, Pagostas is a three-room guesthouse located in the oldest part of Chora in a restored private residence originally built in 1597. The local craftsmanship of the embroidered textiles and vintage pottery almost outshines the beautiful traditional architecture inspired by the monastic way of life.

Nevertheless, for our 6-day stay in Patmos, we wanted a boutique hotel near the beach so we opted for Patmos Aktis Suites & Spa.

STAYING AT PATMOS AKTIS SUITES & SPA

I cannot rave enough about our hotel, Patmos Aktis Suites & Spa, located in front of the sandy beach of Grikos bay, a 10-15min drive from Chora and Skala. The hotel’s buildings interpret Cycladic architecture in a modern way while the facilities are worthy of its 5* status.

We spent five nights in the Maisonette, a two storey bungalow with a small garden and a private mini swimming pool. What a treat! The ground floor consisted of a beautiful living room and bathroom. The large bedroom, balcony and additional bathroom were on the top floor. With white as the primary colour, details of weathered timber, driftwood and concrete flooring created an aesthetically pleasing and relaxing environment.

The hotel has two restaurants on site. Cielo e mare constitutes one of the most elegant dining options on the island in an all-white setting overlooking the bay. Plefsis is a cute taverna offering scrumptious traditional Greek cuisine right next to the beach.

I talked about the beautiful beach at serene Grikos bay a bit earlier in this blog post. The hotel offers guests umbrellas and sun loungers comfortable enough to spend the night!

Last but not least, the hotel features Anasa spa, a peaceful space offering a variety of spa services, an indoor swimming pool and a gym. I had an incredible deep tissue massage. However, what I remember most vividly are the cold lavender scented towels brought to us at the beach. What an amazing treat on a hot day under the scorching sun!  

Overall, our six day stay in Patmos Aktis Suites & Spa complemented our trip to beautiful Patmos in the best way possible. If it is understated luxury you are seeking, in a beautiful beach setting, definitely check it out.

WHERE TO EAT & DRINK IN PATMOS?

CHORA

The lovely square of Chora is the perfect place to have a drink and watch beautifully tanned people in their colourful summer outfits (maybe not that colourful –Greek people do stick with white and shades of blue) socialising in Pougki, Thalami, Stoa and Astivi.    

For our first evening in Chora, we had dinner in Vaggelis, a polished version of a Greek taverna. We enjoyed all the traditional dishes; grilled octopus and calamari, meatballs with tomato sauce and Greek salad with a massive slab of feta on top. On one of our other visits to Chora, we savoured Greek fusion dishes in Astivi’s beautiful terrace.

SKALA

In Skala, we really enjoyed the freshly caught fish in Tzivaeri, right on the beach.  

GRIKOS BAY

We loved the traditional dishes in Plefsis, a cute taverna set right on the beach in Grikos bay.

HOW MANY DAYS SHOULD I STAY IN PATMOS?

We stayed in Patmos for six days and five nights. It was the appropriate amount of time to explore Chora (including the Monastery and the Cave) and Skala. We were also able to spend some quiet evenings relaxing in our hotel in Grikos bay.

Would we have stayed longer? Of course! We could easily spend a month exploring beaches and trying out a different taverna and cocktail bar every night. Having said that, if you only have a weekend at your disposal, you can still get a good idea of what Patmos is all about. So, don’t hesitate to choose the island for a shorter island escape.

Patmos is one of those magical places where you can be as relaxed or as busy as you choose to be. 

HOW TO GET TO PATMOS? ISLAND HOPPING TIPS & ITINERARIES

Patmos does not have an airport but there are plenty of islands nearby which do.

From Athens, you can fly to nearby islands Samos, Leros or Kalymnos. Then, take the Dodekanisos Express ferry; it connects all the islands in the Dodecanese (the island group in the south east Aegean sea). There is also a boat from Athens by Blue Star Ferries. However, that it is quite a long journey.

If you are travelling from abroad, the quickest route would be flying to Kos island and catching the Dodekanisos Express ferry.

If you are keen on visiting a larger island and maybe staying in a large resort, take the Dodekanisos Express from Patmos all the way to the end of the route to Rhodes. Famous for its beaches, history and medieval architecture, it can also be a handy stopover; you can fly straight to Rhodes from many European airports (and Athens).

After our stay in Patmos we hopped onto the ferry and spent the weekend in the island of Symi. Symi is even smaller than Patmos but it is unbelievably beautiful and unique.

Have a look at the suggested island hopping itineraries below!

FINAL THOUGHTS: WHY VISIT PATMOS?

Patmos is the perfect island for those who seek an under-the-radar destination with oodles of charm and a certain finesse. While it is not the easiest island to reach, it can be combined with other small gems or more well known Greek islands. Either way, it is certainly worth the trip. Spectacular Chora and the variety of beaches create the perfect backdrop for many wonderful days and evenings, especially if you are seeking a relaxing yet sophisticated break and a taste of Greek summertime.