Schinousa: Peace & relaxation in the Greek island of the sun

A TRAVEL GUIDE TO SCHINOUSA ISLAND, GREECE

‘Simplicity is the ultimate sophistication’. I always think of Leonardo DaVinci’s immortal words when I talk about the Cyclades, the famous archipelago of Greek islands floating serenely in the centre of the Aegean Sea. The architecture, the landscape, the colours are all brilliantly uncomplicated yet they are vibrant and evocative. And so is life there. Naturally, this ode to stunning simplicity sounds truer in the more obscure corners of the archipelago. You wouldn’t call Mykonos a simple place, would you?

So, in search of that brilliant simplicity, we found ourselves in the island of Schinousa. Approximately a 2h boat ride from popular Paros and even less from beachy Naxos lies a small island (population: 256) of authentic beauty and eternal calmness. In this blog post, we’ll explore this small hidden gem that is perfect for travellers who love beach and maritime adventures, pure Cycladic landscapes and under the radar destinations.

WHAT TO DO IN SCHINOUSA?

SPEND THE DAY ON THE BEACH

Spending the day on the beach, swimming, sunbathing or chilling in the shade, is one of the main things to do in Greece during the summer. Schinousa is no exception.

There are several sandy beaches with crystal clear water within walking distance from Chora. In agreement with the overall nonchalant character of the island, all beaches in Schinousa are unorganised. There are no beach bars, sun loungers or umbrellas for hire. However, in some beaches, you will find a restaurant or two nearby. Also, given the rocky landscape of the island and lack of greenery, natural shade is limited. Make sure to come prepared.

SOUTHERN COAST

The great thing about Schinousa is that there are many beaches dotted along the south coast of the island. If you have never been to a Cycladic island before, you should know that southern (or south facing) beaches are typically very calm as they are protected from the prevailing northern winds. Nevertheless, it’s always worth checking beach orientation and wind direction on the day to get the best experience possible. If in doubt, ask a local.

Just a 10min walk from Chora and on the next bay from the boat pier lies sandy Mersini beach. The wider Mersini bay is one the safest natural ports in the Cyclades. The beach itself almost feels like a lagoon. We saw people paddle boarding there on several occasions and we enjoyed the calmest swim ever. Anyway, walking towards the east of the island, there are more beaches to discover. Plaka or Tsigouri beach, Livadi beach and Aligaria beach are delightful, sandy beaches with clear light blue water. These beaches are larger and a bit more remote than Mersini but still accessible (15 to 35min walk from Chora).

EASTERN COAST & THE NORTH

When we visited Schinousa, the northern winds were going strong so we did not venture far from the south coast. However, loads of people recommended Lioliou beach, Almyros beach and Psili Ammos. The latter is considered as one of the best beaches of the island, at an approx 30min walk from Chora.

For a more remote experience head towards the northeast and northwest of Messaria, the second tiny village of the island. Fykio beach and Gerolimnionas bay are only accessible via hiking paths (or by boat). Fykio, in particular, is not the easiest to get to walking-wise. Also, the small bay is north facing and exposed, so pick a calm day and chat to a local as to how to get there and what to expect. Note that, like in most islands, remote beaches attract the occasional nudist swimmer, in case that is something you might mind.

GO ON A BOAT TRIP AROUND THE ‘SMALL CYCLADES’

If you like boat trips, there are several small local companies that organise boat tours around the island or even day trips to the rest of the ‘Small (or Minor) Cyclades’, a collective term for the islands of Koufonisia, Schinousa, Irakleia and Donousa. If you are not island hopping already, this might be a good way for getting a taste for these lovely little islands (which I personally love). Check with your hotel or at the port for more information.

EXPLORE CHORA & THE ISLAND

Schinousa has two small villages, Chora and Messaria, and there are a couple of houses and businesses at the port in Mersini bay too. The whole island is built in accordance with the principles of Cycladic architecture. Small whitewashed sugar cube buildings with flat roofs and colourful doors and shutters is all you will see here.

The landscape is arid and rocky. In fact, Schinousa is the least rainy place in Greece, hence its nickname ‘Island of the Sun’. Needless to say, greenery is scarce, especially in high summer. However, the stark white of the buildings, bright pink of bougainvillea trees, silvery green of the occasional herb bushes and, of course, the ever-present electric blue of the sea interrupts the otherwise austere scenery. The antithesis and minimalism of the landscape are what the Cycladic islands are best known and loved for.

While there are hardly any organised hiking trails on the island, the gentle hills are walkable and offer plenty of views into the Aegean blue and neighbouring islands. Nevertheless, one doesn’t have to go far for some delightful sea views which can be enjoyed from Chora too.

The vast majority of houses and businesses are located in Chora, the capital of the island. This is also where the majority of your evenings will be spent. Chora’s main road is lined with cute restaurants, cafés and tavernas. The colourful tables and considerate decor create the perfect atmosphere for warm summer evenings drinking and dining under the starry skies or for brunch in the shade too.

Naturally, if you wish to have lunch or dinner close to the sea, there are a couple of seafood tavernas in Mersini bay too (I talk more about what & where to eat, further below).

HOW TO GET AROUND SCHINOUSA? DO I NEED TO RENT A CAR?

Schinousa’s surface area is just 8.5 km2 (3.3 sq m). The landscape is a bit hilly but very gently so (the tallest peak of the island is 133m / 436ft high). Furthermore, the island’s two villages and most beaches connect via smooth dirt roads (with the exception of the road between the port of Mersini to Chora which is a normal asphalt road). These facts add up to one thing. You can pretty much walk everywhere on the island and most distances can be covered in a 35min walk (max). So, no, you don’t need to rent a car in Schinousa. My fiancé and I don’t drive and love a long walk (but we are no hikers) and the island was perfect for us.

Understandably, walking in midday sun in high summer is challenging for some travellers. A car / moped / ATV rental office does exist on the island. Nevertheless, I have to say that when we visited Schinousa (during high season no less), the roads were blissfully empty and quiet which added to the calm and otherworldly peaceful atmosphere. So, if you are able to, give those legs a light workout and help maintain the sense of serenity and simplicity that Schinousa stands out for.

Note that most hotels and well organised hosts will pick you up and drop you off at the port. For reference, the walk from the port to Chora is about 15mins and slightly uphill, so it’s not that pleasant when carrying luggage. In case you need it, our hotel provided us with the following taxi phone number: Yiannis Taxi Services, +306973215518. We did spot the car around the island but didn’t need to use it.

WHERE TO STAY IN SCHINOUSA?

For an island of its size, Schinousa features plenty of accommodation options suitable for a variety of budgets. Most of them are in the form of rooms and houses for rent or small boutique hotels offering a fairly good value for money (compared to some of the most famous Cycladic islands).

During our visit to Schinousa, we stayed at Schinoza Luxury Suites which seems to be one of the most sophisticated accommodation options on the island (more on that below). During my research though, Africanis Suites, Theasis Luxury Suites and Levanta Guesthouse also caught my eye.

STAYING AT SCHINOZA LUXURY SUITES

Schinoza Luxury Suites is a collection of bungalows and suites situated at an advantageous location at the top of the hill, right on the edge of Chora. From the moment we stepped into our bungalow, it was clear that it was a perfect choice for our stay in Schinousa.

Our deluxe bungalow, named Aspronisi, featured a private garden, pool and a stunning view of beautiful Mersini bay, the port of Schinousa, and the horizon. The hotel’s modern Cycladic design and aesthetic was very pleasing and in harmony with the surrounding landscape. Furthermore, our spacious bungalow benefitted from thoughtful amenities and tasteful decor.

As cool as the interior of our bungalow was, the highlight of our stay in Schinoza Luxury Suites was watching the boats coming in and out of the calm bay and gazing at the Aegean blue while splashing around in our refreshing private pool. Our ridiculously large garden featured local flowers and herbaceous greenery and ensured adequate privacy without compromising the surrounding awe-inspiring views. Needless to say, admiring the golden sky and purple sea from our private garden with a glass of wine was a pretty spectacular way to enjoy the Cycladic sunsets!

Every morning, a delicious Greek breakfast was brought to our bungalow by one of the helpful and friendly team members. They also kindly picked us up and dropped us off at the port on our first and last day.

Considering all that the hotel offers, our stay (during high season no less) was fairly affordable, especially compared to the eye-watering prices that hotels of this ilk typically charge. All in all, staying at Schinoza Luxury Suites complemented our stay in Schinousa perfectly. I would wholeheartedly recommend it to anyone visiting Schinousa.

WHERE & WHAT TO EAT & DRINK IN SCHINOUSA?

When in Schinousa, do not miss tasting fava, a local type of yellow split peas. It is typically served in the form of a dip though modern chefs keep inventing new ways of incorporating it in various dishes. The islanders are extremely proud of their produce and organise a Fava Festival every year. This celebration of local gastronomy is an excellent opportunity to also witness some very lively traditional dancing. If you happen to be in the southern Cyclades around the last weekend of June, diverting to Schinousa might well worth your time!

CHORA

There are quite a few restaurants and tavernas in Chora, especially considering its tiny size. If you like your meat, head to Bizeli, a delightful courtyard where locally sourced burgers and meat platters are grilled to perfection and offered in huge quantities along with plenty of traditional mezedes (tapas-like platters). For a more romantic dinner, Deli Restaurant and Cafe‘s modern take on Greek cuisine was delightful and so was the sea view from their lovely terrace.

If you are looking for a breakfast / brunch place, Kafeneion Xara (kafeneion is the Greek word for café) came highly recommended. We didn’t try it as we were having breakfast at our hotel but it did seem like a cute place to hang out. Lastly, for cocktails and drinks, head to bar Beeraki. Tucked away in a cute cul-de-sac right opposite the lovely Panagia Akathi church (because that’s how it’s done in the Greek islands!) this is the perfect place to finish the night. By the way, this is as wild as nightlife in Schinousa gets.

LIVADI

Livadi Restaurant + Café is just a simple, no frills restaurant a 2-minute walk from the beach. However, the various traditional dishes that we tried were cooked to perfection, prepared and presented like a Greek granny would do at home. In my opinion, this type of Greek cuisine is the best and comes with the additional benefit of being very affordable.

HOW MANY DAYS SHOULD I STAY IN SCHINOUSA?

Schinousa is the kind of place where there is not a lot ‘to see’ but there can be plenty to experience. So, visiting the island for a day, a weekend, a week or more is a decision that depends on the kind of trip you wish to have.

If you are trying to see as much of Greece as possible and you are visiting many islands, I’d recommend staying here for a day or two and then moving on to one of the many neighbouring islands (more on island hopping below). However, if you are looking for a quiet place for a beach holiday run in… island time, you are in the right place! Spending your days on the beach and your evenings eating and drinking al fresco is not a bad way to spend a week or more, is it?

HOW TO GET TO SCHINOUSA? ISLAND HOPPING TIPS & ITINERARIES

The best way of visiting Schinousa is by combining your stay on the island with a visit to one of the bigger islands close by. Beautiful Naxos (1-1.5h) and Paros are only 2-2.5h away depending on the boat. From Athens, you can get to Paros and Naxos by boat (3-4h) or via a 45min flight as both islands have small domestic airports.

Needless to say, you can get to Schinousa straight from Athens. This takes about 7h by boat.

AN ISLAND HOPPING EXTRAVAGANZA

If you are travelling from abroad and flying straight to Mykonos or Santorini, visiting Schinousa can be part of a thrilling island hopping trip! This is how my fiancé and I visited Schinousa and I would definitely recommend it if you have ten days to two weeks (the more, the better):

• Start at either Mykonos or Santorini and after spending as many days there are as you like, get the catamaran to Koufonisia (1.5-2h). Koufonisia is one of my favourite places in Greece and it will be yours too if you love spending time on white sandy beaches with turquoise water!
• After spending as many days as you like in Koufonisia, head to Schinousa (less than 1h) with one of the many boat services.
• As a day trip or for your next leg of the trip, you can stop by the pretty little island of Irakleia. It’s only 15min boat ride from Schinousa and a really unique spot!
• From Schinousa (or Irakleia) hop on the ferry to Paros or Naxos. From there, you can easily make your way to Athens (or even Thessaloniki) by boat or plane.
• If you are starting from Santorini, consider including stunning Amorgos on your island hopping trip. From there, catch one of the ferries or catamarans to Koufonisia and from then onwards to Schinousa.

Have a look at my suggested itineraries below. I tried to include as many islands as possible so they may seem a bit intense. However, you can easily adjust them to visit less islands and take it slow!

TRAVELLING AROUND THE SMALL CYCLADES ISLANDS: EXPRESS SKOPELITIS

There are many different ferry and catamaran companies that connect the islands known as ‘Small (or Minor) Cyclades’ (Koufonisia, Donousa, Schinoussa, Irakleia) to each other and to major islands nearby (more on that below). However, if you can’t find a convenient route for you, check out Express Skopelitis (Small Cyclades Line). This is a small, local company and as such, some ferry search engines do not include their routes on their search results.

Small Cyclades Line have been around for decades (starting operations way before anyone was travelling to the islands there) and travel year round. I have travelled with them and they are great for the short journeys between Naxos, Irakleia, Schinoussa and Koufonisia. As far as the longer journeys (in the open sea) to Amorgos, Donousa or Santorini are concerned, some passengers, on windy days, may find them a bit uncomfortable, as the boat is smaller than the huge ferries and catamarans that typically travel in the Aegean Sea.

FINAL THOUGHTS: WHY VISIT SCHINOUSA?

Schinousa is a hidden gem in the middle of an archipelago that is full of hidden gems. It is an unassuming, carefree destination where you can find yourself having dinner next to a couple of 100 year old locals, a group of uni students, an Athenian family or even an international jetsetter and their entourage who have moored their yacht in one of the safest ports of the Cyclades. If you share that nonchalant attitude and seek a relaxed (and relaxing) trip focused on beach time, water based activities and lovely food far from the madding crowd, you might well have found that little corner of paradise you are always in the lookout for…