Sifnos island: A taste of delicious Greek summer

A TRAVEL GUIDE TO SIFNOS ISLAND, GREECE

last updated: May 2023

Sifnos is everything you would expect and wish a Cycladic island to be. A charming, unassuming small island with beautiful beaches, picturesque villages, hospitable locals and scrumptious food. There is a modest amount of elegant boutique hotels and villas on the terraced hills of the island and a well-organised network of hiking trails. More importantly, Sifnos is close to Athens and surrounded by other amazing Cycladic islands (some of which have airports). It is, therefore, a suitable destination for slow travel as well as a perfect pit-stop in a whirlwind tour of the Greek islands.

Sifnos was, and to a point still is, an off-the-beaten-track destination mostly visited by Athenians seeking peace for a weekend. After visiting the island, I can confidently say that Sifnos belongs in the pantheon of must-see Greek and Mediterranean islands.

WHAT TO DO IN SIFNOS?

GO TO THE BEACH

Sifnos does not have many beaches (in comparison to other Greek islands). However, the ones that it does have will leave you more than satisfied. 

KAMARES BEACH

Let’s start with the main port of the island. Kamares (meaning archways) is the kind of old school place where the water is crystal clear despite the occasional big boats coming and going on the other side of the pier. The spacious beach area has shallow water and fine sand and it is big enough to host all types of activities. There are tavernas on the beach and casual beach cafes which offer sun loungers and umbrellas for hire.

TOP TIP: We particularly liked the sunloungers in Mariangelo; the service was excellent. Happily, they don’t charge for the sunloungers as long as you have a coffee or a goodie from their bakery (let’s face it, you will).

POULATI BEACH

One for those who love a sweat before diving in the sea.

To be honest, this is not really a beach. Poulati is a cove at the bottom of a hill made out of beautiful rock formations. The rock is flat enough for you to get in the water and sit on semi-comfortably to dry. Ok, maybe I am not selling this as much as I should be but I just want to be clear: this is not a place where you can comfortably spend the whole day! It is also not suitable for children. It is, however, a very beautiful area with crystal clear water with impressive blue and green hues.

To get to Poulati beach, drive to Panagia Poulati church which is a very pretty church in classic Cycladic style. From there, leave the car and go down the steps on foot. It’s about 15mins of descent and the footpath and steps are flip flop suitable.

TOP TIP: For those who enjoy a trek with a bit of style, you can combine your visit to PouIati with lunch at Verina Astra hotel (more on the hotel below). Note that the church is halfway from Verina to the beach, so you will have definitely earned your meal! However, the views from the hotel are unparalleled (trust me, you will not want to leave). Make sure you call ahead as the hotel restaurant is quite small.

PLATYS GIALOS

Next stop: the ones we did not visit. As I explain later in this post, not having a car in Sifnos can be a bit of a challenge. Anyway, plenty of locals told me that it is definitely worth visiting the cosmopolitan beach of Platys Gialos. Platys Gialos means wide beach, and I trust that. Also, the beach is very famous on the island. There are all sorts of beach bars, restaurants and tavernas to suit everyone. Many people also choose Platys Gialos as their base since there is a variety of accommodation options there.

VATHI & CHERONISSOS

Lastly, Vathi (meaning deep) & Cheronissos are also beautiful sandy beaches with small ports attached to the respective traditional villages. A few restaurants, cafes as well as accommodation options can be found in both villages.  

HIKE THE TRAILS

The hiking trails of Sifnos have not been created as a way of attracting tourists. They are the result of conservation efforts of the historical footpaths created to meet the needs of local agriculture. The oldest date back as far as 3000 BC! Today, they still lead their winding way through unique landscapes to churches, beaches and villages, passing along stretches of traditional drystone walls kilometres long. Some of them are paved with stone or marble, while others are dirt tracks. They are all, however, best enjoyed during spring and autumn. In the summer, it is best to start very early in the morning.

Sifnos’ network of trails is well organised and connected to the main villages. Check out the official website for the trails of Sifnos for more information.

VISIT THE OLD TOWNS

The interesting thing about Sifnos is that there are quite a few historic villages worth visiting, unlike so many small Greek islands which only have one, the capital.

Visiting the main beaches of the island will give you the opportunity to explore a few of the pretty seaside settlements. However, the most charming and historical villages are the ones high in the hills. These are, most notably:

• Apollonia, the current capital of the island, 
• Artemonas which can be considered as an extension of Apollonia, and 
• Kastro (meaning castle), the medieval capital of the island.

There are restaurants, bars and accommodation options in all three villages.

APOLLONIA

Life in Apollonia unfolds along the ‘Steno’ (meaning narrow street). Small boutiques, restaurants and bars are all located on either side of the main cobblestone road that runs along the village. All houses in Apollonia are built in the traditional Cycladic style, with colourful shutters, stone courtyards and cute cul-de-sacs that open up to impressive views of the surrounding hills. Super pretty.

ARTEMONAS

Artemonas, we were told, is where all the wealthy Sifnians used to live historically. The village’s architecture is indeed a testament to that. The houses are larger, adorned with neoclassical decorative elements and surrounded by large leafy gardens. Artemonas is not your typical Cycladic village. The character of Artemonas is interesting and refreshing, especially compared to the simplicity and small scale of nearby Apollonia.

Artemonas and Apollonia are located quite close to each other. It may even be possible to walk from one to the other but I am not sure if there is an actual sidewalk / footpath or you have to follow a hiking trail; we visited the two villages on separate occasions. Definitely ask a local for advice if you intend to leg it. 

KASTRO

Last but not least, Kastro is my favourite village and not to be missed. This is the ancient “city” mentioned by Herodotus; Kastro has been inhabited continuously since prehistoric times (first settlement on the hill in the 3rd millennium BC). Wow. The geography alone is stunning, a lonely village at the top of the hill overlooking the sea. The cobblestone streets of Kastro are even narrower than those of Apollonia and the tiny white houses are all arranged in a truly castle-like layout.

If that’s not enough, wait till you see the Church of Seven Martyrs. A solitary Cycladic chapel standing on the very tip of the rocks surrounded by sea. The only connection to the settlement of Kastro is a a narrow, bridge-like curve of the hillside.

TOP TIP: Visit Kastro early in the afternoon for a chance to enjoy the church of the Seven Martyrs with as few people as possible. If you can manage waking up super early, it may well worth visiting at sunrise as the village faces east onto the horizon. If you are staying in Verina Astra hotel (more on that below) you may be tempted to walk to Kastro as it looks pretty close. And it is, just note that the 40min walk is more of a trek through farmland and rocky paths rather than a romantic walk. Make sure you have enough daylight and are in the right mindset for that! 

HOW TO GET AROUND IN SIFNOS?

Sifnos is best explored by car. This was a bit of a challenge for us as neither my boyfriend nor I drive. We also struggled to get taxis as they seemed to only work around boat schedules. Also, they were reluctant to agree on a pre-booked route unless it involved… getting to the boat. True to island life, I suppose… Granted, there are only 8No taxis on the island, so in high summer they get busy.

Anyway, in our week-long stay on the island, we had to re-locate mid-week from Kamares to Poulati (near Artemonas) as a result of limited hotel availability. Nevertheless, this change in venue actually worked to our advantage as it gave us the opportunity to explore more. So, do rent a car if you can. Alternatively, and for a longer stay, consider changing accommodation and split your stay in two villages like we did. If we were to stay for a bit more, I would definitely like to stay in Platys Gialos as well. Although, I fully admit that changing 3 hotels in one small island is excessive!

If you do rent a car, be warned. The island is hilly with quite a few winding roads that get really dark at night. 

Last but not least, there is also a public bus that connects the main villages, you can find the timetable here.

WHERE TO STAY IN SIFNOS?

During our week in Sifnos, we split our stay to two hotels. We spend 4 days at Sifnos House in Kamares and another 3 days at Verina Astra in Poulati near Artemonas. 

SIFNOS HOUSE

Sifnos House is a delightful combination of elegant surroundings and casual homey vibes. Located just a 2 minute walk from the port and the beach in Kamares, we particularly enjoyed our spacious and thoughtfully designed Cycladic house, outdoor space and the scrumptious breakfast. We also greatly appreciated the stellar recommendations on things to do and see on the island from the hospitable and chic couple that own the hotel.

All in all, Sifnos House offers a lot more than just good value for money… It’s a place where everyone wants you to enjoy yourself and fall in love not only with their hotel but their beautiful island. We would definitely go back. 

VERINA ASTRA

Verina Astra is located on a clifftop location near Poulati, a 5-minute drive from Artemonas village. All rooms as well as the emerald infinity pool and stylish restaurant offer unforgettable, breath-taking, uninterrupted views of the sea and the horizon. On a clear day you can easily see neighbouring Paros, Antiparos, Mykonos and Syros. This is a truly unique location that has been complimented by the beautiful landscaping; the ever-present herb bushes make for a heavenly sensorial experience.

The hotel’s architectural design has been inspired by the traditional drystone walls that drape the hilly setbacks of the entire island. Even though we do wish our beautiful room was bigger, the personal terraces complete with deckchairs and built-in sofas effortlessly invited us to the outdoors in order to take in the views for as much as possible. [Guests with young children might need to take into consideration the low ledges that make for the unique architecture for the hotel].

Note that Verina also offers a stylish accommodation option in Platys Gialos known as Verina Terra. 

WHERE & WHAT TO EAT & DRINK IN SIFNOS?

This small island truly punches above its weight in number and quality of dining options. As the birthplace of Greek chef N. Tselementes whose cookbooks adorn the shelves of every Greek household, there is a particular pride amongst the restaurateurs of the island in honing their craft.   

APOLLONIA

Start with cocktails at Cosi, a roof terrace with almost a 360-degree view. Alternatively (or additionally) head to Doloma or Mpotzi for a delightful ambience and people watching on the cobblestone road.  

Rampagas restaurant and bar is one of the few options that are not situated on ‘Steno’, the central road of Apollonia. You can reach it via a five minute walk past white courtyards and narrow streets. You will not believe your eyes when they lead you in the spacious and airy courtyard of the restaurant. Great atmosphere and delicious modern Mediterranean cuisine for when you have had enough of traditional tavernas (if that’s even possible). 

ARTEMONAS & POULATI

Mosaic is THE place to enjoy local meze (tapas style Greek food) in Artemonas. We were glad that we had dinner early as there were people waiting for a table throughout the whole duration of our meal! 

Even if you are not staying in Verina Astra, it is definitely worth combining your swim in Poulati beach with a visit to the hotel’s restaurant for lunch. Dinner is also an elegant affair -even though the hotel faces east, the colours of the sea are still magnificent during sunset. Stay till late and you may catch a glimpse of the red moon rising over the sea (depending on the season you visit). Make sure you book. Note that portions are a bit small but very tasty.

KASTRO

We did not have dinner at Kastro as we were stressing over not having to trek back to our hotel, Verina Astra, in the darkness (taxis are hard to find in Sifnos)! However, we did have a cocktail at Kavos Sunrise. Despite the fact that it faces the hills behind the village rather than the dramatic clifftops on the seaside, it still manages to create a unique ambience with its Cuban inspired décor (odd but cool) and amphitheatric spread over the footsteps of the hill.   

PLATYS GIALOS

So, as I mentioned earlier, we did not manage to go to Platys Gialos as we were having trouble getting taxis (and because we enjoyed Kamares and Poulati a lot, and, we are fans of slow travel). However, EVERYONE was talking about Omega3, a seafood restaurant on the beach, famous even before Tom Hanks and Bono had lunch there. Convinced?   

KAMARES

Sunset in Kamares is not to be missed and having cocktails at Folie is a magnificent way of enjoying nature’s show. Don’t be alarmed when the owner suddenly rolls down the shades to interrupt the view for ten minutes or so. You will be relieved that you didn’t get drenched by the waves of the approaching catamaran! 

Follow cocktail hour with a delightful dinner in Argiris or Araksovoli. Both are traditional tavernas with scrumptious food. Opt for the ‘mastelo lamb’ in Argiris; it’s a local recipe with lamb, slow cooked in vine sauce… delicious. Head for Araksovoli for fresh fish and seafood; the owners catch the fish of the day themselves! 

HOW MANY DAYS SHOULD I STAY IN SIFNOS? 

Sifnos is a small island suitable for both a weekend trip (from Athens or another island) and a longer stay. As I mentioned earlier, unlike so many of the smaller Greek islands that only have one main village, there are quite a few different villages to explore in Sifnos. So, unless you want to drive around all day, there are definitely things to do and see for a week or even more, especially if you are keen on spending time by the beach or on the hiking trails.

HOW TO GET TO SIFNOS? ISLAND HOPPING TIPS & ITINERARIES

The frequent catamarans from Athens take about 3 hours to reach the island. Alternatively, go old school and get the conventional ferry boat for a 5 hour journey through the Aegean blue. Sifnos is also close to many Cycladic islands and you can reach the island from the majority of them quite easily, including Mykonos (and its international airport), Paros (national airport) or Syros (national airport).

If you are considering island hopping, let the boat schedules and routes be your guide towards creating an effortless and efficient itinerary. It is also worth considering flying into Athens and taking the boat from there towards the Cyclades. After you finish your tour, fly out from Mykonos or Santorini so that you don’t have to backtrack. 

We combined our stay in Sifnos with a week-long stay in Paros (there is a local airport there that you can fly in from Athens or Thessaloniki). We flew from Thessaloniki to Paros and finished our holiday in Athens (by taking the catamaran from Sifnos) due to family obligations on both ends. If you are keen on visiting more islands, you can easily add Antiparos (which is almost attached to Paros) and Serifos to your itinerary -both of the islands are on my bucket list and definitely worth exploring!

FINAL THOUGHTS -WHY VISIT SIFNOS?

Sifnos is a hidden gem. It Is quintessential Cycladic and with its dramatic landscapes, hospitable locals, tasty food, traditional architecture and value for money, it is everything you would expect and hope your visit to the Greek islands to be. Don’t hesitate to stop by during your Greek island tour or make it the centrepiece of your summer holiday. It will leave you wanting more either way.