last updated: February 2024
Nicknamed ‘L’ Isle du Soleil’, the Island of the Sun, Alpe d’ Huez sits at a lofty 1860m (6100ft) above sea level and boasts on average 300 days of sunshine per year. It is the main resort in the Grandes Rousses Massif in the French Alps and as part of Alpe d’ Huez Grand Domaine du Ski offers 10,000 hectares to be explored. Famous for the longest black ski run in Europe, Alpe d’Huez is also perfect for beginners, offering a variety of wide green and gentle blue runs.
A playground of outdoor activities, Alpe d’ Huez will win you over with its sunny skies and endless possibilities of skiing in one of the biggest ski areas in France. Here’s how to plan and make the most of your ski trip.
SKIABLE AREA: 10,000 hectares
SKI LIFTS: 70
PISTES: total 167 [250km / 155miles]
EASY (green & blue): 96
INTERMEDIATE (red): 46
DIFFICULT (black): 25
SNOWPARKS: 1 (expert & beginner areas)
At 1860m above sea level in the Grandes Rousses Massif (French Alps) reaching 3330m at the summit of Pic Blanc. South facing resort, boasts on average 300 days of sunshine a year. Suitable for early and late season skiing.
Closest airports:
Grenoble (1.5h drive), Chambery & Lyon (2h drive), Geneva (3h drive).
Very high, large resort with great variety of pistes. Famous for the longest black ski run in Europe but the resort is also perfect for beginners. Casual and elegant restaurants & bars on the slopes and village, perfect for families but also those who enjoy their après ski tipple.
SKI RESORT OVERVIEW: ALPE D’HUEZ
Alpe d’Huez forms part of Alpe d’ Huez Grand Domaine which is one of the biggest ski areas in France. There are 250km (155 miles) of pisted runs combining the resorts of Alpe d’Huez, Auris en Oisans, Oz en Oisans, Vaujany and Villard-Reculas.
At its highest point, the resort reaches up to 3300m (10,800 ft) on the Pic Blanc glacier which offers an incredible panorama over an area equal to 1/5 of France! It is also the starting point of infamous black runs ‘La Sarenne’ and ‘Le Tunnel’, the only runs down from Pic Blanc. If you are not a super experienced skier / snowboarder but still like to admire the view, take the cable car back down to the station at 2700m (8900 ft). From there, skiing down one of the many red runs progressively leading down to gentler blues, and, ultimately to base and the town of Alpe d’ Huez (at an altitude of 1,860m / 6,100ft)) is an absolute pleasure.
In summary, the central bowl of Alpe d’ Huez ski resort follows a simple rule: The higher you go, the steeper the runs get.
There are plenty of après ski opportunities for most types of winter lovers. Those wishing to dance till dawn may find their options a bit limited though. Nevertheless, there are numerous restaurants and bars on the slopes and the base. There is also an outpost of legendary La Folie Douce -keep reading!
SKIING IN ALPE D’ HUEZ:
AN ADVANCED SKIER’S PERSPECTIVE
Two of the most legendary pistes in the Alps can be found in Alpe d’ Huez, perfect for those with nerves and legs of steel!
‘La Sarenne’ piste: At 18km (11 miles) length, this is the longest black run in the Alps. Some say that the Sarenne is not a true black since the average gradient is closer to that of a blue / red run. However, its length alone suggests that this is not a piste for everyone. Once you begin the descent, there’s no turning back. You are in it for the long haul and you better have the legs for it!
‘Le Tunnel’ piste: A 200m (660ft) long tunnel through the mountain followed by France’s steepest mogul field (35° gradient). Icy even in fair weather days with people sliding for over 100m (330 ft)…
Nevertheless, if you are just looking for a good old fashioned red piste, you are in the right place. Around 50% of the Grand Domaine’s pistes are rated as red, so there is plenty to go around!
SKIING IN ALPE D’ HUEZ:
A BEGINNER SKIER’S PERSPECTIVE
Alpe d’ Huez is a heaven for beginners, no nasty cliff edges in sight! The ski resort boasts a superb variety of some VERY wide and easily accessible green and blue runs that all beginners (or laid-back intermediate skiers) will enjoy.
I was still quite the beginner skier at the time of my first visit to Alpe d’ Huez. Honestly, I wish I had my very first lessons there. Thanks to the variety of easy runs, I was able to progress without having to do the same one or two over and over again. Furthermore, my partner who is an advanced skier was able to help me out while also practicing his technique (and show off!) without feeling bored in the first 5 mins.
FOR A TYPICAL TRIP OF 6 FULL SKI DAYS: IS THERE ENOUGH SKIING IN ALPE D’ HUEZ?
For sure. Even adventurous skiers who ski all day, non-stop will have new pistes to explore every day (weather permitting, obviously!). Alpe d’ Huez Grand Domaine du Ski covers 5 resorts with the main resort of Alpe d’ Huez being very large and diverse in its own right. Start early to get the most out of the extraordinary 2,205m of skiable vertical! Travelling with a group of skiers or boarders of varying ability? There will be plenty of pistes suitable for everyone.
Interested in some skiing or snowboard lessons in Alpe d’ Huez?
During my first ski trip in Alpe d’ Huez, I pre-booked five private lessons with one of the ski instructors of École du Ski Francais (ESF). ESF is the largest ski school in the world (17,000 instructors!) originally founded in 1937. My instructor was super nice, spoke perfect English and pushed me to progress without fear. During my second ski trip in Alpe d’ Huez, I didn’t pre-book any lessons but booked a few on the spot. Private lessons are quite sought after and because of limited availability, I had lessons with two different teachers in addition to the teacher I had the year before. They were all great.
All in all, I highly recommend having private lessons with ESF regardless of whether you are a beginner or just eager to advance your technique. Private lessons are usually undertaken at lunchtime from 12.30 to 2.00 pm, especially during high season which is Christmas & February (there are more slots for the rest of winter). I originally thought that this would be an awkward time but it actually turned out quite well. Slopes are less busy during that time since everyone is having lunch. Once you finish your lesson, you can easily get a table for a late, well-deserved lunch.
SKI LINGO & PISTE CLASSIFICATION AROUND THE WORLD
A piste is a marked path down a mountain for skiing & snowboarding. This is a French term used throughout Europe; its North American equivalent is ‘trail’, ‘slope’ or ‘run’. Pistes are colour coded according to their level of difficulty (symbols may also be used). Piste classification may vary from country to country.
THE TOWN OF ALPE D’ HUEZ & HOW TO GET AROUND
Alpe d’ Huez consists of ‘quartiers’ or neighbourhoods. The main ones are:
- the oldest and fairly ‘alpine’ looking, Quartier Vieil Alpe,
- Quartier des Jeux which is the most central and has a small shopping ‘district’,
- Quartier Eclose which is the newest neighbourhood and the one we stayed in (more on that below),
- the official ski resort base, Quartier Bergers, and
- Quartier Cognet which is super close to the nursery slopes and the ESF kid’s club.
Interestingly, the whole town of Alpe d’Huez is in fact AT the base of the ski resort; Bergers, in particular, is one of the closest points to the start of the chairlifts. There you will also find the ESF ski school and other ski resort amenities.
You can walk to most places in Alpe d’ Huez and you are never too far from the slopes. However, from quartier Eclose there is a 5min gondola to Bergers; super convenient for those who are not keen on walking too much in their ski boots. The same gondola can take you further down to the traditional village of Huez.
Lastly, it is worth mentioning the (funny looking) bucket lift connecting the southern edge of town, at the edge of quartier Vieil Alpe to the chairlifts and nursery slopes furthest from Bergers and the ESF kid’s club. The latter is also accessible on foot from Quartier Cognet.
All in all, a great amount of care has been given so that the whole town, as well as the older village of Huez at 1450m (4760ft) are conveniently connected to the lower chairlifts. You should be able to hit the slopes in no time!
WHERE TO STAY IN ALPE D’ HUEZ?
Alpe d’ Huez is more than a skiing destination. During the summer, the town often hosts part of the famous Tour de France cycling competition. Apart from that, there are many who visit to enjoy the alpine scenery in full bloom. Furthermore, in late March, the annual electronic music festival Tomorrowland takes place in Alpe d’ Huez. So, because of the town’s year round social calendar, there is a variety of hotels and chalets for every budget.
STAYING AT DARIA-I-NOR 5* HOTEL
The first time we visited Alpe d’ Huez, we stayed in Daria-I-Nor 5* Hotel in Eclose for a week. From the hotel, it is a 5-minute walk to the centre of Alpe d’Huez and only a 1-minute walk to the nearest ski lift. We loved it! The hotel successfully blends effortless, contemporary design with tasteful luxury touches. Furthermore, its architecture and interior design is respectful of its locality with many details reminiscent of traditional alpine chalets.
Our room was large, VERY large. Tasteful furnishing and decor made for a comfortable stay. We loved the luxurious king size bed and cosy faux fur details. We also appreciated the spacious hallway and walk-in wardrobe which allowed us to get our gear out of the way. And, did I mention the balcony with views over the Eclose gondola, the town and snowy mountains?
The elegant bar of the hotel is perfect for an afternoon hot chocolate or evening tipple and the terrace is excellent on a sunny day. The hotel’s restaurant, La Table de Daria, serves delicious contemporary French cuisine which made our stay extra special as we had several meals there.
Naturally, you can’t have a 5* hotel in the mountains without a spa. I had an amazing full body massage on my first evening. We also enjoyed relaxing our aching muscles in the pool, steam room and jacuzzi at the end of each day.
THE SKI SHOP AT DARIA-I-NOR
Last but certainly not least, the hotel has its own ski shop on site! There, you can conveniently rent your ski gear or stock up on some (mostly luxury) gear. The best part? From the ski shop, you can step into the Eclose gondola station, take the next bubble and head straight to the slopes! You will be clipping on your skis in 5 minutes! If you are staying at the hotel, I’d definitely recommend renting your ski gear here; it is super convenient albeit a bit more expensive than your average rental gear shop.
The staff at the ski shop were super knowledgeable and polite. They shared quite a few tips with us so that we make the most out of our ski gear. Also, I have had quite a lot of trouble with comfort when it comes to rental ski boots. While at the Daria-I-Nor ski shop, the shop assistant pretty much went through the same fitting process that is done when buying new ski boots, in order to make sure that my rental boots were right. No other rental gear shop I have been to ever offered to do this.
All in all, we had a great stay in Daria-I-Nor hotel and I’d definitely recommend it if you are looking for a luxury accommodation option in Alpe d’ Huez.
STAYING AT DARIA-I-NOR RESIDENCE
For our second trip to Alpe d’ Huez, we opted for the Daria-I Nor Residence which offers serviced apartments under the same roof as Daria-I-Nor 5* Hotel (though a few large stand alone chalets are located just across the street). If you haven’t read the previous tab, note that it is a 5-minute walk to the centre of Alpe d’Huez and only a 1-minute walk to the nearest gondola.
DARIA-I NOR APARTMENTS VS HOTEL: SPACE & DECOR
The apartments are stylish and comfortable, providing everything you need in a nice, modern ambience. Nevertheless, when compared to the opulent design of the hotel rooms, they are very simply furnished. There aren’t any cosy alpine details or designer furniture and the bathroom and wardrobes are modestly sized.
For many people, the apartments will be more convenient than the hotel. There is a nice living room to relax in (separate from the bedroom). As spacious as the hotel rooms are, they do not compare to that. Also, the apartments are self-catered. A fully fitted (albeit small) kitchen and a comfortable dining area is provided.
It’s worth mentioning that the apartments are cleaned only at the beginning and end of your stay and towels are changed once midweek. On the other hand, the hotel rooms are cleaned daily and there is an evening turn down service as well.
DARIA-I NOR APARTMENTS VS HOTEL: ACCESS TO SERVICES
There are different reception areas for the two establishments but the entrances are side by side and look similar. No matter where you stay, you can easily access the restaurant, bar and ski shop.
The apartments and the hotel have different indoor pool areas, both with a sauna and steam room. The pool for the apartments was very nice, however, it was incredibly busy with kids. Also, despite its large size, its odd shape made it hard to swim lengths. On the contrary, the hotel swimming pool also features a hot tub and relaxation room and overall provided a much more relaxing and luxurious experience.
Spa treatments are accessible to anyone and everyone has to pay for them.
As guests of the hotel, we loved the convenience of the ski shop where we rented and stored our gear. From there, we headed straight to the Eclose gondola that led us to the pistes. Residents of the apartments store ski boots and skis in a different locker room which is a bit awkwardly placed in relation to the gondola. However, if you rent your skis from the ski shop, you can store your stuff there no matter where you stay.
All in all, even though we loved the hotel, we found the apartments to be a more affordable and very convenient solution, perfect for our Christmas trip. If you don’t care about 5* offerings, if you are travelling in a large group or just appreciate having your own kitchen, the apartments are a winner and an overall great accommodation option for Alpe d’ Huez.
OTHER HOTEL RECOMMENDATIONS
While planning for this trip and researching for places to stay, the following hotels caught me eye:
- Au Chamois d’ Or Hotel, Spa & Restaurant (5*)
- Les Grandes Rousses Hotel, Spa & Restaurant (4*)
- Le Pic Blanc Hotel, Spa & Restaurant (4*)
WHERE TO EAT & APRÈS SKI IN ALPE D’ HUEZ?
On the slopes
At Bergers, one of the cheap(er) and cheerful solutions for lunch would be The Tremplin. It features a cosy, alpine interior and a large terrace where you can also enjoy a hot chocolate or cold beer on the many deckchairs. The speedy service was impressive.
La Cabane is a great option for lunch or just a vin chaud. It is accessible via the Romains chairlift and a short ski down a blue piste. Again, cute alpine interiors and a massive terrace, but this time with impressive views over the mountains and slopes. The roasted cockerel in the restaurant followed by a hot chocolate on the deck chairs overlooking the mountains was one of the reasons why I love ski trips. Scrumptious hearty food, amazing views, eating alfresco, enjoying the crisp air of the snowy mountains… Anyway, it’s worth noting that the restaurant is also open for dinner. Upon reservation, their private ‘snowcat’ drives you up the mountain in the dark!
Another cosy restaurant on the slopes with magnificent views is La Plage des Neiges. You can reach it by coming down one of the green slopes from Les Jeux chairlift. On snowy days, we enjoyed hearty food in the chalet while gazing at the valley from the huge windows. On sunny days, we sat on the terrace and relaxed on the deck chairs. If there is a large group of you, make sure you sit in the glazed bubbles!
Lastly, La Folie Douce along with its gastronomy restaurant La Fruitiere needs no introduction! Everything you would expect and so much more, from elegant lunches to dancing on the table! So much fun! It is located pretty much in the centre of the resort, accessible by Les Marmottes 1 chairlift.
In town
Alpe d’ Huez has a plethora of après ski options including lively bars and restaurants of various cuisines.
If you are interested in tasting traditional Savoyard dishes as well as some of the all-time French classics head to Au Montagnard in Avenue des Jeux or La Petite Tavern in Eclose. Both restaurants serve delicious alpine dishes such as raclette and tartiflette and, of course, cheese fondues in a cosy atmosphere. You can also cook your meat selection yourself in hot stones brought to your table! Make sure you book in advance as these two little restaurants get extremely busy, and for good reason.
WHERE TO SHOP FOR SKI GEAR IN ALPE D’ HUEZ?
Obviously I would advise against hitting the shops when you could be hitting the slopes! However, just in case the weather is really bad, your thighs burn to the eight degree or you just have an hour to kill post-ski and pre-spa, note that there are quite a few shops in town with a great selection of ski and snowboarding gear. However, if you are looking to procure items that you will not find back home and will become staples of your skiing (and general) wardrobe for years to come, I have two recommendations for you.
Firstly, the Ski Shop at hotel Daria-I-Nor. As I mentioned earlier, it is situated next to the Eclose stop of the bubble from Bergers and you can pop in after you finish skiing for the day. There you can find a curated selection of brands such as French skiwear Fusalp and Rossignol. I was particularly smitten with the beautiful wool clothes and accessories from Arpin, a French brand who pride themselves on traditional craftsmanship and quality since 1817.
Secondly, for the gentlemen in our midst. Maybe you noticed the sunglasses Daniel Craig wore atop an Austrian mountain in Spectre? The ones with the side shields? Then you will be glad to know that the cult 007 sunglasses by luxury French brand Vuarnet can be found in Optique de l‘ Alpe Guery conveniently located in Avenue des Jeux.
GET READY FOR YOUR SKI TRIP
A bit of preparation and a lot of excitement will go a long way, for any kind of trip, let alone a ski trip, and that’s what ‘A Beach Bum’s Guide to Skiing’ is for!
A Beach Bum’s Guide to Skiing is a series of posts about all things ski! Packing lists for the slopes and après, how to choose new gear, general ski chat as well as my musings from when I was an adult beginner skier (with detailed guides if you wish to learn to ski… later in life).
PLANNING YOUR SKI TRIP TO ALPE D’ HUEZ
HOW TO GET TO ALPE D’ HUEZ?
The closest airports to Alpe d’ Huez are: Grenoble (1.5h drive), Chambery & Lyon (2h drive) and Geneva (3h drive). During winter, you should be able to find flights from most European cities to all.
Hiring a car is not essential while you are staying in Alpe d’ Huez; you are never too far from the slopes. The sole exception to this would be if your hotel or chalet is exceptionally far from town.
If organizing your transfers between the airport and the resort makes you nervous, then booking an organised holiday with a reliable ski trip organiser is an easy solution which might also prove more cost effective. We travelled from London with Crystal ski who organized our flights with TUI to Chambery, our coach transfers as well as our accommodation in Hotel Daria-I-Nor. We were very satisfied with the service; everything was smooth and well organised.
IS ALPE D’ HUEZ SUITABLE FOR A SHORT SKI BREAK?
It really depends on your flights and/or where you are driving from. If you manage to get to Grenoble, then the driving time from there is not too bad.
A big argument in favour of a short ski break in Alpe d’ Huez is that there are many accommodation options with either ski-in / ski-out capability or within a 5-10min walk from the chairlifts. The town of Alpe d’ Huez, after all, is the ski resort base.
Nevertheless, you will not be able to explore all the terrain that the resort has to offer, of course. You will just have to save some pistes for next time!
FINAL THOUGHTS
If you are searching for a low-key, high altitude ski resort that provides world class skiing with variable terrain and modern infrastructure you can’t go wrong with Alpe d’ Huez. We particularly loved the convenience of the town being situated at the very base of the ski lifts which made access to the slopes very easy. Furthermore, the dining options, elegant or casual, and the scrumptious French alpine cuisine were delightful. Lastly, we found the ESF ski school to not only have great instructors but also provide a very good value for money (compared to ski lessons in other European countries). We are definitely going back to Alpe d’ Huez, soon!
This is not a sponsored post & I am not affiliated with any of the hotels, restaurants or organisations mentioned.
LET’S TALK ABOUT SKIING
Looking for more posts about skiing? Maybe ski resort reviews? Hit the buttons below!
___
Heeeyyyy! So happy this is live! I can now stop ‘harassing’ you for traveling tips, I can just come here and gorge on ALL the details! Can’t wait for the next post ! 🙂
Thanks darling! The best is yet to come! xxx
Wonderful new blog!Keep the posts coming!!!
Thank you!