Skiing & Après Ski in Val d’Isère, French Alps: A Curated Guide

Living in London as an expat for more than a decade has taught me so many things. Don’t worry, I won’t bore you with the merits of root vegetables and a three prong plug! In this blog post, I will talk about the delights of the French ski resort of Val d’ Isère.

It is both a right of passage and a holiday staple for British skiers to visit Val d’ Isère, or Val as many call it, at least once in their lifetime but most likely every year. But don’t let that scare you! This cosmopolitan village has all the French vibes and effortlessly holds a place in every list for the top ski resorts of the world. Nestled amongst the alpine peaks of Savoie, in southeastern France, a mere 5km from Italy, Val d’ Isère was so hyped by my (British) fiancé over the years, that when we finally booked that trip, I didn’t think that it’d live up to my expectations. Yet it did.

Here are my impressions and details of our trip and a guide for creating your own perfect ski trip in Val d’ Isère in the French Alps.

SKI RESORT OVERVIEW: VAL D’ ISÈRE

The pistes of the Tignes – Val d’ Isère ski area (formerly known as Espace Killy) are almost split 50/50 between its two ski resorts. Getting from one ski resort to the other is seamless, though if this is your first visit to Val d’ Isère, I doubt that you will need to head to Tignes for more terrain. While Whistler Blackcomb is by far the largest ski resort in North America, the Val d’Isère – Tignes combined ski area is 3-4 times its size, simply enormous!

Val d’Isère’s part of the ski area (approximately 150km / 93miles) has three distinct but interconnected sectors, Col d’ Iseran, Solaise and Bellevarde. Solaise and Bellevarde can be accessed directly from the centre of town. Bellevarde is also accessible from the purpose-built village of La Daille and offers direct connections to Tignes. Col d’ Iseran is connected to the hamlets of Le Fornet and Le Laisinant and, at higher altitude, Solaise. From Col d’ Iseran, the Glacier du Pissaillas can be accessed until early summer.

VAL D’ ISÈRE SKIING THROUGHOUT THE SEASON

The Tignes – Val d’ Isère ski area rises from 1,800m to 3,400m (5,900 – 11,150ft) and 60% of it lies above 2,000m (6,560ft). Apart from the high altitude, the topography and local weather phenomena also contribute to Val d’ Isère having some of the best snow records in Europe.

The season starts in early December with the legendary ‘Critérium de la Première Neige’ alpine skiing competition which has been taking place in Val d’Isère since 1955. Many of the slopes here are north facing. Early winter can be very cold (not typical for European resorts) which contributes to good snow conditions during Christmas and New Year’s (not a given for other resorts). North facing slopes are also protected from the spring sun.

In fact, March and April are glorious here. Val offers fluffy powder and crisp runs when pistes in other resorts are slushy. Our ski trip took place during the 2nd week of March; there was plenty of snowfall and the snow was perfect.

Lastly, there are two glaciers that offer great skiing until the end of the season.

PISTES INFO & TIPS

Val d’ Isère has been making considerable investments in high speed chairlifts and gondolas that cater to both expert and beginner skiers and enable them to ski together and apart. Whether you are in a large group or with your children, swift transport to various parts of the mountain and back to town means that all parties can ski or relax separately and then meet up for lunch or a joined afternoon ski session with ease.

As a rule of thumb, the easiest pistes in Val tend to be at higher altitude whereas the steepest terrain is lower down. That means that everyone gets to experience the incredible views and that incomparable feeling of seclusion, remoteness and awe. However, this also means that the runs home are all challenging especially considering that the quality of the snow typically decreases as the day goes by when everyone is tired and in a hurry. If you are a beginner, intermediate, had too many aperols at Folie Douce or you are just not in the zone, take one of the gondolas down at the end of the day.

FOR A TYPICAL TRIP OF 6 FULL SKI DAYS: IS THERE ENOUGH SKIING IN VAL D’ ISÈRE?

Absolutely! Even very active and experienced skiers who ski all day will have new pistes to explore every single day (and I am just talking about Val). If you add Tignes into the equation, the variety of the terrain, views and places to have lunch and après ski doubles!

WHAT CAN NON-SKIERS DO IN VAL D’ ISÈRE?

Are there people in your group who don’t ski? No worries. There are several walking trails, an ice rink, several spas as well as cafés, restaurants and shops. If that does not sound exciting enough, there are also numerous winter activities such as dogsledding, tobogganing, snowshoeing. Not enough adventure (why not have a ski lesson then?!?)? There is paragliding, adventure courses and various motorised vehicles to have fun with on the snow and in the air!

We only skied so I cannot really offer my experiences on any of the above. If you are interested, have a look here.

THE TOWN OF VAL D’ISÈRE & HOW TO GET AROUND

Nestled within a long and thin valley at elevation of 1,850m (6,070ft), the town of Val d’ Isère has been inhabited since the medieval times. Indeed, the local parish church named after St. Bernard of Menthon, the patron saint of mountain dwellers, was built in 1664. Some original farm buildings and the baroque church itself still exist. Around them, a blend of modern architectural styles create a vibrant place to stay filled with cafés, bars, restaurants and shops. There is a variety of apartment and chalet style accommodation with an emphasis on upscale (albeit understated) hotels and residences that cater to a cosmopolitan clientele.

While this is not a dedicated ski / ski out resort (such as Avoriaz, France), you are never too far from the slopes. The end of the lower pistes and starting point of the ski lifts can be found on the southern side of the centre of Val d’ Isère.

Apart from the main town, the resort has two more distinct villages both of which have their own access into the ski area. At the lower end of the valley (on the way to Tignes), there is the purpose-built satellite of La Daille. At the other side, there is the rustic hamlet of Le Fornet.

HOW TO GET AROUND

The main village of Val d’ Isère is fairly small and we walked around pretty much everywhere. If you are not in the mood for walking or your accommodation is not centrally located, there is a frequent and free shuttle service that covers the entire resort including La Daille and Le Fornet. A free shuttle service to the neighbouring resort of Tignes is also available. Check out the schedule here.

WHERE TO EAT & APRÈS SKI IN VAL D’ ISÈRE?

There is a good variety of options when it comes to wining and dining in Val d’ Isère. Some of them host the legendary parties and events that the après ski scene of the Alps is known for! Whether you are dancing the afternoon or evening away, grabbing a quick crêpe or enjoying a sophisticated meal, Val will not leave you disappointed. You may find, though, that you will have to pay a tad more than usual, even by European ski resort standards.

Here are my impressions of the restaurants, bars and cafés we visited. I can’t wait to go back to Val and explore more!

LUNCH ON THE SLOPES

One of our favourite lunch spots was La Plage de l’Ouillette. Situated in the Solaise area at the bottom of the piste Madeleine, by the lake of Ouillette, this cute restaurant is great for a quick meal or a French feast. The views over the frozen, snow covered lake are beautiful.

At the top of Rocher de Bellevarde, Café Bellevarde offers a magnificent panoramic view of the Val d’ Isère peaks. We had a quick meal at the large terrace of the café taking in the views. There is also a more cosy, sit down restaurant which serves hearty alpine dishes.

Lastly, some truly luxurious options are the two restaurants and bar of Le Refuge de Solaise Hotel. Perched at the top of the slopes of the Solaise ski area, this stunning hotel is a true refuge from all the troubles in the world! We only visited the hotel for a coffee, but its jaw dropping views and magnificent decor had us thinking that a stay here will definitely be bucket list material. If you are not keen on staying overnight at such high altitude (and in the middle of nowhere), a sumptuous meal will certainly make for a memorable experience too.

APRÈS SKI DRINKS ON THE SLOPES

There is no better place to start the après than La Folie Douce (at the top of la Daille gondola). We experienced both their indoor and outdoor parties and they did not disappoint. There were acrobats, dancers, live music, dj sets, fire displays and a lot of classic après ski merriment! La Folie Douce in Val d’ Isère truly goes all in, despite the weather and day of the week! We very much enjoyed the shows, strong aperol spritzes and the good vibes. Sadly, their canteen-style dishes were disappointing. If you are here for lunch and don’t mind the splurge, try their à la carte options.

ALL DAY DINING AT THE BOTTOM OF THE SLOPES (IN TOWN)

Looking for a casual meal and hot chocolate? There are a lot of small restaurants, crêperies and cafés at Rue de Téléphériques (on the way to ESF ski school). Chevallot Bakery is also located nearby and features a lovely outside space for coffee and baked goods.

For the more fancy options now. Right at the edge of the slopes, the Yule Hotel features a lovely terrace and deckchairs overlooking the nursery slopes. Across the street, the terrace of Loulou in Les Airelles 5* hotel is equally well situated but offers a far more sophisticated dining option. We thoroughly enjoyed our lunch under the sunny alpine skies despite the steep price! Loulou also features a sumptuous indoor space for dinner. If that’s not enough luxury for you, note that the hotel also features a restaurant by celebrated Japanese chef Nobu Matsuhisa.

APRÈS SKI DRINKS IN TOWN

Just off the main street of Val d’ Isère (Avenue de Prariond) and moments from the bottom of the slopes is a small pedestrian road with two tiny bars / crêperies: Crêpe Val’s and Chez Jules. Their colourful umbrellas and outdoor seating becomes a hotspot of meet ups when the ski day reaches its end. ESF ski instructors seem to love this place as well as anyone who wishes for nothing more than dumping their skis on the spot and grabbing a quick aperol or two! While you are there, you might as well check out the elegant Fusalp boutique next door.

Looking for a more lively après scene? Cocorico is a classic option. We headed there straight after skiing when the weather took a turn for the worse and it filled up in no time! We really enjoyed the live music and had a fun afternoon in the courtyard despite the heavy snowfall!

If you fancy a more cosy setting, the bar at the Blizzard Hotel is renowned for its ambience and alpine chic vibes. It is perfect for a hot chocolate by the fire or a glass of wine and cheese platter kind of an afternoon / evening. Lastly, another great option for evening drinks and tapas is La Baraque. We really liked its ambience, live music and crafty cocktails.

DINNER IN TOWN

One of the best options for traditional cuisine is La Tavern d’ Alsace. We thoroughly enjoyed the food as well as wine and beer options of this super cosy Alsatian brasserie which is perfect for a relaxing evening.

Another great option for some hearty mountain food is The Fondue Factory (also open for lunch). As the name suggests, you can gorge yourself on a variety of fondues as well as tartiflettes, raclettes, and a selection of grill-it-yourself meats. We loved it! The gallery of traditional skis on the entrance is cool too!

Last but not least, if your group cannot agree on what to have for dinner, head to La Source which offers French cuisine, Savoyard specialties and pizza in a relaxed setting (also open for lunch).

PLANNING YOUR SKI TRIP TO VAL D’ ISÈRE

HOW TO GET TO VAL D’ ISÈRE?

The closest airport to Val d’ Isère is Chambery (2h drive). This small regional airport is mostly used by charter and a limited amount of low cost flights but serves a considerable amount of ski resorts in the area. As such, it is incredibly busy in winter especially during the weekends; allow enough time when you depart. If you are travelling independently, it is unlikely that you will be landing in Chambery, but if you do, you will probably need to arrange for a taxi or private shuttle. As far as I know, there are no public buses from there to Val d’ Isère.

Lyon St Exupéry and Grenoble Alpes Isère Airport (2.5h drive for both) are the two major airports closest to Val d’ Isère; both offer flights to many European cities. From here, an affordable bus service to Val such as Altibus or Bensbus (amongst others) will not be hard to find. Lastly, plenty of people reach Val d’ Isere from Geneva airport in Switzerland (3h drive). Coaches and private shuttle services can be easily found from there too.

If your point of departure allows it, the best way of getting to Val d’ Isère is by train. It is only a 40min drive to the nearest train station, Bourg-Saint-Maurice, where plenty of high speed and international services terminate. You can take the train to the French Alps from anywhere in the world via Paris with SNCF, from London via Paris with Eurostar + SNCF, and from the Netherlands, Belgium and Germany with Eurostar Snow (previously known as Thalys). Note that international services typically run during the weekends.

IS VAL D’ ISÈRE SUITABLE FOR A SHORT SKI BREAK?

Personally, I am not a fan of short ski breaks (say a long weekend). It always takes a significant time and money to reach the mountains (at least for those of us not lucky enough to live within driving distance from a ski resort). Nevertheless, I know many (non-French) people who have done quick ski trips to Val d’ Isère. More specifically, as I mention in the beginning of this blog post, Val d’ Isère is a favourite amongst British skiers and if they can do short ski breaks to the resort, maybe so can you!

As you read just above, transfer time from the airports / train station is not too bad. Also, if your accommodation is centrally located, you will almost be able to ski in / ski out as all the slopes will eventually lead you down to the village itself. So, once you are there, you won’t lose time commuting from the chairlifts to your hotel. All in all, a short ski break to Val d’ Isère is doable if you manage to get a convenient flight / train duration and departure time.

FINAL THOUGHTS: WHO IS VAL D’ ISÈRE BEST FOR?

So, who is Val d’ Isère best for? I’d say all levels of skiers. It’s also great for partying as well as couples, families and anyone seeking for a relaxed après. The superb ski area and easygoing look and feel of this cosmopolitan village make Val d’ Isère a great choice throughout the entirety of the season.

If I had one doubt in my mind about recommending Val, it would be to those travelling on a very modest budget. While affordable accommodation is always a challenge in the Alps, we found the services industry in Val d’ Isère geared more towards those on luxury skiing holidays. Thankfully, the ‘luxury vibes’ are understated. Nothing outshines the importance of having a great day on the slopes!