A TRAVEL GUIDE TO SPETSES ISLAND, GREECE
last updated: May 2023
Spetses town is looking outwards towards the horizon. Lined with beautiful neoclassical buildings, it stretches along a remarkable seaside esplanade filled with cute cafes and boutiques. Dapia, the new port, is buzzing with movement and anticipation but time stands still amongst the fortress-like captains’ mansions. Your seaside walk starts at a historical boarding school built for future leaders and finishes at the pirates of the Caribbean…esque old port, a bay within a bay filled with luxury yachts, sailing and fishing boats all mingling harmoniously amongst old shipyards, elegant restaurants and simple tavernas.
The combination of that small island feeling and a place of historical significance with the perks of an upscale destination sums up the beauty of Spetses. Spetses has been attracting the cream of the crop way before becoming one of the most expensive European islands to buy property in. Come to think of it, it never stopped being one.
Off the eastern coast of the Peloponnese, Greece
Island group:
Argosaronic islands
Area | Population:
22 km2 | 4027
Capital town:
Spetses (town)
(click on the maps to enlarge)
Spetses appeals to students, couples, young professionals, families, retirees... everyone! Visiting the island is a no-brainer.
Traditional seaside settlement of neoclassical houses and captains' mansions. Spetses is quite green and famous for its dense pine tree forests.
Several nice beaches accessible on foot or by small public boats.
Historic & elegant. Spetses has been a hub for sophisticated international travellers since the 1960s.
The island is car-free. However, you will be able to find and hire any 2-wheeled vehicle you can possible imagine.
June to September is the best time to visit. However, if you are in Athens, a short visit to Spetses is a great idea year-long.
For things to know about Greece including currency, plugs, language & visa requirements, head to:
AN ISLAND BRIMMING WITH HISTORY
First inhabited even before the era of Classical Antiquity, Spetses is the birthplace of generations of merchants and seafarers, continuously owning its prosperity to its position on major trade routes. Right before the beginning of the Greek War of Independence on the 25th March 1821, Spetses is wealthy enough to be one of the first islands to provide large fleets, and more importantly, legendary naval commanders and crews to fight against the Ottoman Empire. Note that at the time, Spetses was not only wealthier, but also more populous than Athens.
After the liberation of southern Greece, Spetses starts to decline. Luckily, in the beginning of the 20th century, S. Anargyros, a wealthy Greek expat returns to his homeland wishing to develop the island. Amongst his pioneering projects were the first reservoir of Spetses, the island’s reforestation and the luxurious Poseidonion Hotel. In the 1920s, together with benefactor M. Korgialeneios, he built the ‘Anargyrios and Korgialenios School of Spetses – AKSS’ to the standards of famous British schools Eton and Harrow in order to educate the leaders of the nascent Greek society.
MODERN SPETSES
Fast forward to the 1960s which mark the beginning of economic development of modern Greece. From then onwards, Spetses effortlessly stays in the spotlight of the international travellers’ scene due to its understated elegance, natural beauty and historical architecture. Today, the pine tree forests fill the air with their aromas, Poseidonion hotel is more luxurious than ever and Anargyrios and Korgialenios School still holds a prominent place in education and culture.
WHAT TO DO IN SPETSES?
WALK FROM THE SCHOOLS ALL THE WAY TO THE EDGE OF THE OLD PORT
Spetses town has developed along the seaside and while its original hub was the old port on the east edge of the island, it has organically grown towards the north, past the new port and all the way to Anargyrios & Korgialenios School of Spetses. Once you finish admiring the beautiful architecture of the School, head to the beach just opposite. Known as Kaiki beach, College beach or Scholes (meaning schools), it is a perfect place for swimming, sunbathing and enjoying lunch and drinks.
Starting from Scholes and walking south along the seaside, you will be able to enjoy all that Spetses has to offer. Beaches, elegant restaurants, cafes, bars and the lively new port of Dapia. Further than that, the seaside promenade continues past the historical captains’ mansions leading eventually to the charming old port filled with more restaurants, cafes and unique historical buildings. The walk will take you about an hour (of fast walking, allow for more for a more leisurely pace). There are plenty of opportunities for pit stops along the way.
Naturally, you don’t have to do this route all at once. After all, you will be doing parts of it anyway to get to dinner, the beach or anything in between. However, the fact that you can have such a long continuous walk along the seaside with so many things to see and experience on the way is a testament to the island’s unique charm.
But wait, there is more! Although the seaside is amazing, don’t miss the little alleys and cobblestone streets into the town. They are also charming and filled with boutiques, boulangeries and the occasional historical mansion or two!
TOP TIP -SPETSES’ ARTISAN COBBLESTONE:
While walking in Spetses town, don’t forget to look… down! The island is famous for the artisanship of the patterns in the cobblestone. Wear your most colourful sandals and take a snapshot or two!
TAKE A BOAT TO THE BEACHES & CIRCUMNAVIGATE THE ISLAND
There are quite a few beaches on the island, many of which can be accessed on foot, by bike/bicycle or public bus. During the summer, there are also plenty of boats leaving the new port, Dapia, taking people to the ones further away. Have a look at the most notable beaches on the travel map above.
Agioi Anargyroi and Agia Paraskevi, the beaches on the south side of the island, can be accessed by taking the boats which do the circumnavigation of the island. It is a quick and easy day trip as Spetses is roughly round and not too big. This is an excellent opportunity to get a nice view of the whole town from the sea, and to admire the dense pine tree forest that the island is famous for, along with some very extravagant villas perched on the cliffs. The boats leave Dapia in the morning, sail along one side of the island and drop you off at the beach. In the afternoon, they pick you up and get you back to town by sailing along the other side of the island. The route is about 40-50mins each way.
Apart from the obvious bonus of getting to see the entire coastline of the island, in my opinion, Agioi Anargyroi and Agia Paraskevi are also amongst the best beaches for enjoying a refreshing swim.
A GREEK SUMMER EXPERIENCE: BOATS TO BEACHES
During the summer, nearly in every Greek island (and in many beach towns on the mainland), you will find boats that pick-up people from local ports and drop them off at various beaches nearby. These boats are not to be confused with tacky ‘party’ boats omnipresent in popular spots worldwide. Think of them more like water buses or water taxi ride-shares. They are usually owned and operated by fishermen and Greek visitors use them all the time too. Trips are quite short, the water is usually calm (since they stay near the shoreline) and the captain usually speaks English.
They are actually my preferred means of beach hopping in Greece as they are very pleasant and affordable. They also provide you with the opportunity to admire the coastline. I particularly love photographing seemingly inaccessible locations with tiny white chapels on, perched on cliffs or on tiny islets!
For larger groups, or if you prefer more privacy, water taxis (for individual hire) usually bob around in the port as well. Prices will vary.
VISIT THE BOUBOULINA MUSEUM
The 300-year old mansion of legendary revolutionary heroine Laskarina Bouboulina is a must see. While the house and artefacts are quite interesting, it is the story of the famous daughter of Spetses, succinctly narrated while on guided tour that will definitely impress you.
Naval commander and business woman, Bouboulina spent her immense fortune in support of the Greek revolution. However, her main contribution to the cause was her patriotism, spirit and astounding leadership skills. Her life’s story is a truly inspiring one, especially considering that it takes place in a time when Greek people were desperately fighting to free the nation after 400 years of occupation (Bouboulina herself was born in a prison in Constantinople) and… she lived in a man’s world.
After Bouboulina’s death, Russian Tsar Alexander I granted her the honorary rank of Admiral of the Russian Navy. This makes her, until recently, the only woman in world naval history to hold this title. In 2018, she was granted the title of Rear Admiral in the Hellenic Navy. Her face and largest warship Agamemnon were depicted on the two sides of the Drachma (Greek currency prior to Euro). If you are remotely interested in world history or just incredible life stories, this will be an hour of your day very well spent!
The museum is situated in the centre of Spetses town. You will be able to find the timetable with the guided tours slots posted in quite a few places around town. In the beginning of the tour, the guide will ask if you wish for the narration to be done in English too.
POP TO THE MAINLAND AND WATCH A PERFORMANCE IN THE ANCIENT THEATRE OF EPIDAVROS
The open air amphitheatre of Epidavros is one of the best-preserved ancient Greek structures in existence. This 4th century BC, 14000 seat capacity theatre is an undisputed highlight renowned for its amazing acoustics; a coin dropped in the theatre’s centre can be heard from the highest seat. Imagine sitting on the ancient pews, under the night sky, on a warm night… experiencing the same wonder as people did over 2000 years ago!
During the summer there are several performances of ancient Greek tragedies and comedies. No need to worry about not understanding Greek, there is a screen with English subtitles. There are several companies organising the boat to the mainland, usually to Kosta or Porto Heli, and then the taxi to Epidavros. Check with your hotel -performances are usually in the weekends. The boat journey to Kosta is about 15min and then it is about an hour drive inland to the theatre. All performances are in the evening but boats from Kosta to Spetses do run until quite late.
While it will take you more than 1.5h each way, I would absolutely recommend visiting Epidavros. An all time classic Greek experience! If there is no performance or you are not interested in sitting through a performance, it is also totally worth going on a day trip. This way, you will be able to admire the theatre in daylight. I visited Epidavros on a school trip (yes, I am Greek) and if a bunch of 16-year olds were impressed by an ancient monument, I bet you will be too!
SPECIAL EVENTS IN SPETSES
SPETSES CLASSIC YACHT REGATTA | JUNE
Over 75 historical classic timber sailing boats gather in Spetses every year to showcase the beauty of the vessels and the maritime prowess required to sail them. A truly impressive sight and an exciting time to visit the island with many parties and events accompanying the race.
ARMATA | 1ST WEEKEND AFTER SEPTEMBER 8TH
On the second weekend of September, the popular Armata celebrations are being held. The island’s revolutionary history comes back to life with historic re-enactments and celebratory festivities all culminating in the burning of a replica of the Ottoman flagship in the port. It is a super popular time to visit; I had to book my accommodation many months in advance but it was worth it. The festivities are quite cool and there is a definite excitement in the air!
HOW TO GET AROUND IN SPETSES?
Spetses is a (private) car free island. Note that you will still need to be careful when crossing the street; there are all sorts of bikes and 2 or 3-wheeled vehicles on the streets as well as normal taxis. There are plenty of rental places in town where you can hire a moped, ATV or bike.
One of the highlights of visiting the island is taking a ride with a horse drawn carriage! This is a great way of viewing the entirety of the town’s seaside promenade, especially if you don’t feel like doing the whole walk.
WHERE TO STAY IN SPETSES?
Sadly, despite having visited the island four times, I still don’t have a hotel recommendation that comes from personal experience. The reason for that is twofold. The first two times I visited, I was a student with a limited budget. The other two, I had a hard time finding availability despite the fact that I was searching about 2-3 months in advance! This should tell you two things: Spetses is a very popular destination and it is fairly upscale. Book way in advance and allow for a bit of a higher budget than you would in another Greek island, excluding Mykonos and Santorini.
Anyway, friends of mine have told me that they really enjoyed their stay in Orloff boutique hotel and Nissia Traditional Residences -not surprising really as their design and location are indeed terrific. And it goes without saying that the historic Poseidonion Grand Hotel would no doubt be an incredible option if you feel like splurging. Lastly, a brand new opening which looks very promising, especially if you are into small boutique hotels, is Yayaki.
Do let me know in the comments below if you have any good recommendations!
WHERE & WHAT TO EAT IN SPETSES?
FOR BREAKFAST
For breakfast, we enjoyed trying different delicacies from the various boulangeries in town -grab and go. If you would like to have breakfast while gazing at the blue sea, we really enjoyed our Greek brunch in Mosquito (along the seaside, north of Dapia).
LUNCH ON THE BEACH
For lunch, the majority of the beaches in Spetses are organised so you will be able to grab lunch and drinks there. While most of them are either small tavernas with traditional Greek cuisine or beach huts with sandwiches, Kaiki Beach Club is -as the title says- a proper beach club with a large bar and restaurant and also the option to be served on your sunbed. We had a very enjoyable lunch there, so I would definitely recommend it.
DINNER IN TOWN
For dinner, there is a plethora of options in town. There are many Greek tavernas with seafood and local meat along with more elegant seafood restaurants. A couple of Italian cuisine options too. There is so much choice and the list of places below is by no means exhaustive! Note that in terms of price point, Spetses sits somewhere in between Mykonos / Santorini and the rest of the islands. Nevertheless, you can still find affordable options -just check the menu before you sit if you are on a tight budget.
For a more upscale dining experience in the Old Port, my top choices would be Tarsanas, Liotrivi and Orloff. All of them are situated on the waterfront in quite unique locations. Tarsanas used to be an old shipyard. Liotrivi is located in a 300-year-old olive press built on its own private pier. Orloff is opposite the marina in a perfect location for passeggiata! All three restaurants serve Greek or Mediterranean plates with emphasis on fresh fish and seafood. We enjoyed our meals tremendously in all of them; prices are above average.
Towards the north side of the town, we really enjoyed our dinner at Nero Tis Agapis (Water of Love) which is owned by the people who own Tarsanas. In fact, they have their own fishing boats; they go out every day and supply their restaurants and the local fish market.
In high summer and weekends, you should definitely book a table to all of the above mentioned restaurants. Calling the day before should be enough -they speak English.
From the many tavernas in town, we particularly enjoyed our more affordable meal in Kapelogiannis, where we had plenty of mezedes (tapas) and local wine on the seaside.
TOP TIP -SPETSES’ MUST TRY RECIPE:
Spetses’ local recipe is fish ‘a la Spetsiota’, which is white fish cooked in the oven with tomato sauce. This is a very beloved recipe which is reproduced throughout the whole of Greece. Nevertheless, when in Spetses, well, you have to try it! It is really tasty and quite healthy.
HOW MANY DAYS SHOULD I STAY IN SPETSES?
Due to its close proximity to Athens, you can visit for a weekend, especially if you are primarily visiting Athens and / or if it is winter / early spring / late autumn.
However, I have visited Spetses four times now and I am always tempted to go back. The island is lively enough to keep you entertained for many days. If you wish to relax, slow down and slip into the blissful pace of island life, stay for a week… or more.
HOW TO GET TO SPETSES? ISLAND HOPPING TIPS & ITINERARIES
Spetses is only a short hydrofoil ride away (about 2.5-3h) from Athens’ main port, Piraeus, on the same route as Hydra island. There are several boats throughout the day every day during the summer, but I would recommend booking in advance.
ISLAND HOPPING: HYDRA & SPETSES CLASSIC COMBO
Spetses and Hydra are less than an hour apart. So, you can pop to Hydra for a day visit if you are short on time. I have to say though that, in my opinion, it is worth staying in Hydra for longer than a day.
READ MORE:
Travelling to the Greek islands -How to book ferries & flights
Travelling to the Greek islands -Athens airport & ports FAQs
Our trip from London to Hydra & Spetses:
We travelled from London to Hydra and Spetses on a 9-day holiday: 5 days of annual leave + 2 weekends. Our stay was equally split between the two islands.
We flew from London to Athens on a Friday evening flight (both British Airways and Aegean Airlines offer one). We arrived in Athens at around 3-4am -tiring, I know. However, the airport in Athens does not shut down during the night, so we spent a few hours in a bakery there. We then took a taxi to Piraeus (about 45min) where we got on the morning hydrofoil to Hydra. On the way back, we took a midday hydrofoil from Spetses to Athens and an evening flight back to London. Sounds complicated but it really is not too bad. The moment you step foot on the island, you will be instantly rejuvanated!
SPETSES / HYDRA + PELOPONNESE PENINSULA ROAD TRIP
Lastly, another great idea is to combine Spetses (and Hydra) with a road trip to the Peloponnese peninsula.
Starting from Athens, drive over the Isthmus of Corinth (Corinth canal), visit the ancient theatre of Epidavros and then take the boat to Hydra from Ermioni (where you will have to leave the car) or to Spetses from Kosta. Once you are back on the mainland, explore the historical city of Nafplion for a day or two. On your way back to Athens make sure to pop to the archaeological site of Mycanae. A road trip for culture vultures!
…AND SOME IDEAS FOR LUXURY TRAVELLERS
For those of you fancying a bit more decadence… Infamous Nikki Beach resort as well as illustrious Amanzoe are located near Porto Heli, on the mainland, just opposite Spetses.
Best suited for:
JETSETTERS | HISTORY BUFFS | FOODIES | BEACH BUMS | YACHTIES
- Stay on each island as long as you like.
- You can reverse the route or skip / add islands.
- Itinerary easily done with public ferries.
(click on the itinerary to enlarge)
Best suited for:
JETSETTERS | HISTORY BUFFS | FOODIES
- Stay on each location as long as you like.
- You can reverse the route or skip / add locations.
- Itinerary easily done with public ferries & a rented car
(click on the itinerary to enlarge)
FINAL THOUGHTS -WHY VISIT SPETSES?
My innate travel bug does not allow me to visit the same Greek island every summer. Yet when researching my next destination I always think, why don’t I just go to Spetses again? And I have done so, four times now! Every time I go, I secretly hope that one day I will be able to buy a house and live there for half the year… I love this island, and I am sure that no matter your age and traveling preferences, once you visit it, it will hold a special place in your heart too.
This is not a sponsored post & I am not affiliated with any of the hotels, restaurants or organisations mentioned.
A DEEP DIVE INTO GREECE
Looking for more travel guides for Greece? Or maybe just tips, inspiration and practical advice for effortless travel and authentic experiences? Hit the buttons below!
___
