A TRAVEL GUIDE TO TULUM, MEXICO [PART 4|4]
last updated: January 2024
If you are planning a trip to Tulum, Cancun or other locations in the Yucatan Peninsula, you have probably heard that a visit to a cenote or two (or five) is one of the main things to do. Indeed, you should definitely allow time to explore a few cenotes as they are a phenomenon unique to the area and make for quite an unforgettable experience.
During my trip to the Yucatan Peninsula, I stayed in Tulum for a week. It is the perfect base for exploring so many cenotes that it can actually be a little overwhelming! The beauty of ‘cenote hopping’ is that they differ so much to each other. We visited six cenotes (see map below) in about 3 days and I can’t wait to go back and visit more!
In this blog post, you’ll find my best tips for visiting Tulum cenotes, my experience from the ones we visited and, of course, my top recommendations for cenotes you shouldn’t miss.
TULUM HIGHLIGHTS
During our trip to Tulum, we visited six cenotes. Most of them are among the best ones in the wider Tulum area. Nevertheless, there is a ridiculous amount of cenotes around! The ones we visited were located quite conveniently close to each other:
- Cenote Jaguar, Nicte-Ha, Dos Ojos and Sac Actun are pretty much located along the same side road, just off Highway 307 that connects Tulum to Cancun. Nevertheless, visiting all of them in the same day might turn out to be a challenging task! Ultimately, it depends on how much time you want to spend on each one. I’d also recommend visiting Sac Actun with a guide.
- Cenote Calavera is located just outside of Tulum town and Zacil-Ha a bit further from that. They are both located along the road that leads to Coba and Valadolid. You can easily visit both in one morning or afternoon.
YUCATAN CENOTES 101
Mexico’s Yucatan Peninsula is not only famous for its Caribbean beaches, scrumptious food and Mayan ruins. There is a large subterranean world of rivers and groundwater pools naturally formed in the aquiferous limestone bedrock that lies underneath the surface of its incredible landscapes. Over thousands of years, the porous bedrock has collapsed, revealing natural swimming holes known as cenotes.
Cenote in Spanish means sinkhole, pit or well and derives from the Mayan word for sacred well. The Mayans revered cenotes and considered them as a portal to speak with the gods. More practically, they used them as a water source in dry times and built their villages in close proximity to them.
Sometimes completely open air, other times semi-open (caverns) or completely underground (caves), most cenotes have naturally filtered crystal clear fresh water and form a vast underground and underwater network of stunning natural beauty.
It is estimated that in the Yucatan peninsula there are around 6,000 cenotes. They are scattered close to the beach resorts of the Mayan riviera: Cancun, Playa del Carmen and Tulum. However, there are also many cenotes further inland, close to the ruins of Coba and Chichen Itza, as well as the beautiful town of Valadolid.
TOP 3 THINGS TO KNOW ABOUT CENOTES IN TULUM & YUCATAN
Accessibility: While many cenotes are now organised sights (with a modest entrance fee and basic amenities such as WCs, showers, etc) accessibility to each cenote differs depending on the local topography. While there are many cenotes that are easily accessible by almost anyone, some may require varying degrees of physical exertion and may not be suitable for young children. Do a bit of research before heading out!
Is the water cold? No, it is enjoyably refreshing!
Are they worth my time? Yes! Do visit as many cenotes in Tulum and the Yucatan as possible! They are something that you will not come across almost anywhere else in the world!
THINGS TO HAVE WITH YOU WHEN VISITING A CENOTE
- Bathing suit: I’d recommend having two. There may not be a comfortable place to sit around and wait to completely dry off.
- Towel.
- Flip flops or, even better, water shoes.
- Snorkelling gear (though you can rent it in most places).
- An underwater camera would really work a treat for unique underwater shots & videos.
- Biodegradable / eco-friendly sunscreen:
While I recommend this for daily use too, it’s even more critical here. Cenotes are semi-confined water systems (water circulation and renewal takes a long time) and the environment that surrounds them is fragile.
I wouldn’t recommend risking sunburn to anyone but I will also say this: When you are there, consider if you actually need to apply / re-apply your sunscreen before you go in the water (there’s usually showers when you can wash off and rinse off that mosquito repellent too!). Many cenotes are in complete shade due to heavy vegetation or topography. Also, most people stick around for less than an hour. They dive in the water (which is usually in the shade) once or twice and then come out, dry off and leave.
It was heartbreaking to see the water in cenote Calavera change consistency as more and more people visited only to have a photo taken, swim in the shade for 5 minutes and leave (while also leaving the oily residue of their sunscreen behind)…
Cenote Sac Actun, Tulum -the one you shouldn’t miss
I think Cenote Sac Actun was my favourite. Not only was the natural landscape incredible but our visit there was amongst my most memorable travelling experiences ever. Bold statement, but there, I said it!
There are so many reasons why visiting cenote Sac Actun is a mind-blowing experience. Sistema Sac Actun (from Spanish and Yucatec Mayan meaning ‘White Cave System’) as a whole underwater cave system was historically considered to be one of the longest in Latin America. However, in 2018 it was discovered to be connected to the Sistema Dos Ojos (that is to cenotes Dos Ojos). As of then, it is the longest known underwater cave system in the world!
It’s worth mentioning that the remains of a human female have been discovered in the cave. They are the oldest evidence of human habitation in this area to date. In addition to that, the remains of a mastodon and other animals have been found which gave the cenote the nickname ‘Pet Cemetery’. Impressive right?
A TOUR FOR THOSE WHO DON’T LIKE TOURS
My boyfriend and I visited this cenote as part of a private afternoon guided tour of three Tulum cenotes; cenote Jaguar, cenote Nicte-Ha and cenote Sac Actun. The great thing about the tour we selected was that we were able to get into Sac Actun just after general closing time. And guess what? We had the cenote all to ourselves! If you are able to find a tour like that, it’s definitely worth it. (Our tour was organised by Smiling Tulum but it seems that they have recently changed their scope of business to scuba diving only…).
Nevertheless, even if you are visiting during the day, I’d recommend getting a private or small group guided tour as the cave network is dark and fairly long (we were in there for 1h or so). A guide will also provide you with torches, a wetsuit and even a life jacket to float easily. The water is not cold but after an hour of walking around in shallow water or floating around, you will be happy that you have something more substantial on that just your bathing suit!
AN EXPERIENCE TO REMEMBER
We arrived in cenote Sac Actun around 5pm (closing time) and we were alone. The most beautiful blue birds greeted us in the entrance of the cave as we dived into the turquoise milky water.
INTO ALADDIN’S CAVE…
We started walking in the shallow water and after a while we came across the most beautiful site. The narrow cave opened up into a wide circular space in the middle of which there was a tiny island. One single tree was popping its head to to the outside world through a hole in the ceiling of the cave! If I saw this jaw dropping scene in a film I would be certain that it was a fake. Come to think of it, how come we have not seen this place in a Hollywood film yet?
After admiring the tiny island, we put our masks on and snorkelled our way through the milky turquoise water. There were chambers after chambers of underwater and overwater white stalagmites and stalactites so intricate as if you have taken the roof of a gothic church and turned it upside down and inside out. We were alone, just us and our guide and a few small fresh water lobsters swimming quietly in the darkness which was interrupted only in the places we pointed our torches to. The beautiful silence was broken only by the gentle lapping of the water and some commentary by our guide. We were too much in awe to speak.
SITTING IN COMPLETE DARKNESS…
As we went further and further into the caves, the ceiling became lower and at some point our guide said that we are about to go into the black chamber. We went in through a narrow passage and then the cave opened up into a more comfortable size. We sat on some rocks and our guide said: we will turn off our torches for one minute and stay silent. Have you ever experienced darkness so deep that you feel like your eyes are closed even when they are wide open? Absolute and complete darkness! What an incredible privilege it is to experience total darkness in a time where there is artificial light anytime and everywhere…
All in all, cenote Sac Actun is a must-see. If you only have time for one cenote, I’d wholeheartedly recommend this one.
CENOTE SAC ACTUN | BASIC INFO & ACCESS
Cenote Sac Actun is about a 40min drive from Tulum. It is located at the end of the side road where Cenote Dos Ojos, Nicte-Ha and Jaguar (more on those below) are also located, just off Highway 307 that connects Tulum to Cancun.
We visited Cenote Sac Actun as part of a private guided cenotes tour. However, I believe that you can visit the cenote by yourself (it is an organised site and there is an entrance fee) and reach the small island on your own quite easily. There are a few timber steps in the beginning of the cenote. I am not sure how far inside the cenote one can go on their own though. The cave network is dark and fairly long (we were in there for 1h or so). So, I’d definitely recommend getting a guide.
CENOTE SAC ACTUN | CLAUSTROPHOBIA ALERT
There are quite a few caves where the ceiling height is quite low. You never have to dive into another cave though. There is always air above your head but there were a lot of narrow corridors, pointy edges and rocks less than a meter over your head.
Fortunately, even though it gets more restricted the further you go in, it is not a one way route. You don’t have to go through the narrow bits to come out at the other end and if you feel really claustrophobic you could stay towards the outer caves. Our guide kept asking us if we felt ok and even though in my everyday life I consciously avoid really small elevators I didn’t feel uncomfortable at any point. However, I do think that some people may feel uneasy.
Cenotes Dos Ojos, Tulum -the one for snorkelling
Cenotes Dos Ojos (which means two eyes in Spanish) were recommended to us by friends who visited Tulum before us and they were the first cenotes we visited. We were fresh off the plane, not really sure what to expect. I will not forget the moment I first saw that crystal clear water in shades of turquoise and sapphire blue and the beauty of the cavernous landscape.
DON’T LEAVE WITHOUT SNORKELLING!
At first, we swam around for about half an hour, enjoying the freshness of the water along with its beautiful colour and clarity which also enabled us to see that there isn’t any fish. So when my boyfriend stated that he is going to rent a snorkel, I casually stated that I am not that bothered. You see, he snorkels everywhere even when there is nothing to see! Nevertheless, there were many people snorkelling around me so, the moment he came back from the rental hut, I let my curiosity get the better of me. I kindly grabbed his mask and said I will only be 5 mins…
An hour later, and after renting my own snorkel, we were still in awe of the incredible underwater landscape. There were stalagmites and stalactites everywhere. Even the larger pieces of rock were moulded into statues that looked like they belong to a Henry Moore exhibition! In the distance, in the deeper, narrower, darker parts of the cenote, where only scuba divers could go following a guide and a lifeline, we could just about get a glimpse of even more incredible caves and rock formations wherever a diver shone their light onto.
All in all, beautiful on the outside and stunning on the inside, Cenotes Dos Ojos are another must-see when visiting Tulum! I should clarify that as their name suggests, there are in fact two cenotes located quite very close to each other. They look fairly similar and as such, they are both wonderful.
CENOTES DOS OJOS | BASIC INFO
Cenotes Dos Ojos is an organised site that consists of two cenotes, approximately a 30min drive from Tulum. It is located just before Sac Actun on the same side road as Nicte-Ha and Jaguar (more on those below), just off Highway 307 that connects Tulum to Cancun.
There’s an entrance fee of 200 pesos per person (approx $14) (at the time of writing). There are bathrooms, lockers and huts for renting snorkelling equipment.
While it is very popular with swimmers, Cenotes Dos Ojos is a prime scuba diving site. No one from my group dives so we didn’t look into it but it’s worth checking out if you do. If you are just a swimmer, like us, do not leave Dos Ojos without snorkelling, it is an amazing experience!
CENOTES DOS OJOS | ACCESS TO THE WATER
Both cenotes can be accessed by going down a few steps and into the water -super easy.
CENOTES DOS OJOS | WAS IT CROWDED?
It was busy. However, we swam and snorkelled comfortably for over an hour and were able to get nice photos as well.
CENOTES DOS OJOS | TOP TIP
Near the two cenotes there is another small sinkhole, more like a pond. Unlike the two main cenotes, this one had vegetation and was murkier. I’d be happy not going in but peer pressure is a wonderful thing… Everyone in my group was super excited because there was a turtle there (and no people). So, in we go. As we came out, we overheard one of the guides advising people not to go in as there are snakes in there occasionally… Whoops!
Cenote Jaguar, Tulum -the one with the zip line & the mangrove
Cenote Jaguar does not have crystal clear turquoise water or a dramatic landscape like others do. It is completely open with loads of vegetation. In fact, it looks more like a small tropical lake. There is a big mangrove in the middle and plenty of fish which provide quite an interesting snorkelling experience. In essence, while snorkelling in cenote Jaguar we saw life, whereas Dos Ojos and Sac Actun seem frozen in time.
Feeling playful? Time to zip line across the cenote! If you have never zip lined before (this was my first time), you can definitely start with this one. The distance and height are not that great so the scare factor is quite moderate. If you still feel adventurous, there are the two platforms from which you can safely jump into some very deep water. A word of caution: they are very high!
All in all, if you love nature and adventure activities, you will definitely enjoy cenote Jaguar.
CENOTE JAGUAR | BASIC INFO
We visited cenote Jaguar as part of a guided Tulum cenotes tour. However, you can easily visit on your own. Cenote Jaguar is an organised site (with a modest entrance fee) approximately a 20min drive from Tulum on the way to Dos Ojos and Sac Actun and right before Nicte-Ha (more on that below), just off Highway 307 that connects Tulum to Cancun.
CENOTE JAGUAR | ACCESS TO THE WATER
There are timber steps into the cenote –super easy. There are also two quite high diving platforms if that’s your cup of tea.
CENOTE JAGUAR | WAS IT CROWDED?
We visited an hour or so before closing time and it was not crowded at all.
Cenote Nicte-Ha, Tulum –the one with all the fish
Cenote Nicte-Ha is an open air cenote with beautiful underwater flora and colourful fish. The wow factor is a bit lower than Sac Actun, Dos Ojos, Jaguar and Calavera (more on that below). However, the greenery (both inside and outside of the water) and considerable amount of fish make for quite the relaxing visit. We splashed around for a bit, snorkelled for a bit and ticked it off our list!
All in all, cenote Nicte-Ha was nice but not unmissable. Nevertheless, I’d recommend visiting if you are nearby. In fact, it is really close to Cenote Jaguar and Dos Ojos so, if you are there, you might as well pop by. Also, if you have young children, cenote Nicte-Ha is a good choice. Access is very easy, there were a lot of facilities around and plenty of fish to marvel at!
CENOTE NICTE-HA | BASIC INFO
We visited cenote Nicte-Ha as part of a guided Tulum cenotes tour. However, you can easily visit on your own. It is an organised site (with a modest entrance fee and basic amenities) about a 20min drive from Tulum, on the way to Dos Ojos and Sac Actun and right after Jaguar, off Highway 307 that connects Tulum to Cancun.
CENOTE NICTE-HA | ACCESS TO THE WATER
There are timber steps into the cenote –super easy.
CENOTE NICTE-HA | WAS IT CROWDED?
We visited an hour or so before closing time and it was fairly busy.
Cenote Calavera, Tulum -the one for having fun!
Cenote Calavera is completely different to Dos Ojos or Sac Actun. They are all about the beauty of the landscape, whereas Calavera is about being in the jungle and having fun!
For me, cenote Calavera is the definition of a sinkhole. As such, the best and easiest way in is to jump! The dive is really not hard. It’s high enough to make the jump exciting but low enough that everyone who can swim competently can do it. The water is 4m / 13ft deep and dark green but pretty clear.
After you jump in you can swim around in the cavernous area for a bit. Make sure to have one of your travel buddies who is still outside to take a photos of you from one of the two smaller holes in the ceiling of the cave. This intricate topography gave the cenote its name; Calavera in Spanish means skull!
All in all, we had so much fun in cenote Calavera and the landscape is truly unique. I’d definitely recommend it to everyone who is in the mood for the gentlest of adventures!
CENOTE CALAVERA | BASIC INFO
Cenote Calavera is an organised site about a 10min drive from Tulum on the way to Coba and Valladolid. There is an entrance fee of 100 pesos per person (approx $5) (at the time of writing).
As I mentioned above, no one from my group is a diver but the cenote is quite an interesting scuba diving site. Despite the fact that the open and semi-open part is really small, underwater and underground, the network of caves is really intricate. While we were there, there were plenty of divers hovering over the bottom of the cenote and continuing into the network of caves that were inaccessible from the surface. Freaky!
CENOTE CALAVERA | ACCESS TO THE WATER
I’d recommend jumping in rather than using the ladder intended for getting out. The steps are a bit slippery and quite far apart from each other making it sort of ok to go up but quite tricky to go down.
This cenote is literally a hole in the ground with rocks and vegetation all around. While this definitely adds to the charm and ups that Indiana Jones factor, it can be a bit tricky to walk around.
CENOTE CALAVERA | WAS IT CROWDED?
We stayed there for about two hours and it was pretty busy most of the time. After all, this cenote is super close to Tulum town. We did get the odd 15min window of peace and relaxation but I’d suggested visiting early in the morning or late in the afternoon.
Cenote Zacil-Ha, Tulum -the one that looks like a swimming pool
While being on a high from jumping in, coming out, jumping in and coming out in cenote Calavera, we decided to visit another cenote. We hailed a taxi to cenote Zacil-Ha. It was nearby and looked amazing on Instagram.
In cenote Zacil-Ha, the water is so turquoise and crystal clear that it looks like a man made pool. For that reason, however, it was so crowded that we didn’t even go in. We just took a photo and left…
Luckily, the lady at the entrance kindly warned us prior to paying the entry fee. She even allowed us to have a look before cutting our tickets. Now that is hospitality, well done Mexico!
All in all, I feel that there are other cenotes in Tulum more worthy of your time. Zacil-Ha was incredibly busy and, also, built up. However, as many cenotes are not very child friendly, you may want to consider visiting early in the morning if you have young children. They will enjoy the turquoise water and there are many facilities and benches to sit around and rest.
CENOTE ZACIL-HA | BASIC INFO
Cenote Zacil-Ha is an organised site about a 15min drive from Tulum, on the way to Coba and Valladolid (a bit further from Cenote Calavera). There is an entrance fee of 80 pesos per person (less than $5) (at the time of writing). There are all sorts of facilities including places to rest and picnic as well as a tiny zip line over the cenote.
CENOTE ZACIL-HA | ACCESS TO THE WATER
Through timber steps. Easy.
CENOTE ZACIL-HA | WAS IT CROWDED?
As I mentioned above, it was super crowded.
Have you visited the Tulum cenotes I talk about? How was your experience? Would you recommend any cenotes in Tulum? Would love to read your comments! Make sure you read my other blogposts from our trip to the Yucatan Peninsula! Enjoy!
This is not a sponsored post & I am not affiliated with any of the hotels, restaurants or organisations mentioned.
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Great article!Nice videos!
Thanks! Glad you liked it!